Georgia Fiero Club Forum
All Things Fiero => Tech Tips, Tech Questions => Topic started by: GTRS Fiero on March 08, 2017, 07:36:22 pm
-
Don't just use anything. Some products cause damage.
I'd like to put together a list of products to use. I'm going to pull info from some other posts to start.
Weathertech has some products for spraying on their automotive floor mats. I used to work for a chemical company and we made a janitorial product for rubber mat dressing. It worked very well on tires because it was water based and wouldn't harm tires.
Stay away from products containing Hydroflouric Acid, or any other acid.
Don't use Purple Power on automotive rubber.
It's ArmorAll Extreme Wheel and Tire Cleaner. It goes on as a foam and does a very decent job of cleaning my tires and engine parts. I've not noticed any indication of it drying out my tires or any of the hoses in the engine bay.
It's hard to find, but I used to get a product at AutoZone to spray in the engine bay after it was cleaned. You can spray it on everything. It leaves a good seal on all rubber products. It's called CD-2 Engine Detailer. You may only be able to find it on Amazon or Ebay.
-
Wheel cleaning:
The wheels were originally polished and then coated with a clear lacquer or enamel. That's either chipped or flaked away and the exposed aluminum has oxidized, developing what looks like what you describe as white mold. You can get small buffer wheels to be used in a power drill. They come in a variety of materials. To clean without damaging, use the type that look like the 3M Scotchbrite pads used to clean glass stovetops. Different colors are used to identify the abrasiveness. I believe the black ones are most abrasive. I use a brown one.
It takes a little work, but you can clean the wheels pretty good with the brown buffer wheel. Then use a good aluminum polish. I have some metal polish that comes in a stick. It's called polishing rouge. I use a cloth wheel for that. Spin the wheel against the end of the rouge, then apply the wheel to the lip of the wheel. It turns black as it polishes, bujt that wipes off with a cloth. Afterward, apply a good coat of automotive wax to protect the polished surface.
Try Mother's Mag and Aluminum Wheel Polish.
http://www.gafiero.org/bbs/index.php?topic=1010.0 (http://www.gafiero.org/bbs/index.php?topic=1010.0)
-
Mean Green for control arms and lateral links?
-
How do you clean out that gunk that accumulates behind the tail lights? I've used s soapy cloth, but can't get all the corners.
-
"Mean Green" is one of the best cleaners I have found. Good for removing crud and grease, as long as the grease isn't caked on. A brush helps.
Be careful not to spray it on bare aluminum, however. It is mildly acidic, and will turn aluminum gray. It will also take the shine off of "almost chrome" thermal coating. Don't ask me how I found this out.
I also used it (alternating with Tide) to restore an oil soaked trunk carpet. Worked quite well, but required some scrubbing.
The industrial purple cleaner (I'll have to get the name) is similar to Mean Green, but it's lots nastier if you happen to breathe the fumes. Don't spray it on hot brakes, if you're using it for wheels/tires.
-
How do you clean out that gunk that accumulates behind the tail lights? I've used s soapy cloth, but can't get all the corners.
Toothbrush or Q-tips? Old paintbrush?
-
I thought of Q-tips, but that stuff if not coming off. How do you loosen it?
-
I can't picture what and where behind the tail lights, but to clean tight spaces, you can get chip brushes at Harbor Freight. They are also sold at hardware stores in the paint dept. They are the cheap white wood handle ones. Comes in various sizes. WD40 works well for grease and tar. Available in bulk at Home Depot. Apply with a trigger sprayer.
-
... No Odor. Says it's ideal for car interiors. I used it when Tegan was small and had thrown up in the truck and on her car seat. Did the trick for us.