Post by: Raydar on April 24, 2016, 05:25:05 pm
It looks like it might be the crank seal on the "pulley end" of the engine, but there's lots of oil elsewhere, too. The pan bolts seem tight. Haven't tried the timing cover bolts yet, because the pulley is in the way, anyway. Looks like there are bolts behind it, too.
No noticeable oil on the back of the flywheel, so I have to believe the cam plug (cap?) is okay. The lifter access covers don't seem to be leaking, either.
The axle seals also appear to be fine.
The valve cover gasket will be changed. Just because.
It's been over ten years since I owned a Duke. Where are the "typical" places that leak? (This one has ~150K on the odo.)
Dropping the cradle is not really an option at this time. Can the pulley be removed with the engine and cradle in place? Or do I have to tilt the cradle?
Thanks!
Post by: Fierofool on April 24, 2016, 09:53:09 pm
The L'il Duke Coupe, when we got it had 166K and was leaking on the front side of the valve cover. Some was going on the exhaust manifold but a lot was running all the way to the pan. Had it not been for the smoke I wouldn't have easily found it. It had been 'fixed' with at least a full tube of RTV. A garage had to 'fix' it because the original owner said he never worked on it. FelPro solved it.
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Post by: TopNotch on April 24, 2016, 10:04:05 pm
Can the pulley be removed with the engine and cradle in place? Or do I have to tilt the cradle?
Thanks!
It takes a lot of torque to remove the pulley bolt on a duke. If you can figure out a way to keep the pulley from turning while you apply torque, you may be albe to remove it in the car.
Post by: Raydar on April 24, 2016, 10:23:05 pm
It takes a lot of torque to remove the pulley bolt on a duke. If you can figure out a way to keep the pulley from turning while you apply torque, you may be albe to remove it in the car.
Put it in gear? (It's a manual.) Use an impact wrench? I have one of those 200+ ft.lb. electric impacts. Works great for removing lug nuts that have been "gorilla'd" into place. Although I think I've heard people say that it's not a good idea, I don't see what harm it would do.
Post by: Raydar on April 25, 2016, 06:04:52 am
Copied from Pennocks for our Georgia members:
The L'il Duke Coupe, when we got it had 166K and was leaking on the front side of the valve cover. FelPro solved it.
Thanks Charlie! I'm hoping that I'll get lucky and that will be my only leak.
Looks like I can get to the timing cover bolts without removing the pulley. (My pulley has a flat face with three unthreaded holes in it. Doesn't look like the typical pulley. I dunno...)
Post by: TopNotch on April 25, 2016, 09:49:33 am
Put it in gear? (It's a manual.) Use an impact wrench? I have one of those 200+ ft.lb. electric impacts. Works great for removing lug nuts that have been "gorilla'd" into place. Although I think I've heard people say that it's not a good idea, I don't see what harm it would do.
You should never use an impact wrench on any bolt on the crank of a duke (either the pulley bolt, or flywheel bolts on the other end). You stand a good chance of ruining the fiber timing gear if you do.
Post by: TopNotch on April 25, 2016, 09:57:43 am
(My pulley has a flat face with three unthreaded holes in it. Doesn't look like the typical pulley. I dunno...)
Most dukes came with just a pulley on the crank, not a damper. You can, however, get a damper made for the duke, to replace the pulley. Supposedly it will protect your crank if you modify your duke for more power and higher RPM's. I put a damper on mine.
Post by: Raydar on April 25, 2016, 11:09:16 am
Put it in gear? (It's a manual.) Use an impact wrench? I have one of those 200+ ft.lb. electric impacts. Works great for removing lug nuts that have been "gorilla'd" into place. Although I think I've heard people say that it's not a good idea, I don't see what harm it would do.
You should never use an impact wrench on any bolt on the crank of a duke (either the pulley bolt, or flywheel bolts on the other end). You stand a good chance of ruining the fiber timing gear if you do.
Ok. After I posted that, I read some other stuff that alluded to the same thing. Thanks for that. Much appreciated.
I'll try to post up some pics of my pulley. Maybe you can identify what I'm looking at. A quick glance looks like there is a rubber "interface" between the pulley ring and the center hub. Maybe I do have a damper, after all.
Post by: Raydar on September 04, 2016, 07:15:40 pm
The good news is that it handles nicely. A lot like my other Formula, only a lot slower. A/C works nicely, too.
The bad news is that it still leaks like a sieve. Seems to be on the accessory end of the engine. It leaks badly enough that it's oiling the belt and making it slip. So, I'm thinking either a crank seal or a timing cover. No matter. Replacement procedure is the same, regardless, according to the FSM.
(There seems to be not much else that can leak, in that area. It's not the lifter cover or valve cover.)
Questions...
The FSM mentions a "centering tool", since the timing cover is apparently a "best guess" fit. Is there any reason I can't just use the pulley as a centering tool?
Also... The FSM says to remove the mount. Is that really necessary? Doesn't seem like it blocks anything, although it's been a while since I was under there.
As I mentioned, it's been a long time since I've done anything with a Duke.
I'll be most grateful for any useful suggestions.
Post by: Roger on September 04, 2016, 08:03:05 pm
Post by: Raydar on September 04, 2016, 08:35:56 pm
It was all a few bucks more than Rockauto, but it comes with Amazon's exemplary customer service.
Should all be here by next weekend.
And then the fun begins.
Actually, it's gonna be a while. We have the craft show next weekend, and then RFTH the weekend after. Unless I do evenings.
Post by: TopNotch on September 04, 2016, 09:40:45 pm
Roger -- it's a popular misconception that the duke is half a V8, but not true. Read this document (http://gafiero.akroncdnr.com/docs/IronDuke.pdf).
Post by: Raydar on September 06, 2016, 09:05:12 pm
Post by: Raydar on September 25, 2016, 02:32:18 pm
There is a huge groove worn in the crank pulley, so that's one problem, and not really a surprise.
The second (unexpected) problem was that the back edge of the tensioner pulley had cut a groove in the timing cover. When I tried to "unspring" the tensioner to remove the belt, it wouldn't budge. A bit more pressure caused the post that held the pulley to wring off of the tensioner. I'm not sure if the pulley was hung in the groove, or if the tensioner was just frozen. Either way, the tensioner is shot. Have a new one on order from Rodney.
Fortunately, I opted to order a new timing cover, so at least I don't have to wait for that to arrive.
Pat... How did you install the balancer?
I have read several accounts saying that using the crank bolt to pull it into position is a bad idea, as the crank threads can strip. (I was thinking of screwing a long bolt or stud all the way into the crank snout, and then using a nut against the washer to pull it down.)
Did you heat the balancer?
Thanks.
Post by: TopNotch on September 25, 2016, 08:26:08 pm
Post by: Raydar on September 25, 2016, 08:41:54 pm
Thanks. The timing cover is on. Balancer is next. Tensioner should be here some time around Wednesday. (Durn it.)
Post by: Raydar on September 30, 2016, 07:52:50 pm
All that's left to do before the car is completely driveable is to replace one (or maybe both) of the headlight buckets with one that came out of my other car when I installed the projectors. The adjusters are fubar, causing the left headlamp to shine down rabbit holes in front of the car. It'll be just as easy to replace the bucket as it will to replace the adjusters.
I don't recall having to use a lot of force to get it on. If it's a real harmonic balancer and not just a pulley, you don't want to heat it. I think I just tapped mine on.
You must have gotten one of the Dorman balancers that was reported to NOT be a press fit. (They may not be common, but they're out there.)
I had to use a rented installer tool to press mine on. It was NOT easy. It took everything I could muster, behind a 12" crescent wrench, to crank it down. (Didn't have a box or open end that big.)
Thanks for all the tips and support.