Georgia Fiero Club Forum
All Things Fiero => Tech Tips, Tech Questions => Topic started by: MetalBlue85GT on April 11, 2013, 09:39:53 am
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Thanks for the tips - I got the top Ball joint to pop waiting on UPS now to finish that, and i got a OE like replacement, and flat side was up, got the lower control arm off and the metal sleeves out - I am reading on how to get the rubber out, I have the proper tools I believe, the same press that I pushed out the metal sleeve with. (borrowed from Advance auto) Anyone need the tool while I have it checked out ? ;D
I might just have the metal Blue car out on the road tomorrow for the alignment - Assuming I can get the spring back on.
Oh one tip - the steering rack is in the way to get the forward LCA bolt out - I was able to force by it without damaging the rubber I hope it goes in better. I may need a new bolt, this one was a little rusty and deteriated.
people like pictures:


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one more picture.
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Did you use the balljoint press to push out the control arm bushings? I rented one like that for the ball joints and found it to be almost useless for ball joints. Had to do a lot of rigging with 1 inch drive sockets to get it to work.
Glad it has some use other than ball joints.
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Yes i used that kit for the LCA Bushings. Its titled Ball joint and U joint service set. I cannot see how I would use that for ball joints unless it was for the lower balljoint then I see a way as long as it was off the car completely. It was Free to borrow from advanced of course with a credit deposit.
In the process, the rubber looked original and it pooped out with some force from that C Clamp with the outer sleeve attached. Then i used a differnt size 2" i think and push about four different areas of the rubber and then once down the middle and the rubber pushed out. I have most of it back together and I am looking up torque values. It was a little of a cursing party in here for a little while trying to get the LCA back in there. My strength was not helpful and the jack seemed to bind everything up. So finally i just started putting it all back together with spring and all and the spring seemed to help center everything so the bolts would go through. I will post a pick in a bit of the set and I bought Rodneys tool for the Ball joints - That did it; I was only changing the upper so I didnt have to popped the bottom just will have to reset torque.
Fun stuff - I may be able to align it tomorrow and come out Saturday. I cannot wait - I just put new front shocks on too.
Randy
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Here are the pics.
Anyone have an extra Tie Rod end laying around the head of the bolt stripped and a DIE did not fix it, it now just made it hard to tighten and so now the tie rod is spinning and I cannot get it torqued down.
I will order one tomorrow If I dont hear from anyone; they are nowhere in the stores.
That black lever is what i used to take off the Tie rod - Some how that or my hammering hit the tie rod.

This is what I used to keep the spring as loaded as i could.

This is the Ball joint remover I got from Rondeys.

Here is what stripped...
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Yes, I rented the tool in your first picture and I did the ball joints with the control arms on the car. Some of the adapters wouldn't fit up inside the control arm contours so I had to use some one inch drive sockets that I had to get in there and press on the ball joint.
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Yay! I unstripped the Tie Rod!!!! Progress...
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Project complete:
- R&R LCA bushings replaced with Poly (completed the work the previous owner started.)
- R&R the top left Ball joint.
- R&R front shocks with Monroe Sensa Trac.
- Greased the front end.
- R&R rear L and R side turn signals (Thanks Don for the Clip - it was the shorter of the two you gave me.)
I took the car to Tires plus on Wade Green and hickory grove and the alignement is great.
Went for a short ride and now to return all the tools...
... on the road again... 8)