Post by: Pegasus on March 31, 2012, 10:54:56 am
I almost had a gold notchback as my first car but it was sold out from under me 7 years ago and I've been wanting one ever since. I found this for $600, the owner claimed the only problem was what sounded exactly like the TCC solenoid, but sitting outside for 2 years didn't do it any favors.
Post by: jwrape on March 31, 2012, 11:20:31 am
Post by: Fierofool on March 31, 2012, 01:58:21 pm
Is the car running, or do you need anything?
Post by: Spartanzz on March 31, 2012, 03:02:17 pm
Post by: Pegasus on March 31, 2012, 03:12:33 pm
So far, all I've done is replaced the seats (no more speakers), changed the oil, and cleaned out 10 lbs. of pine straw.
I already have a new TCC solenoid, and salvaged the seats, trim panels for speakers behind the seats, headliner, trim bezels, third taillight, and an aux. gauge cluster from a fastback.
There was some wiring im going to need help on for sure, including the cooling fan only runs by a toggle switch on the center console.
I live in Carrollton, but the Fiero is stuck in Bremen until i can get it to run.
Post by: Spartanzz on March 31, 2012, 03:23:22 pm
Post by: Fierofool on March 31, 2012, 05:25:32 pm
When you turn on the ignition, can you hear the fuel pump run or the relay click? The relay on the 85 is between the air filter canister and the driver's back. Looking into the engine bay with the filter canister removed, there are 2 identical relays bolted to the fire wall. The one to the right is the fuel pump relay. Put your fingers on it and have someone turn the ignition to the ON position. You should feel it click if it's good. If not, swap the two relays and see if the other one clicks. If not, check the Fuel Pump fuse. If the fuse is good, apply power to either of the terminals of the harness that's attached to the side of the deck lid hinge. The pump should run. Also, you can apply power to the B terminal of the fuel pump relay. The pump should run. If not, the fuel pump or circuit is bad.
Second, B Pillar speakers:
The 85 isn't built to accept B pillar speakers. There is a recess in 86 and later B pillars. That recess is absent in the 84 and 85 chassis. If you must have speakers up there, small surface mounted speakers set on the ledge against the window and B Pillar would work.
Third, Third Brake Light:
The 84 and 85 isn't wired for a 3rd brake light. I'm not even sure that the space frame has the tapped screw holes to bolt it up.
Fourth, Pine Straw:
One place commonly overlooked and the result of more fires in cars that have been parked is the heater/ac ballast. It's located just to the passenger side of the receiver-dryer and the coil inserts into the intake air duct. It has a 4 wire harness and is held in place by 2 screws. This ballast heats red hot when activated and it's a favorite place for mice to build their nests and it's a good hanging point for leaves and debris. Remove it and clean the area thoroughly.
Fifth, Service Manual:
Get yourself the biggest thickest Haynes Manual you can find, not the smaller hand book version. It will prove to be valuable throughout the duration of your Fiero ownership.
Post by: TopNotch on April 01, 2012, 07:59:54 am
Post by: Pegasus on April 01, 2012, 10:45:57 am
I know the third brake light wired, but i like the look, and want to try to put it in, would it be too much work?
I hadn't decided whether to do the pillar speakers or behind the seats, but i guess that makes that easier.
The car came with a Haynes manual with the '88 section, which i assume is the thick one?
Also, it came with a new water pump and an extra intake if I need to make a trade for parts.
Thanks for the heads up on the ballast, Ill do that right away.
Post by: TopNotch on April 01, 2012, 12:56:08 pm
Post by: Fierofool on April 01, 2012, 02:40:12 pm
You would need to feed a wire from underneath the dash, either through the console, across to the side and up and over to the 3rd brake light, or remove the headliner and run it through there. You may still be able to find one that suction cups to the back window because as I said, I don't believe there's provisions to attach it into the roof.
I'd check the fuel pump fuse and all fuses first, then the relay. If the system is holding good pressure, you may only hear the click the first time the ignition is turned on.
Depending upon how tall you are, speakers mounted on the back wall might interfere with the seat reclining. The tweeters high frequency response would be asorbed if pointed at the back of the seats. The 86-88 B pillar speakers are pointed at the opposite sides of the car, near the back of your head. Inside, the B pillar mounting surface and plate are slightly angled forward, since high frequency is directional. In reality, this points them at the head of the person on the opposite side of the car.
You've got a few great people out your way. Aerodonamic is one of our resident mechanics. He's off Chapel Hill Road. Raydar is very knowledgeable of the Fiero and modifications. He's also in Douglasville, but on the North side of I-20. BristowB is up in the Dallas/Hiram area and he, too is pretty knowledgeable.
Post by: TopNotch on April 01, 2012, 05:06:58 pm
Post by: Pegasus on April 02, 2012, 09:36:23 am
Post by: Pegasus on April 02, 2012, 09:42:36 am
Post by: TopNotch on April 02, 2012, 10:46:07 am
Post by: Pegasus on April 02, 2012, 11:22:24 am
Post by: jwrape on April 03, 2012, 05:58:47 am
Post by: Pegasus on April 03, 2012, 10:51:24 am
Post by: jwrape on April 03, 2012, 11:02:22 am
After it left me stranded a couple times, I just put a switch beside the cigarette lighter that hot wires the fuel pump if ever the oil pressure sensor goes out again I won't be stranded again
Post by: Fierofool on April 03, 2012, 12:48:55 pm
Post by: jwrape on April 03, 2012, 12:50:52 pm
I'm not positive, but it may be possible for either the FP relay or the Oil Pressure Sensor to cause a short in the ECM. The primary FP circuit is through the relay. The FP circuit in the Oil Pressure Sensor is only a secondary system, designed to keep the car running should the primary circuit fail. It will activate the FP when it builds the required pressure during cranking. On older engines, this can sometimes lead to long cranking times. On faulty pressure sensors that show unusually high pressure or stay pegged when the engine isn't running may be sending voltage through the ECM at those times.
^^^^Yep, what he said^^^^^
Post by: 85GT on April 04, 2012, 02:19:51 am
Post by: Pegasus on April 04, 2012, 10:55:24 pm
Post by: Donster on April 05, 2012, 05:06:07 am
It's Alive! IT'S ALIVE!!!!
Awesome!
\D
Post by: Pegasus on April 09, 2012, 02:27:29 pm
Post by: Roger on April 09, 2012, 04:43:48 pm
You may want to check if you have vacuum at the resevoir first before bleeding the system.
Considering the age, it would be best to purge/bleed ALL of the old fluid with new.
As for flushing the cooling system due to over-heating, be sure you are familiar with purging the system of ALL air when re-filling. Also check both radiator caps for cracks in the seals and replace them (if bad).
A great place to have you cooling system cleaned is to contact SIMS RADIATOR in Lawrenceville. They do excellent work.
Post by: Fierofool on April 09, 2012, 05:58:23 pm
In case you don't know, you don't fill a Fiero at the Radiator. If the system's empty, you can fill the radiator until it's full, then put the cap on. Fill the recovery tank, then go to the engine bay and finish filling according to a special procedure, through the thermostat housing. When it comes time to refill, come back to this thread and someone will guide you through it.
Post by: Pegasus on April 09, 2012, 07:06:06 pm
Post by: Fierofool on April 09, 2012, 08:17:14 pm
Burping is pretty simple. Fill the radiator and recovery tank, remove the thermostat cap and thermostat and fill at the thermostat housing. Leave the thermostat out, put the cap on and let it run for 3-5 minutes. Remove the thermostat cap, top off, replace the thermostat and cap and you should be good to go.
Post by: Fierofool on April 11, 2012, 09:01:29 am
Post by: Pegasus on April 11, 2012, 10:52:36 am
I forgot to mention that I disconnected the TCC before my short test drive, but it was still dying when it came to a stop.
Post by: Pegasus on April 11, 2012, 11:25:27 pm
Still to go:
-Brakes
-Check engine light
-Cluster
-Cooling fan switch
-Headlights
-Tail Lights
-Side lights
-Turn/Hazard lights
-Misc. lights
Post by: Fierofool on April 12, 2012, 07:54:17 am
Check Engine Light--Retrieve the codes first thing. It will save you some times and words.
Brakes--It may be more economical to purchase a set of calipers, than to rebuild yours. Rebuilt calipers usually come with aluminum pistons and have a lifetime warranty.
Headlights--If the motors aren't working properly, I offer a rebuild service. $30 each plus parts.
Side, turn and hazard lights--Be sure all bulbs are good. A bad bulb in the front side marker or either turn signal can affect their operation.
Misc. Lights--Remove the bulb from the cigarette lighter and from inside the console, underneath the ash trays. They are useless and only create heat that causes the console or shift surround to buckle and come apart.
Post by: Donster on April 12, 2012, 08:25:32 am
You need to write a book for the rest of us dummies! ;D
\D
Post by: Pegasus on April 12, 2012, 03:16:28 pm
After doing the coolant, i drove it to the closest part store (Advanced) but they said they couldn't do OBDI. It got dark on the way back and I just happened to notice the only interior I could see was the speedo, and only barely.
I plan on using leds to cut down on the heat and current, red ones where I can. I pretty much have the whole look planed out for the interior and the color scheme inside and out, but I'm having some trouble deciding between a few designs.
Post by: TopNotch on April 12, 2012, 04:03:55 pm
Click here (http://www.fiero.nl/cgi-bin/main.cgi?ECMCodes) for more info.
Click here (http://gafiero.org/dimmer_fix.shtml) for more info about a dim dash light fix.
Edit: If you want to see how red leds look in the dash, check out my yellow car at night.
Post by: Fierofool on April 12, 2012, 05:48:20 pm
Donster sells some good ground cables that may also be of some benefit with the dim lights. Have you confirmed that the thumb wheel underneath the light switch is rolled upward? Roll it until you feel resistance. If you roll it beyond the resistance, it will click into an Interior Lights On position and if you have your doors open at the time, you might close up the car and drain the battery. So close your doors when you test it.,
Have you tried grabbing the round piece that surrounds the hazard light button and pulling real hard? The tendency is to press the button to make it release, but the Fiero hazard button doesn't work that way.
Post by: Pegasus on April 12, 2012, 09:37:10 pm
I accidentally pushed in the flashers when I first got the car. It has a screw in place of a button and pulls out easily. I was going dis assemble the steering column, but I guess I'll just get a bigger screw.
I spent a little time with MS Paint:
I'm set on storm grey metallic, but I can't decide whether or not to do it two tone or if I should paint the wing red. The red colors I'm looking at are Bright Red or Dark Cherry (metallic), any opinions?
Post by: Fierofool on April 12, 2012, 10:16:33 pm
Post by: Pegasus on April 12, 2012, 11:03:38 pm
Post by: Fierofool on April 12, 2012, 11:11:26 pm
Post by: TopNotch on April 13, 2012, 09:28:03 am
Just one thing about TopNotch's link to the ALDL and retrieving codes. The ALDL connector is used in several GM applications and is usually mounted underneath the dash in the position shown in the link. On the Fiero, it is mounted upside down, so the A and B terminals will be on the bottom row, passenger side of the ALDL.
I've heard that some Fieros are upside down, and some are not. But the A and B connectors are the only two that are right next to each other. Many connector positions in the connector are empty. So just make sure that you see two copper connectors next to each other, in either the top left or bottom right corner, and those will be the ones to use.
Post by: Pegasus on April 23, 2012, 08:16:43 am
In the mean time, I removed the old headliner, swapped in the 120 mph speedo and a new tach (which also isnt working), and blacked out all the hard plastic with krylon fusion. Does anyone have any product recommendations for the soft vinyl?
Post by: TopNotch on April 23, 2012, 09:47:43 am
Does anyone have any product recommendations for the soft vinyl?
If you're talking about paint, use Duplicolor Fabric and Vinyl Paint. You can get it at most auto parts stores.
Post by: Donster on April 23, 2012, 10:13:59 am
I'm going to do the waterfall behind the seats and carpet with that paint also.
\D
Post by: Pegasus on April 25, 2012, 06:14:34 am