Georgia Fiero Club Forum
All Things Fiero => General Fiero Discussion => Topic started by: WV Mike on February 21, 2015, 03:04:31 pm
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Took my Formula to Meineke to have a TH440/4T60 transmission put in. Rich, who own Meineke, has a couple of Fieros. He'll be putting it in sometime this coming week. I can't wait.
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Good luck. Sounds like he know what he's doing, though.
Is he doing it at shop rates? Or as a side job?
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Cool. Looking forward to seeing you again at a CSRA meeting.
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Still waiting to get the transmission put in. Rich contacted me and I'm needing some other parts which I thought he was going to get. But, I'm now going to get. I posted on Pennock's and am posting here for your guys help. Here is what I posted:
Hi Everyone,
I've got a TH440 transmission that I'm going to put into my 88 Formula to replace the TH125. I've done some reading and am wanting some input from you guys to be sure that I'm getting the other parts needed to install the transmission.
CV axles:
I found on http://snowcloude.com/~banner/FIERO-4T60.html that ones out of an 87 Pontiac 6000 part number 5257 and 5258 are supposed to work. I find on http://www.pontiacperformance.net/techarticles/4_speed_swap.html that Cardone part numbers 60-1078 and 60-1115 will work. Can anyone let me know if these part numbers are correct or if you have some others?
Transmission mounts:
I found http://www.fierofocus.com/Tech%20Tips/Pdf%27s/Tech/Automatic%20Overdrive%20Transmissions.pdf , It tells me that a 1992 Pontiac Bonneville (3800
vin L) work in Fiero applications, and the OE/stock Fiero rear transmission mount will work on the back of this transmission as long as you have the formed/stamped steel bracket from a donor Bonneville or like-bodied car that bolts to the left-rear of the transmission.
Am I missing anything else that I need? Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Mike
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I was going to try and go the Cars and Coffee in Augusta this morning, but this morning the Fiero wasn't idling right. Above 2K rpm the Fiero ran okay. Lower than that it would idle a few seconds a 1K rpm and then jump up to 1500 rpm and the engine would turn off. I checked the plug wires this morning and drove test it around the neighborhood. It was still doing the same thing. I removed the positive lead from battery hoping to reset the computer and that it might work. Drove it again and same thing was happening. Let the motor cool off and I was going to take off the intake manifold to check the vacuum lines. I had replaced the vacuum lines with the stainless steel ones from Rodney Dickmans. One of the lines was not connected. After reconnecting the vacuum line and reseting the computer, she was driving again until Ci Ci's pizza incident.
With having the 4T60 transmission in and working, I drove it today with the wife. We went to Ci Ci's pizza. mmm... After we ate, the car started up and we started to leave and it quit on me. Ugh, Charlie Brown. Called AAA and they gave us a 2 hour time frame. Wow, 2 hours for a tow truck. We waited about 45 minutes and I got the Fiero running. I think I may need to replace the TCC solenoid. The last TCC solenoid I had to replace in the TH125 tranmission was doing the same problem with not starting once it was hot or quitting on me while driving. I don't need to repeat this all over again with the 4T60 transmission after today.
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The TCC failure can be tested by simply disconnecting it. Normally, it will only kill the engine when the trans is pulled into gear. Revving and then dieing sounds like fuel starvation. The engine runs in a rich condition. By that I mean there's more fuel than it really needs. When it begins to run out of fuel, the air/fuel ratio actually reaches it's optimum and the engine will rev up. Try it with your lawn more if you have a fuel shutoff valve. With the mower running, close the valve and when the carb runs out of fuel, the engine will rev up quickly, then die.
With a higher vacuum demand on the regulator while the car is moving, it may be able to overcome some minor blockage in the fuel system. I'd check the fuel filter as a first suspect. I replaced one that was so blocked that when I removed the tank side filter line, back pressure blew fuel all over me. She had been driving it from the area of Atlanta Motor Speedway to Tennessee and North Carolina like that. It didn't have much power, but it would keep her moving.
I would also swap out the Ignition Control Module. They sometimes fail while sitting due to heat saturation. When they cool, the traces on the printed circuit make contact again and the car will start. If you're using the old distributor and module, that might be the problem. In any event, you need to carry a spare ICM at all times, plus a tube of Radio Shack Heat Sink Compound.