Georgia Fiero Club Forum
All Things Fiero => Tech Tips, Tech Questions => Topic started by: f85gtron on March 17, 2015, 09:04:50 am
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Ok. Project started. I've got:
7730
Complete wiring harness
Upgraded alternator
New starter (while I'm in there.....)
A couple stumbling blocks so far:
I found out AFTER the fact that it is MUCH easier to just repin the installed harness. I've purchased a repinned harness from a Pennocks member and went through it. I thought, "hey, piece of cake!"....accept, it's not. Removing the old harness and installing the new is more than just unplugging and plugging, I've had to remove the intake and middle intake to get the harness out and in, the 7730 mounting will be the next step. I would recommend just Repinning the existing harness! Live and learn.....
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Some say it's easier to just drop the cradle then you can sit down on your mechanic's stool and have everything easily accessible to incorporate the new harness into the old one. Hope you can get it done in time for the parade.
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It will be done. I've got the new harness in and started plugging up. The old alternator is already out, so i just need to install the new one. I'm over the hump.
Dropping the cradle would be alright, but by the time you've disconnected your coolant, fuel, brakes, cradle, i would say that, even using the swear indicator, snaking is easier, but the best alternative is Repinning.
I'm not complainin'........I'm just sayin'........
Ron
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Last night, got the starter installed, alternator installed, everything plugged up. Plugged up the ecm and jumped the aldl connector......good cel light and diagnostics mode. 3 twelves.
I heard the fuel pump relay click.
Something different about diagnostics mode on this one.....The radiator fan runs when on. Neat!
I'll finish it up tonight and drive it.
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Something different about diagnostics mode on this one.....The radiator fan runs when on. Neat!
That happens with the 88 duke Fiero (DIS ignition) also.
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Buttoned almost everything up tonight. Small setback though., the fuel pump relay clicked, but didn't close the circuit. Problem solved with a different relay.
Cranked it up, fired once, died. Fired again, died. Third time, i blipped the throttle and this time it held an incredibly smooth idle. Sounds different as well.
I only ran it for a minute because i need to double check and make sure the harness isn't making contact with anything. Waiting for daylight.
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Woke up early and finished buttoning everything up. Runs, drives good Around the block. I'll drive it into town in a little bit and see what's what. No shift light, though. It comes on with key on, with the rest of the lights, but won't indicate upshift. So far, if that's all the gremlins, I'm marking this one down as a success!
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Congratulations. How does it compare so far to the old ECM?
I don't think the later cars had the shift light, or the 7730 might have been from an automatic. If the function is there, it may be turned off.
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Drove to work good. Drove to soccer practice and it started to die at stops and hunting. Code 34. I have a backup map, so I'll throw it on in the morning.
The seller said the ecm was setup on a 4speed , but i think it was a 5speed because the shift light started coming on, but it also illuminates in my top gear, which is fourth.
I'll get through the parade then get sinister to do burn a new chip.
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Drove to the parade and back. Accelerates and cruises great, idles like crap. Was i supposed to swap the calpak from the original ecm over to this one?
Ron
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The 7730 as it comes from the donor car is all you need, other than tuned for your specific application. What are the symptoms of running like crap? Misfire? Rich exhaust? Skipping? Hunt idle?
I wanted to see your install while we were in Dublin, but forgot all about it.
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If it was not tuned, I'm surprised that it runs as decently as you say.
The 7730 is not optimized for the stock Fiero injectors. (If I overlooked something in the previous posts, my apologies...)
I would be inclined to replace them with a set of disc (multec) injectors. Seems like they came in everything EXCEPT the Fiero.
THEN it should be tuned.
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I bought it off a Pennocks member. It has a sinister chip in it that was tuned to a 3.4 . I'm sure that's where the problem lies. But Ryan from sinister said the original owner's tune may not be too far from what i need, so he recommended to run it and see what happens. Well, now I've seen what happens, so I'm going to see if Ryan can do a fresh chip.
Idling like crap = several hunting (oscillating) idle....to the point of quitting. It starts right back up immediately.
Hard to believe, but i haven't hooked to the aldl yet to see what it's doing exactly. So busy at work this week.
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If it was not tuned, I'm surprised that it runs as decently as you say.
The 7730 is not optimized for the stock Fiero injectors. (If I overlooked something in the previous posts, my apologies...)
I would be inclined to replace them with a set of disc (multec) injectors. Seems like they came in everything EXCEPT the Fiero.
THEN it should be tuned.
I didn't even think about the injectors.
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Raydar has a point that Rochester Multecs were originally used with that ECM, but it can also efficiently run the pintel injectors. The problem may be that your tune is for the 17# injectors whereas they would be too rich. Maybe a retune for 15# injectors would be in order. The ECM may be trying to lean the mixture so it stalls, then it kicks the pulse width and it revs up again. Since you've been in touch with Ryan about the ECM, ask him if he can tune it for the original 15# injectors before dropping the bucks for new injectors. If you find you need new injectors, I suggest Fuel Injector Connection in Cumming, Ga. They can provide you with what you need in a rebuilt and custom flow, and all flow matched for usually less than $150 for 6.
Because I'm still running my stock ECM, I needed 17# pintel injectors. They provided me with a set of 17# BMW pintels for $90. But that was 5 years ago.
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I bought it off a Pennocks member. It has a sinister chip in it that was tuned to a 3.4 . I'm sure that's where the problem lies. But Ryan from sinister said the original owner's tune may not be too far from what i need, so he recommended to run it and see what happens. Well, now I've seen what happens, so I'm going to see if Ryan can do a fresh chip.
Idling like crap = several hunting (oscillating) idle....to the point of quitting. It starts right back up immediately.
Hard to believe, but i haven't hooked to the aldl yet to see what it's doing exactly. So busy at work this week.
If it was tuned to a 3.4, the 3.4 was probably running 17# injectors.
If you're running a 2.8 with 15# injectors, you ought to at least be close. VERY close - with that "multec/disc" provision.
I disagree that it will run fine with pintle type injectors. It's really a crapshoot. It might, or might not. More than likely not. IMHO, of course. ;)
Regarding the ALDL scan... If you monitor your operating parameters, you should see the closed loop BLM running 128, or within a couple of points of that. If it's mostly good, but off only at idle, I would try changing injectors first.
Generally, if the number is significantly less than 128 (120 should be the minimum) the ECM is attempting to remove fuel. If the number is significantly higher, the ECM is attempting to add fuel. (I forget where it maxes out. I've changed it in a few cars, to allow the ECM to compensate for "too small" injectors.)
Edit - I saw your post on Pennocks, where Ryan answered. I posed my "injector" theory to him, as well.
If he says I'm off base, I'll bow to his experience. He's been doing this a LONG time.
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I bought it off a Pennocks member. It has a sinister chip in it that was tuned to a 3.4 . I'm sure that's where the problem lies. But Ryan from sinister said the original owner's tune may not be too far from what i need, so he recommended to run it and see what happens. Well, now I've seen what happens, so I'm going to see if Ryan can do a fresh chip.
Idling like crap = several hunting (oscillating) idle....to the point of quitting. It starts right back up immediately.
Hard to believe, but i haven't hooked to the aldl yet to see what it's doing exactly. So busy at work this week.
I disagree that it will run fine with pintle type injectors. It's really a crapshoot. It might, or might not. More than likely not. IMHO, of course. ;)
I wasn't positive. That's why I suggested consulting Ryan, too. You've been playing with this stuff lots longer than me and much deeply involved.
If I recall correctly, the number you quoted me for the BLM high point was around 156 when maxed out?
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I saw Ryan's reply on PFF and it looks like he feels the pintel injectors are OK with the 7730. Maybe a retune of the ECM for the 2.8 and any mods you've made.
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I've submitted a service request for a chip burn, based on my rig. Three shift light is making me mad anyway. Plus, i was thinking that i might as well start fresh, then I'll know what I'm dealing with.
I tried to hook to the aldl, but couldn't get data. Do i need a resistor, or some kind of trigger to get data flowing?
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I saw Ryan's reply, too.
I think you are on the right track by having him build you a new tune, based on exactly what you're running.
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Shift lights are for easy drivers. Drive by ear and the seat of your pants. Those two will speak to you without having to take your eye off the road. Pull the panel face plate and put a piece of black tape over it. When you're autocrossing you don't have time to look at the shift light. :)
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Ha ha. I just wanted it to work correctly. I'm a stickler for details. Everything, in my hands, gets PAINFULLY refined.
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A lot of us have always thought our 85GT's needed another gear. Maybe it's a subliminal message?
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You read my mind! That's EXACTLY what i was thinking every time it illuminated....."If only I could shift ONE more time!"....
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The new chip from sinister is in.......and........IT'S PERFECT! No more hunting, throttle is fast, smooth, and predictable. I only had a couple hiccups where the p.o. of the harness i bought had spliced the fuel pump circuit monitor wire to ignition. The 7730 didn't like that. So i wired it correctly to the fuel pump command wire and its happy now. The other was that there was no original prom installed on the moates adapter to accommodate limp mode. I placed the sinister chip that came with the ecm in that spot and installed my new sinister chip in the main spot.
No codes, runs smooth. If you let out the clutch a little, it will nudge the throttle up to accommodate the load. You can do this pretty quickly, like in a backing situation, and it won't let the motor die. I'm impressed.
I have to say that my favorite part is startup, just a small flare and then settles down.
Even highway running is smoother. Very nice.
Ron
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The little throttle nudge may be a function of the automatic transmission programming.
So, now, are you ready to do your first for-somebody-else conversion?
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The new chip from sinister is in.......and........IT'S PERFECT!
...I'm impressed.
Good. I really would have expected it to be very close.
Perfect is even better. :D
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I'm ready to tackle another one..
Perfect is what my seat of pants tells me, but i haven't been able to get tuner pro rt to hook up and read yet. I'm confused by all the different file types and there uses. My cable is hooking up, showed power, tx and rx, but nothing on the tuner dash.
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Oops! Spoke too soon....got a 24 vss code today. Need to check my soldering......
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Turns out, I egged out a couple terminals when plugging and unplugging the ecm sockets repeatedly in my ocd fit. I just removed all pins and reformed them back to original. All is well. I can see data with my new contraption I've pieced together and have to adjust a couple items. The iac was at 0 steps, with no vacuum leaks, so I'll adjust the throttle plate stop and tps later, then do an iac reset. Almost finished!
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Iac reset is different than stock. I did this on accident, before i read this procedure:
1. Remove battery power for one (1) minute. Restore battery power and place air conditioning controls (if equipped) in the "off" position.
2. Firmly apply the parking brake and block the drive wheels. Start the engine, shift the transmission to drive for automatics and neutral for manuals.
3. Allow the engine to run until the engine cooling fan has cycled once, or a maximum of 10 minutes.
4. Turn the ignition key to the "off" position for at least 5 seconds.
5. Repeat Step 2.
6. Allow the engine to run for at least five (5) minutes.
The correct IACV values for proper idle control will now be stored.
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Prepping the lim for the 7730 is not really necessary, but if you ever have to get at it for some reason, you can remove some things to clean up that mess!
Csi delete.....won't be needing that anymore!
7/8" freeze plug hammered in...

No more csi switch and fan switch! The ecm controls both functions, so these can go!........