Post by: guitarfreak235 on September 01, 2016, 01:53:25 pm
this fixed the problem for a few weeks, then all of a sudden one day the select cable got sticky again. after driving for a bit it fixed itself and everything was back to normal. I thought that was odd. several days later it did it again but this time stayed for a couple drives. then all of a sudden it loosened up on the 1-4 side but shifts into and out of reverse and 5th were still sticky on the select cable. Even weirder.
I have been driving like this, with 5th and reverse "dragging" the select cable, for several days now. All of a sudden today, when I got in my car from at the store, the select cable was ABSOLUTELY LOCKED. All i could do is shift from 1-2 and 2-1. I drove back home slowly like this, and after 10 minutes of driving in 2nd, it finally went back to the way it was (select cable sticky for 5 and reverse only) and was able to return home like normal. When I got home, I went to check it out and the select cable was 100% STUCK AGAIN after parking in 1st. (I always do). I disconnected the select cable at both the transmission and the shifter. even completely disconnected i cant get the cable to budge. the shifter and transmission both move smoothly and freely as they are supposed to once the select cable is disconnected.
The previous owner said he had replaced the select cable himself because it wasnt able to get into 1st. The cables I had from the formula were in perfectly fine shape and had no issues with them ever in the formula. This leads me to believe something is ruining the select cables, or they are getting very kinked.
What is the proper route for both the select and shift cables? Is it bad for them to be up against the exhaust or even a coolant pipe? Mine is currently touching a coolant pipe but there is heat sheathing on the cable here.... I know that the select cable being pointed upwards on the transmission side allows water and dirt to slide down it, but it seems like I would have experienced a problem in the formula if that was it. It has only been in this fiero for a short time.
Any help is appreciated! Im going to order new cables from rodney dickman, but would like to be able to drive in the mean time since I have class everyday.
Post by: TopNotch on September 01, 2016, 02:03:36 pm
Post by: Raydar on September 01, 2016, 05:20:12 pm
As the pic above states, pull the cable into the corner of the engine compartment, away from the exhaust system. If you can push it way down, you can help to minimize the tight bend where it turns the corner, and still keep it away from the exhaust.
You already know about the "water in the cable" issue. That really causes problems in the winter, when the water can freeze (at least until the exhaust heat thaws it again.)
Post by: guitarfreak235 on September 01, 2016, 05:35:59 pm
I assume that since you said it was a Formula, that you have a Getrag transmission. The Isuzu transmission would be different, with both cables going over the top.
yes forgot to mention but it is a getrag. Mine is not routed that way. in that diagram the cable would be seen behind the exhaust. it isn't touching it though.
i guess ill have to reroute it. one more question. can the cable spin freely within the casing? the reason i ask is that I did finally get the cable to break free with it only attached to the shifter. it moved smoothly with little resistance. once i went to reattach the cable at the transmission i noticed the socket that snaps to the ball was facing the opposite direction. i had to twist it 180 to snap to the ball. with it attached like this there was resistance again like before, but atleast it would move. i flipped the cable at the shifter the same way to hopefully relieve the bind. if the cable can spin within the casing will this work to relieve a bind? or would I have to check to see if the entire cable is being twisted at the mounting locations?
Post by: TopNotch on September 01, 2016, 06:24:56 pm
Post by: Fierofool on September 01, 2016, 09:18:47 pm
It should exit low from behind the shield, near the AC line connection with a gradual curve upward.
Post by: Fierofool on September 01, 2016, 10:00:21 pm
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Post by: guitarfreak235 on September 03, 2016, 03:27:50 pm
When the cable is made, the ends are attached solidly so that they align with their respective attachment points. Twisting it can cause slight unwinding of the braided cable. I think I have a pic of the correct routing. When wifey finishes with the PC, I'll post if i can find it. My 86 was routed incorrectly outside the shield after an engine install and had to be rerouted. I believe it was that way from the previous owner. Not sure because the engine was blown when I got it.
It should exit low from behind the shield, near the AC line connection with a gradual curve upward.
unless im mistaken, my cables are not stock and are not braided. the ends of both cables are solid. they appear to be all solid, unless its just braided on the inside..
Post by: guitarfreak235 on September 03, 2016, 03:56:56 pm
it appears an oil line has slightly melted the outside of the cable. looks like its time for new cables.
i guess the previous owner had been routing the cable wrong, and this issue was going to keep coming up.
would it be a bad idea to cut a little slit where it melted to relieve the pressure, and wrap it temporarily to keep debris out until i can get a cable ordered??
Post by: guitarfreak235 on September 03, 2016, 04:00:09 pm
The picture doesn't show the shield, but you can get the general idea of how it comes out. This is on the 86SE. My 87 is routed the same way.
i cant tell in the picture, is the cable above or below that coolant pipe?
Post by: Fierofool on September 03, 2016, 05:10:48 pm
The at one time, the cable was routed on top of the AC lines on both cars. You can see the rub marks. I think the rub may be where my 86 AC leak is located. The rubber hose that passes between the camera and AC line is actually far above it. It's the fresh air feed for the EGR solenoid.
In the pic you quoted, you can see an L-shaped bracket standing out from the frame. You might possibly fabricate a long plate to bolt into the hole in the end of it, point it downward and use it to hold the cable away from the exhaust pipe. I wouldn't recommend pulling the cable up to attach it to that bracket because it puts a sharp bend in the end of the cable.
The ends of the cable are solid, but they're crimped onto a braided wire cable. The solid portion allows the system to move smoothly through the ferules at the end mounting points. A braided cable would bend to buckle and cut into the sides of the ferule. A solid cable all the way through wouldn't work. It would be too soft to push or too rigid to flex.
Also, you refer to an oil line melting the sheath. I don't know of any oil line that is outside the Fiero engine. Only automatics have any oil lines, and they go up to the radiator from the transmission.
To answer your question about the coolant pipe, the cable is above it. Maybe it's a little clearer in this shot from my 87.
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Post by: guitarfreak235 on September 03, 2016, 05:47:03 pm
I've been away from the house, and just saw your post. I just took another shot of the 87, which better matches the way the Formula is set up. This is a Rodney Dickman select cable and is heavier than the factory select cable. The date says 2015, but it was actually taken just a few moments ago.
The at one time, the cable was routed on top of the AC lines on both cars. You can see the rub marks. I think the rub may be where my 86 AC leak is located. The rubber hose that passes between the camera and AC line is actually far above it. It's the fresh air feed for the EGR solenoid.
In the pic you quoted, you can see an L-shaped bracket standing out from the frame. You might possibly fabricate a long plate to bolt into the hole in the end of it, point it downward and use it to hold the cable away from the exhaust pipe. I wouldn't recommend pulling the cable up to attach it to that bracket because it puts a sharp bend in the end of the cable.
The ends of the cable are solid, but they're crimped onto a braided wire cable. The solid portion allows the system to move smoothly through the ferules at the end mounting points. A braided cable would bend to buckle and cut into the sides of the ferule. A solid cable all the way through wouldn't work. It would be too soft to push or too rigid to flex.
Also, you refer to an oil line melting the sheath. I don't know of any oil line that is outside the Fiero engine. Only automatics have any oil lines, and they go up to the radiator from the transmission.
To answer your question about the coolant pipe, the cable is above it. Maybe it's a little clearer in this shot from my 87.
it wasnt an oil line I messed up. it was just wedged between the clutch line and the coolant pipe (under the coolant pipe). i think the coolant pipe was melting the cable. there was no sheath on it there originally.
it seems like i cant get it to not touch the coolant line, is this ok? it barely touches the top of it. this time i do have the heat shield on it there but its kinda old and raggedy. it is routed properly as per the diagram and the provided pictures.
Post by: Fierofool on September 03, 2016, 06:35:06 pm
Problems generally start to show up in winter when the water inside freezes. A couple minutes after starting, exhaust and coolant pipe heat thaws it and it begins to work.