Post by: GTRS Fiero on October 15, 2017, 07:08:57 pm
Issue 2:
The RKE is intermittent. No idea. Suspect wiring. Sometimes lock works, but not unlock, or vise versa.
Issue 3:
Issue 4:
Issue 5:
Issue 6:
Issue 7:
I had verified gauge accuracy against the computer last year. It's hard for me to believe that all my gauges suddenly went bad.
Issue 8:
Post by: GTRS Fiero on October 15, 2017, 08:30:54 pm
That brings me to more issues.
Issue 9:
The trunk light and 1 lower courtesy bulb are missing. I wonder what that would affect.
Issue 10:
If the ECU was expecting pintle injectors, and I have multitec, what happens?
Post by: TopNotch on October 15, 2017, 08:38:51 pm
The disk-type injectors can cause a rich mixture.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on October 15, 2017, 08:58:43 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on October 16, 2017, 02:29:08 pm
Issue 11:
Issue 12:
Issue 13:
Post by: GTRS Fiero on October 16, 2017, 04:27:54 pm
Anyone know where to get those foam pads that set in the cowl area that the hood rests on from?
What are those pads on the bottom of the hood called?
Post by: GTRS Fiero on October 16, 2017, 05:06:49 pm
Post by: Fierofool on October 16, 2017, 05:14:12 pm
The strips on the bottom of the headlight doors are Teflon or Nylon. How many do you need?
Which foam pads? The hood doesn't rest on any foam pads. There are two short pieces of weatherstrip, one on each end of the cowl, that helps to direct water down the side drain channel. They probably have other purposes, too, like keeping debris from blocking the drain channel between the top of the fender and the side of the front compartment seal.
On sunroof equipped cars, the sunroof storage support shelf has 2 foam pads and the ones that are mounted on the hood are to keep the sunroof from bouncing around on rough roads. The sunroof is sandwiched between the flat ones and the round ones.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on October 16, 2017, 05:21:56 pm
You are right about the pads. The flat ones are missing a corner, and the round ones are falling off. I guess I could reglue the round ones.
Post by: Fierofool on October 16, 2017, 06:38:50 pm
Hook your fingernail under the edge of the headlight door strips. They will buckle and come right out. What's wrong with yours?
Post by: GTRS Fiero on October 16, 2017, 08:37:30 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on October 17, 2017, 06:45:59 pm
My thought is either bad fuel or water in the fuel. The station was along a major highway.
Anyway, I added some HEET, mixed it up, and ran the engine for 20 minutes. No change.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on October 17, 2017, 08:31:37 pm
Issue 16:
Issue 17:
Post by: GTRS Fiero on October 17, 2017, 09:00:41 pm
And my powdercoat is peeling:
Post by: Fierofool on October 17, 2017, 09:33:48 pm
The CV grease is usually some shade of green and all I've dealt with stinks horribly.
When you get the car back home, you may need to contact OleJoeDad and let he and Brian straighten out the car. I would hope that you could get some money refunded from the person who had your car without having to go back to Texas to pursue it. I won't use the term "Did the work" or "Fixed your car".
I've got to go dig up those headlight door strips.
Post by: TopNotch on October 17, 2017, 09:48:45 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on October 17, 2017, 09:57:40 pm
I'll check on the other ground wire.
This guy came highly recommended, believe it or not. Several people recommended him.
The car is home. I believe I'm being objective about this.
The car was left outside in the weather, which destroyed much of the "nice" of the car, and hundreds of hours and $ I'd spent on it. Here's what I believe that the car needs to fix it:
1. Ground strap, new injectors, new plugs
2. Wiring fixed
3.
4. Wiring fixed
5. Wiring fixed
6. Wiring fixed
7. Wiring fixed
8. Transmission adjusted
9. Wiring fixed
10. Grounds fixed, ECU reprogram
11. Dust shields adjusted
12. Wiring fixed
13. Valve cover gasket replaced
14. Old vacuum lines removed
15. Ground straps repaired
16. Cruise cable repaired
17.
18. Vacuum lines fixed
It also needs a lot of cosmetic work, including the power-coat on the intake done for a third time.
I'm going to treat the rust that has appeared under the battery, and on the exhaust. I'll replace all the rusty bolts and nuts I see (basically, everything on the engine). I'll remove the old vacuum line. I'll fix the radio knob and the shift cover. I've cleaned up about a trash bag of leave and other debris. I have a bin of nuts and bolts and little round seals that have no home. We'll see what else I can get done without the code enforcement gestapo harassing me.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on October 17, 2017, 10:08:48 pm
It seems to me that you could get headlight doors from any junk yard Fiero for the strips. A Fiero stripped of practically everything else will probably still have headlight doors. ;)
While that may be true, there first must be a Fiero in the junkyard, and second my wife would have to take off work to watch the kids. Kids under 18 are not allowed at the junkyards, and for good reason. My kids are basically always with me when I'm off work, and often when I am at work. I was last able to go, back in 2014, because my wife was off and watched the kids. Time off must be requested weeks in advance. I don't know of any way to plan when a Fiero will arrive.
Fieros that are brought in one day are often crushed the next day. There were several Fieros that were driven into the junkyard, and were crushed the next day. Regardless, they are parked at the corner by the crusher, and the fronts are usually destroyed by the equipment driving over them. You can see the Fieros from the street, because they are in the front row. The last time I saw a Fiero there, they had picked it up with some sort of claw thing, and holes were punched into the doors, as a result.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on October 17, 2017, 11:52:40 pm
I did find the O2 sensor wire laying on the exhaust. Also, there is a rubber hose from the intake that connects to nothing, although it seems to have had a clamp on it, but it was also laying on the exhaust.
While I was in there, I had the engine running, and felt exhaust leaks coming from the manifolds, the crossover, and the EGR.
The throttle cable is kinked to the point that it catches sometimes.
There is a port on the throttle body where apparently the coolant used to connect, but there is nothing on the end of it. It just sticks out.
Post by: TopNotch on October 18, 2017, 08:24:38 am
There is a port on the throttle body where apparently the coolant used to connect, but there is nothing on the end of it. It just sticks out.
A lot of people disconnect this coolant line. I think it is to prevent icing in the throttle body, but if you don't live up north, it's probably not needed.
Post by: Fierofool on October 18, 2017, 09:06:58 am
Post by: Raydar on October 18, 2017, 11:18:03 am
Post by: GTRS Fiero on October 18, 2017, 06:34:59 pm
To put this in perspective, yes, I'm pissed, but no one takes the came care for your stuff as you do. There are a lot of problems, yes, but they are all fixable, and I think it's close. He is willing to fix the problems.
My problems are several. I have to get my Fiero back to Texas for him to fix it. I'm loathe to leave it there. Texas isn't exactly close. Basically, 29 hours, round trip, just in drive time for me by myself. What else may happen? I have my kids, which makes the trip more difficult, because I can't really expect them to sit and watch car work for hours. I can't leave them, can't really bring them. Getting off work is difficult.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on October 18, 2017, 09:10:25 pm
Post by: Fierofool on October 18, 2017, 09:42:37 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on October 18, 2017, 09:47:11 pm
It would seem that this hose being off would cause shifting issues, probably early shifts, and certainly the idle would be higher, but the air coming through that tube isn't filtered.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on October 18, 2017, 09:54:06 pm
to here:
Post by: Fierofool on October 18, 2017, 10:07:24 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on October 18, 2017, 10:11:49 pm
It seems to just be engine oil that I'm burning. Transmission fluid smells differently.
That's the vapor purge on the transmission? Meaning that it sometimes expels fluids?
Post by: Fierofool on October 18, 2017, 10:18:01 pm
Post by: f85gtron on October 18, 2017, 10:21:24 pm
That's probably a kick down dash pot. It probably modulates a rod that mechanically flips a valve to make the trans hold a gear longer or kick down when vacuum is gone. Old school.
We used to (and still do) use trans fluid to clean top end by pouring slowly into carbs. Works like a charm. So if that's what is (probably not) being sucked into the intake, then your valves are probably VERY clean by now!
Also, if you want something done right, do it yourself. I learned it the hard way.
Ron
Post by: GTRS Fiero on October 18, 2017, 10:23:30 pm
Post by: f85gtron on October 18, 2017, 10:30:28 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on October 18, 2017, 10:40:30 pm
Can i chime in?
That's probably a kick down dash pot. It probably modulates a rod that mechanically flips a valve to make the trans hold a gear longer or kick down when vacuum is gone. Old school.
We used to (and still do) use trans fluid to clean top end by pouring slowly into carbs. Works like a charm. So if that's what is (probably not) being sucked into the intake, then your valves are probably VERY clean by now!
Also, if you want something done right, do it yourself. I learned it the hard way.
Ron
By all means, chime in! I'm the novice.
It's hard to do something myself. My brothers don't have the time to help, and I don't have the knowledge or tools. Also, the gestapo cite me for every little thing. I was actually cleaning the Fiero, but I brought out the bucket of water and put it between my Fiero and the street. I laid the hose nearby, and lots of cleaning things. I still got a citation. I'll get out of it, but it requires my going to court, which is a 3-hour waste of time, just waiting my turn.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on October 18, 2017, 10:45:26 pm
The 2 smaller ones go to a Y, then to the hard line that goes against the trunk wall, then to a hose, back to a hard line that goes under the intake and connects to an elbow on the throttle body. This goes all the way around the trunk through soft and hard lines of different sizes to end up about 16 inches from where it started.
Post by: f85gtron on October 18, 2017, 10:45:54 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on October 18, 2017, 11:00:31 pm
Geez! No wonder people in Missouri like to riot!
That's one way of looking at it. I have yet to see a justified riot here, or one that didn't violate the very things the rioters were supposedly rioting against.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on October 23, 2017, 06:07:00 pm
If I just had the following problems corrected, how much would it cost/difficulty?
1. Valves that may be damaged, off lifters, or out of adjustment
2. Exhaust leaks at manifold gaskets, Y-pipe, and EGR valve
3. Grounds for RKE and gauges
4. Ground straps for engine
5. Replace injectors and spark plugs
Should this be hundreds, thousands, ...?
Post by: TopNotch on October 23, 2017, 06:19:08 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on October 23, 2017, 06:27:38 pm
Obviously, I'm not comfortable enough with the work, either.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on October 23, 2017, 09:37:32 pm
Post by: f85gtron on October 24, 2017, 08:53:31 am
Post by: GTRS Fiero on October 25, 2017, 05:24:19 am
I moved the other comments here (http://www.gafieroclub.org/bbs/index.php?topic=2914.msg27342#msg27342)
Post by: GTRS Fiero on October 25, 2017, 06:43:25 am
Post by: Fierofool on October 25, 2017, 07:27:49 am
When the 3.4 pan is used, the oil level reading will indicate high when the engine has 4.5 quarts. For that reason, Rodney makes a spacer that slides onto the dipstick and resides underneath the small metal cap. It raises the dipstick to the proper level.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on October 25, 2017, 07:45:01 am
Sounds as if I just need the spacer.
Post by: Fierofool on October 25, 2017, 11:11:11 am
Post by: Fierofool on October 25, 2017, 11:18:58 am
Post by: GTRS Fiero on October 25, 2017, 05:39:05 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on October 26, 2017, 07:09:36 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on October 26, 2017, 07:11:59 pm
The clamps on the intake hose weren't tight at all.
I thought there should be a thick ground wire going to the engine block, not just 2 little wires.
Post by: Fierofool on October 26, 2017, 08:27:02 pm
Look just above the select cable bracket on the left. You can see a threaded stud on the lower frame rail with a wire bolted to it. That wire should go to one of the main transmission housing bolts. It appears to be broken in this photo. The broken end has a large eyelet for the transmission to engine bolt. You can buy the regular bare braided ground straps in varying lengths and attach them between the cradle and engine, cradle an body, and the engine and body. Grounds never hurt unless you attach them to a positive wire. :)
_3.JPG)
Post by: GTRS Fiero on October 26, 2017, 08:54:29 pm
I looked at my Fiero on the left frame rail. No ground cable anywhere that I could see or reach. No bolt hole, either. The only thing on the frame rail is some sort of line. A brand new line. Not sure where it goes.
Post by: Fierofool on October 26, 2017, 09:19:18 pm
The wire doesn't connect to the exhaust. Being 2 dimensional, there's no real depth. It looks like the wire is curled, but on my car, it's long enough to connect to the transmission mounting bolt/stud. Automatics might have the wire located elsewhere.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on October 26, 2017, 09:56:06 pm
I don't know for sure, but I have a suspicion that that messes with the alignment.
I think the EGR adapter will have to be replaced
Up by the spare tire, there are 2 bolts with big plastic heads on them. One goes through the jack, I think, but the other one is shorter. Where does it go?
Post by: Fierofool on October 26, 2017, 10:10:52 pm
Why does the EGR base or adapter need to be replaced?
The short bolt is what holds the metal bar that spare tire in place. One of the bar has a flat head that fits into a slotted bracket. The other end of the bar has a loop. The loop and hold down bolt goes to the passenger side, just below the side of the jack.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on October 26, 2017, 10:33:03 pm
Post by: Fierofool on October 26, 2017, 11:26:16 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on October 26, 2017, 11:27:46 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on October 27, 2017, 05:53:19 pm
I'm not sure what the problems are, but he thinks this is a 15-hour job to fix. Maybe. I think that's optimistic, at this point, but perhaps with a good game plan and working together...I still doubt it.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on October 28, 2017, 06:03:36 pm
Someone made the suggestion of CLR.
Post by: Fierofool on October 28, 2017, 07:11:25 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on October 28, 2017, 08:28:59 pm
Post by: Fierofool on October 28, 2017, 10:39:23 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on October 29, 2017, 08:18:01 am
Post by: Fierofool on October 29, 2017, 08:38:51 am
Post by: GTRS Fiero on October 29, 2017, 08:43:42 am
Post by: GTRS Fiero on November 01, 2017, 06:45:20 pm
It seams that, out of gear, the rev limiter kicks in a bit above 4K RPM, but it'll run to 4K in gear.
The lowest thing on the bottom of the engine is the oil pan, right? It seems mine is still the 2.8 oil pan. Odd.
The entire intake, the valve covers, the fuel rail, the thermostat housing, and some vacuum hoses must all come off, because there is a spot above the water pump that didn't get painted well and is rusty already.
The upper intake needs to be recoated, anyway.
Post by: Fierofool on November 01, 2017, 07:28:25 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on November 01, 2017, 07:53:13 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on November 03, 2017, 05:40:38 pm
Haven't forgotten about your headlight door issue. I don't know what I did with the strips I had. I can't find them. I don't know if I put them in a box with something else, or if they're in my shed or up in the storage building.
I received the strips. They look great. Thanks, Fierofool!
Here's the left side before Fierofool:
You can see that the bottom is broken, but it doesn't want to come out. I don't know what happened to around the strip.
Here's the right side before Fierofool:
Notice that the strip is missing entirely. You can sortof see what the problem is, in this picture.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on November 03, 2017, 05:41:05 pm
This glue has great adhesion, and equally good cohesion. I had to scrape this gunk out of the slots into which the strips fit. I had a really hard time getting the left strip to fit into the lower slot. I have no idea how the strips came out, with this glue.
Left side strip, after Fierofool:
The strip is sitting flat, no matter how it looks.
Right side strip, after Fierofool:
The new strips actually look better than my originals.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on November 03, 2017, 05:42:45 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on November 04, 2017, 03:15:32 pm
With a little effort, the knob slipped right on. It turns well, with no looseness. Nice and straight.
I have mixed feelings about adding some epoxy or something around the inner plastic that was broken, to prevent future failures. What do you think?
Post by: GTRS Fiero on November 04, 2017, 03:20:05 pm
I carefully removed this plate, and reglued. The ash tray door does close correctly, now.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on November 04, 2017, 03:26:27 pm
I wasn't very careful when gluing, being more concerned with not getting the glue where it would cause issues with the gear selector, or the aforementioned white plate, and I didn't get the corner flat and level. :(
It looked passable there, and I didn't realize my mistake until I took the next picture.
And even worse here. I have no idea how I missed this while gluing.
Moment of truth:
And it held! Note that, after the initial gluing, once the piece was in place, I added more superglue, both above and below to both connection points. You'd figure that there would be more than just those two tiny connection points. Oh, well.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on November 08, 2017, 07:12:03 am
I'm considering disconnecting that vacuum hose and seeing if it smokes with the vacuum leak.
Post by: Raydar on November 08, 2017, 06:07:22 pm
This could easily explain your "strange shift" problem.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on November 08, 2017, 07:07:00 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on November 08, 2017, 07:26:09 pm
I'd forgotten about the hunting idle issue.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on November 10, 2017, 05:07:09 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on November 14, 2017, 03:02:26 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on November 15, 2017, 11:32:28 am
Went for a drive. Still seems to be in the wrong gear a lot, but doesn't fall on its face. It dies, because of the exhaust leaks, which probably contribute to the surging idle.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on November 15, 2017, 06:09:48 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on November 15, 2017, 08:01:35 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on November 16, 2017, 04:52:20 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on November 16, 2017, 05:23:01 pm
On the right is how they looked when I took the car to Texas. This is one of the replacement center caps. I'd had the car, with those center caps, for 3 years, and they looked great. Not so much when I got the car back.
I'm going to have a hard time with the rear emblem. I don't know if it can be fixed or not.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on November 16, 2017, 06:19:42 pm
I took it around the "Lindbergh/Pershall exit curve" about 50MPH, which was about 2MPH too fast, maybe. I didn't hit the curb or anything, but slid about 4 feet sideways with all 4 tires. I watched the curb get closer and closer, and could've used a bit more power, but it straightened out and pulled through. The guy behind me hopped the curb and went into the grass.
Post by: Fierofool on November 16, 2017, 08:04:00 pm
BTW, the cylinder by the battery is # 2. Right to left they are 2, 4, and 6. Trunk side, right to left are 1, 3, and 5, just for future reference.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on November 16, 2017, 09:39:42 pm
My Fiero still has lots of issues.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on November 17, 2017, 06:49:27 pm
When I look at this, my RPM is whackadoodle. Most of the rest doesn't make sense. I think this graph shows bad grounds. It was running rough, which I think this shows.
Post by: f85gtron on November 18, 2017, 07:59:45 am
Things I noticed:
1) The o2 sensor is swinging (switching) a lot. That's a good thing. The more the merrier. You want high switch counts per sample.
2) volts are goofy. I can't figure out what's going on there.
3) it's hard to tell what represents what. I'm assuming the top line is coolant, the whacky line is o2, the volts and something else are close to the bottom (not good for volts), and the vehicle speed is at the bottom.
Am I looking at that right?
Post by: GTRS Fiero on November 18, 2017, 01:23:54 pm
I wasn't sure what to upload, so I attached an XDF file.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on November 20, 2017, 08:10:44 am
Post by: GTRS Fiero on November 20, 2017, 07:06:01 pm
I think I found the cause of the exhaust leak. The nut is welded in place, apparently, but the bolt was only snug:
I'm not sure what that bracket above the Y-pipe with the threaded bolt hole is for.
I replaced it and tightened things:
I also replaced the gasket under the EGR mount block. The holes in the adapter are certainly stripped. Anyway, I don't feel any more leaks in this area.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on November 20, 2017, 07:10:24 pm
Post by: Fierofool on November 20, 2017, 07:43:05 pm
The coating or color of the bolt wouldn't affect it's functional torque. I think that a bolt might have been over-tightened. Once it was stripped, it may have allowed exhaust gases to penetrate the gap, causing the gasket to burn out.
When I selected the bolts that hold the valve to the adapter, I picked ones that were just long enough to utilize all the threads in the adapter. I'm not sure, but if there's enough clearance on the bottom, you might be able to put a self-locking nut on a longer pair of bolts. Not a nylock, but one that has a compression fitting. I don't remember the name of that particular style nut. They have little dimples in the flats of the nut.
Also pay close attention to the adapter to egr valve gasket. It has one side that's marked 'top'.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on November 20, 2017, 07:50:24 pm
The guy said that he forgot to install the gasket, when I asked him.
Post by: Fierofool on November 20, 2017, 08:12:04 pm
The one on the right goes between the adapter plate and the EGR valve. It will be marked 'top' in that little depression just below the round center hole.
_4.JPG)
Post by: GTRS Fiero on November 21, 2017, 05:02:06 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on January 15, 2018, 07:27:04 pm
I put the battery on the tender.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on January 23, 2018, 12:58:25 am
There was some slack in the shift cable, so we fixed that, and also adjusted the cable for the shifter. I still can't shift to first, but we ran out of time.
Tomorrow, I'll run by Medina Lake for a shakedown run. That should be about 2 hours' of driving, all told. Then, we'll replace the left axle, and fix the dust shields. I hope to address the grounds, a few dead circuits, some fluid leaks, and the non-op check engine indicator, as well.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on January 23, 2018, 11:50:04 am
Oddly, it's under the band, right where the clasp is for the ring seal.
We had ordered another axle, but whatever arrived is totally the wrong part. The shaft is shorter, has splines of a different width, and certainly the number of splines is different. Also, the ends are different. I hope we can find the right part locally today.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on January 23, 2018, 11:59:07 am
Post by: GTRS Fiero on January 23, 2018, 02:59:54 pm
But, the dust shields are off the rotors, so that should be fixed.
Post by: Fierofool on January 23, 2018, 04:00:54 pm
Post by: Roger on January 23, 2018, 04:05:04 pm
Upon pulling the axle that had slung green goo all over, we found not one single tear. The boot looked perfect. We did find the source of the leak.
Oddly, it's under the band, right there the clasp is for the ring seal.
We had ordered another axle, but whatever arrived is totally the wrong part. The shaft is shorter, has splines of a different width, and certainly the number of splines is different. Also, the ends are different. I hope we can find the right part locally today.
From where did you get the wrong axle?
Post by: GTRS Fiero on January 23, 2018, 05:00:10 pm
When we pulled the axle, should fluid have come out of the transmission?
That wasn't fun, off and on with the axle several times. Everything is tight. This last run, no issues, and I pushed it a bit.
We, um, didn't replace the axle nut. Hope that doesn't cause issues down the road. We'd have had to have a pile of nuts.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on January 23, 2018, 08:39:56 pm
The power socket and light have no power.
Post by: Fierofool on January 23, 2018, 10:44:54 pm
Sra you sure that your tranny upgrade uses a stock Fiero axle?
Post by: GTRS Fiero on January 24, 2018, 07:24:45 am
Fluid didn't spill, although we expected it to.
What happens, if I don't replace the nut? I'll have to do it when I get home.
Post by: Fierofool on January 24, 2018, 07:47:48 am
Post by: GTRS Fiero on January 24, 2018, 11:30:09 am
The check engine light issue was a connection on the circuit board. I don't know why the power adapter wasn't working. Maybe a bad connection. The LED by the power adapter was in backwards.
We fixed the shift issue by adjusting the TV cable.
Just finished giving the engine a seafoam treatment through the intake to clean up the carbon.
The RKE is working now, but I'll probably have to replace the module.
We tried the cruise with a module I brought. No change. Probably need the AR module from a V8.
After the engine cools off, we'll check for exhaust leaks.
No check engine codes.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on January 24, 2018, 01:33:26 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on January 24, 2018, 08:15:45 pm
New problem. After about 60 miles, the service engine light came on. I put the computer on it, and it shows EGR issue. I looked at the EGR, and the Fiero cable to the transmission had gotten jammed in the EGR, probably when the EGR was removed so we could drill out the bolts on the rear manifold flange. The cable still works, but it's toast. So, I've got to source that cable, whatever it's called. Darn.
I'll add the missing bolt to the coolant crossover tube tomorrow. I got all the fasteners in place on the top of the radiator. I blew out all the little wire ends and other debris.
I don't know if the EGR solenoid itself is bad. I've been told it is, but I don't believe so. I think that there was a gap caused by that cable being in there, and that caused a code to be set. I did clear the computer, and the code came up again.
Post by: TopNotch on January 24, 2018, 09:19:49 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on January 24, 2018, 10:05:32 pm
There was also a puddle under the front of the car, at home, but not here. I couldn't reproduce any leaks at this time.
Post by: Roger on January 25, 2018, 08:04:59 am
Well, I've put about 150 miles on it. Then parked on clean concrete, and got no drips. There is no fluid on the underside of the car. I have no idea where that fluid went. It was leaking, at one point, at my house. Since then, the valve cover leaks, oil cap leak, and a few other leaks were fixed. It's possible that the transmission wasn't full, and that all those leaks were from the engine oil.
There was also a puddle under the front of the car, at home, but not here. I couldn't reproduce any leaks at this time.
If it's like a helicopter, if it ain't leaking...its empty. :o
Post by: GTRS Fiero on January 25, 2018, 08:38:12 am
Today (shortly), I'll be loading it up to take it home.
Post by: TopNotch on January 25, 2018, 10:02:54 am
Post by: Roger on January 25, 2018, 08:46:36 pm
Well, it sat on a clean concrete floor, last night. I'll check it in a bit, but I hope everything is dry. I put it away hot and full of fluids, last night.I hope all is well. You've put a lot of hard work into it.
Today (shortly), I'll be loading it up to take it home.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on January 26, 2018, 10:20:09 am
I assume that you know, when you check auto trans fluid, it should be done right after driving the car for a while. The fluid should be warm, and the transmission should have been through some gears.
I did not know, but drove for 50 miles. Stop and go traffic. We tested with the engine running.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on January 26, 2018, 10:42:25 am
Post by: GTRS Fiero on January 26, 2018, 05:16:45 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on January 26, 2018, 05:24:29 pm
Post by: Fierofool on January 26, 2018, 06:07:50 pm
What are the symptoms of a bad digital EGR valve?
Good question. But I would think the ECM would recognize it and light the SES light.
f85gtron and Scottb have done the digital cruise. Maybe they'll drop in and comment.
Post by: Roger on January 26, 2018, 06:29:09 pm
Is it possible that the digital cruise gets ground through its case?
Not entirely certain on the case. Pin 'C' should be at ground tho.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on January 26, 2018, 06:41:23 pm
What are the symptoms of a bad digital EGR valve?
Good question. But I would think the ECM would recognize it and light the SES light.
f85gtron and Scottb have done the digital cruise. Maybe they'll drop in and comment.
Oh, it does light the check engine light. After an hour or so of driving.
Post by: Roger on January 27, 2018, 09:37:20 am
What are the symptoms of a bad digital EGR valve?
Good question. But I would think the ECM would recognize it and light the SES light.
f85gtron and Scottb have done the digital cruise. Maybe they'll drop in and comment.
Oh, it does light the check engine light. After an hour or so of driving.
I don't know if the 7730 uses the same Code set or not. After an hour or so of driving I wouldn't think it would be the EGR.
Fierofool is right. Hopefully f85gtron or scottb will chime in soon.
Edited for readibility.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on February 04, 2018, 01:07:45 pm
I plan to go for a drive again, and place a piece of paper or something under that area. My theory is that I should be able to tell what the fluid is by the color.
Post by: TopNotch on February 04, 2018, 02:44:16 pm
I'm trying to figure out what the fluid is.Motor oil is brown, (fresh) auto trans fluid is red, brake fluid smells, and coolant tastes bitter-sweet. (Yes, I know it's poisonous. Spit it out after tasting.)
Post by: GTRS Fiero on February 04, 2018, 02:50:43 pm
Post by: Fierofool on February 04, 2018, 04:39:14 pm
Oh, yeah! It might be the kitty cat peed there. Don't taste it. Spitting it out doesn't help.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on February 04, 2018, 04:43:37 pm
Post by: Fierofool on February 04, 2018, 04:51:52 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on February 04, 2018, 05:23:39 pm
Post by: Fierofool on February 04, 2018, 08:30:42 pm
Post by: Roger on February 05, 2018, 08:09:26 am
Post by: Fierofool on February 05, 2018, 09:05:10 am
Post by: GTRS Fiero on February 05, 2018, 06:17:32 pm
Post by: Fierofool on February 05, 2018, 09:45:38 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on February 09, 2018, 06:11:46 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on February 15, 2018, 06:26:27 pm
How can you tell if it's in closed loop? I ran the engine, and the fan came on after about 5 minutes.
Post by: Fierofool on February 15, 2018, 08:23:55 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on February 15, 2018, 09:26:41 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on February 18, 2018, 09:13:31 pm
I think I'm going to have to adjust the TV cable. Heck, I've got to replace it, anyway. When the transmissions shifts, if I'm fully on the throttle, the engine hits the rev limiter twice, then shifts. There is sometimes a slight hesitation about halfway through a gear on about half throttle. I don't know why, yet.
After about 30 minutes' driving, the check engine light came on again, and stayed on for the duration of the ride.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on February 22, 2018, 08:08:14 am
Post by: GTRS Fiero on March 03, 2018, 12:59:00 pm
I checked the PVC valve. It's clean. It rattles. Checked for vacuum through the valve on idle. Yes. There does seem to be oil in that vacuum tube, though.
I'm going to check for fuel in the MAP sensor vacuum tube next. Then a leaky injector test. Right now, I'm avoiding the code enforcement officer. He's wandering around out there. When I saw him, I carried in a sack of "groceries" and closed the decklid.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on March 03, 2018, 09:07:23 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on March 04, 2018, 05:30:07 pm
Meanwhile, I went back to rent the fuel gauge. That's fine and dandy, except now they think it's lost. That was O'Reilly's, where they couldn't find parking light bulbs, because they didn't come up in their computer. So I asked about buying one. Not my day. They didn't have one in stock on ghe shelf, although the computer says they have several varieties. They checked with some other locations, but none actually had any any in stock. So I tried Autozone, Advance, and NAPA. I wasn't sure they really knew what they were looking for, so I showed them a picture. Apparently, they didn't appreciate my help. What is the likelihood that all major parts retailers in a major metropolitan area are out of fuel gauges at the same time, although their computer says they have it, AND the stores aren't aware of this defficiency?
The counter robots were similarly unable to locate parking light bulbs. I found the bulbs, no help from them.
As for the gasket, local retailers do not carry this part, or even recognize that it exists, because it isn't listed in their system at all.
Post by: Fierofool on March 04, 2018, 07:57:27 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on March 04, 2018, 08:01:37 pm
I'm wondering of the problem could be that I have a heat-coated EGR mount plate. I put the question to TFS. I believe they discontinued selling this product, and this could be the reason.
Post by: Fierofool on March 04, 2018, 08:32:33 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on March 05, 2018, 06:32:51 pm
The only real complaint I have about the engine is that the MPG is low. The flooding/burning oil should be a separate issue, but perhaps not.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on March 15, 2018, 08:21:14 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on March 15, 2018, 08:22:58 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on April 02, 2018, 06:19:31 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on April 20, 2018, 03:29:46 am
Post by: GTXVette on April 20, 2018, 07:44:34 am
Post by: GTRS Fiero on April 20, 2018, 08:19:40 am
Post by: Fierofool on April 20, 2018, 11:37:11 am
Post by: GTRS Fiero on April 20, 2018, 12:38:26 pm
Perhaps the oil does get dark, but I've run new engines through several oil changes, and still had almost clear oil.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on April 23, 2018, 06:20:34 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on May 26, 2018, 10:02:06 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on May 26, 2018, 10:15:34 pm
1. Rather than the usual 16 MPG, I got about 28 (8 gallons in 237 miles) at 80 MPH.
2. The engine kept cutting out on me, as if it wasn't getting fuel. Usually, this was just a pause, but once I lost power for several seconds, and another time, almost didn't get it re-started.
3. The AC never got more than cool.
4. The engine ran almost at the red for temp, for the first tank of fuel, which got me about 22MPG, then for the 28MPG tank, it ran about halfway. I noticed with the first tank that the engine ran hotter at 70+ MPH than at 50 MPH.
5. When downshifting, it went to second gear, which is about 6K RPM. Adjustment needed.
I was thinking that maybe the engine got heat-soaked. I will say that above 80 MPH, the engine comes to life.
Changing injectors. Not liking the Accel brand.
Post by: f85gtron on May 28, 2018, 08:08:25 am
I learned something new yesterday: the injectors need to match. If you have a "matched" set of injectors that aren't identical, your ECU will have problems figuring things out. Apparently, the ECU knows something about the injectors, liking some types, but not other types.close. the ecm doesn't know anything about the injectors, BUT, it is programmed with dwells, offsets, holds, algorithms that start the opening process and closing process for each shot, based on fuel pump voltage, battery voltage, map, and some other things I've forgotten.
so, those calcs are only good for one part number injector. if another model is installed, that's when the fun starts. the only remedies are to reprogram the ecm, or install the proper injector.
to that end, yes, the injectors should at least match, if not be correct too.
this is the reason pintle vs. disk is a valid argument.
hope this helps
Post by: GTRS Fiero on May 28, 2018, 08:12:03 am
Post by: f85gtron on May 28, 2018, 09:37:11 am
either 17# or Ford 305 injectors (19#). I've got the Ford injectors, but lowered the maps to around 45% duty cycle (from 70%), which doesn't make sense, but it works.
the factory 17# should work well, as long as they match. Did you go 7730? i can't remember.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on May 28, 2018, 09:41:13 am
Post by: f85gtron on May 28, 2018, 11:07:32 am
you'll have hunting idle, weird acceleration characteristics. basically, picture a dog chasing its tail. your ecm is looking for the sweet spot, but it's constantly changing and it isn't where it's supposed to be.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on May 31, 2018, 06:48:59 pm
Post by: Fierofool on May 31, 2018, 07:43:42 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on May 31, 2018, 07:46:04 pm
How did the Fiero originally do without that tube?
Post by: Fierofool on May 31, 2018, 09:16:28 pm
The PCV valve is in the trunk side valve cover. The front metal hose doesn't have a PCV valve in it.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on May 31, 2018, 09:25:53 pm
When the recall was done on my '88, maybe they were lazy. The intake tube was replaced, and the metal tube that runs from the front valve cover to the intake tube was installed, but the air cannister wasn't capped, and the metal tube against the firewall was not removed--or capped. I restored the cannister I had, capped that hole, and installed new gaskets. I capped, then later removed the tube against the firewall. My cannister was replaced with one that isn't as nice, but it doesn't have that hole. I have no idea what happened to that gasket, so I'll have to get another one.
In my '86 Fiero, someone cut a hole in the intake tube and duct-taped the metal tube from the valve cover into place.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on June 13, 2018, 05:55:01 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on June 18, 2018, 06:47:53 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on June 29, 2018, 04:18:55 am
Still no cruise. Awaiting parts, but USPS lost them.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on July 03, 2018, 07:17:28 pm
Have new matching injectors.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on July 05, 2018, 05:56:06 pm
Found the right side transmission seal and the pan gasket are leaking. Also the harness is stuck behind the coolant crossover tube. Gotta pull the cradle. Joy.
Going to go with studs for the exhaust manifolds. Waiting on gaskets.
Going to replace the axle nuts and inner seals. I see another alignment in my near future.
Post by: Raydar on July 05, 2018, 06:07:22 pm
...The brand new Rodney cat is bad.
How did you arrive at that conclusion? Brand new cats don't arrive "bad". Stuff from Rodney is especially high quality.
How could you tell?
If it failed, it was probably due to excessive fuel (I finished off a well-used cat, due to a bad O2 sensor) or some other form of overheating.
Going to replace the axle nuts and inner seals. I see another alignment in my near future.
If you don't remove the struts from the knuckles, you really don't need an alignment. Everything else will bolt back together.
I've removed cradles from my '88s repeatedly. As long as the strut/knuckle remains bolted together as an assembly, you can pretty much disassemble whatever you need to. This include the long bolts, trailing links and lateral links.
Just bolt it all back together. Everything should be fine. Seriously.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on July 05, 2018, 06:19:12 pm
I've done the strut/knuckle removal. True, didn't need an alignment then. This time, pulling the cradle. May put Rodney's girders on. That requires removing the long bolt. That left wheel bearing was an issue, last time I tried to not remove the knuckle. I think the angle of the axle shaft damaged the bearing. I don't want to damage the new bearing.
Also, will probably replace the tie rods, ball joints, and control arm bushings in the front.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on July 05, 2018, 06:20:21 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on July 09, 2018, 07:11:40 pm
One rust spot found on the trunk, so that will need to be fixed.
Still don't know why it was cutting out.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on July 10, 2018, 07:59:38 am
Post by: Fierofool on July 10, 2018, 10:12:09 am
Post by: TopNotch on July 10, 2018, 12:47:07 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on July 10, 2018, 05:40:14 pm
What happens if you add a cat? Run any differently?
Post by: TopNotch on July 10, 2018, 05:57:10 pm
Hmmm. So my exhaust will smell?
What happens if you add a cat. Run any differently?
No difference at all if it's a good cat.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on July 10, 2018, 06:08:40 pm
Found the cause for smoke on startup. The transmission vacuum modulator is bad, and ATF was being sucked into the intake.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on July 12, 2018, 04:55:52 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on July 13, 2018, 05:40:08 pm
If it seems I'm being picky, I guess I am.
Post by: Fierofool on July 13, 2018, 05:50:58 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on July 13, 2018, 05:58:50 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on July 13, 2018, 06:01:18 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on July 15, 2018, 10:25:34 am
Post by: GTRS Fiero on July 16, 2018, 07:20:41 pm
While the cradle is out, small issues with insulation were addressed, along with a few rust spots. The rust on the strut hats has also been addressed.
The broken plug wire retainter clip was replaced, and the plug wires are now routed correctly and the correct length.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on July 17, 2018, 05:43:54 pm
Post by: Fierofool on July 17, 2018, 10:49:47 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on July 18, 2018, 06:26:10 am
Post by: GTRS Fiero on July 19, 2018, 06:45:35 pm
AC wouldn't hold a charge. Found 2 bad o-rings. Will see if the AC holds a charge overnight.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on July 21, 2018, 07:30:30 am
How? They are on a fixed mounting flange and can only be put on one way.
The control lines.
Post by: TopNotch on July 21, 2018, 08:38:21 am
Post by: GTRS Fiero on July 21, 2018, 08:46:50 am
The issues with the gauges, cruise, and EGR should be fixed. Again, we'll see.
Post by: Fierofool on July 21, 2018, 08:49:06 am
Post by: GTRS Fiero on July 21, 2018, 08:54:02 am
Post by: Fierofool on July 21, 2018, 04:04:47 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on July 22, 2018, 12:42:23 pm
The oil pressure runs at 80. Hmmm. Otherwise, the gauges seem to be OK.
Still need to fix a few issues, but getting close.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on July 23, 2018, 07:03:25 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on July 26, 2018, 06:31:03 pm
Still need to charge the AC and figure out where the coolant smell is coming from.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on July 30, 2018, 07:41:24 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on July 31, 2018, 05:44:26 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on August 02, 2018, 10:32:53 pm
Drive a few hundred miles, no brakes. Eventually found a brake hose had rubbed through and leaked out all the brake fluid. No brake hose available locally. Clamped up the hose with vise grips, filled 'er up with fluid, and headed home.
Post by: Fierofool on August 02, 2018, 11:49:23 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on August 03, 2018, 12:28:20 am
Get this. When it got dark, I turned on my headlights. Something seemed odd, but I didn't realize what it was until dusk: no backlighting on the gauges. Made sure the dimmer switch was plugged in. Made sure the dimmer module was plugged in. Checked the fuses.
Finally, I turned the dimmer switch ON, and behold! Backlighting! Woops.
Those vise grips rode back there for several hundred miles.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on August 03, 2018, 07:06:10 pm
I hope this isn't commonplace.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on August 04, 2018, 11:32:58 am
There is something that sounds loose. I can't seem to figure out what it is. Whatever it is, it's over my left shoulder. I hear the sound when going over bumps at any speed, and when shifting around 20MPH. Sometimes, it sounds like a bolt grating through a hole; other times it sounds like a loose window. Sometimes, the sound seems to originate from the strut tower area; other times from the area right below the B-pillar; sometimes from the B-pillar area itself, about the area of the striker. The door is closed tightly, the window and windows lift mechanism are tight. I pulled the left wheel and verified that the strut and tri-links are all tight.
Any ideas?
Post by: Fierofool on August 04, 2018, 06:50:58 pm
Post by: Raydar on August 04, 2018, 07:00:43 pm
...
There is something that sounds loose. I can't seem to figure out what it is. Whatever it is, it's over my left shoulder. I hear the sound when going over bumps at any speed, and when shifting around 20MPH. Sometimes, it sounds like a bolt grating through a hole; other times it sounds like a loose window. Sometimes, the sound seems to originate from the strut tower area; other times from the area right below the B-pillar; sometimes from the B-pillar area itself, about the area of the striker. The door is closed tightly, the window and windows lift mechanism are tight. I pulled the left wheel and verified that the strut and tri-links are all tight.
Any ideas?
Stand beside the door and throw your hip against it, where it latches. See if you find your rattle. It's possible that the striker bolt has worn.
People seem to like the Ford striker bolts that are available in the "HELP" section at the parts stores. They are a few thousandths larger.
Post by: Raydar on August 04, 2018, 07:04:56 pm
I have an issue on throttle tip-in. If I'm at a stop, with the engine idling, and I open the throttle, the engine sounds as if it takes a breath then goes. It doesn't just go. No idea why.
Any ideas?
The equivalent of an "accelerator pump shot" is triggered when you step on the throttle. The TPS is about the only thing that will affect that. Or maybe ignition timing.
Try adjusting the "tang" on the throttle position sensor, for a slightly higher TPS voltage. (If you have a way to monitor it. Otherwise, just bend it a bit so that the TPS is a little more 'ahead of itself" than it is now.)
Post by: GTRS Fiero on August 04, 2018, 07:21:13 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on August 04, 2018, 08:01:52 pm
Post by: Fierofool on August 04, 2018, 09:15:50 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on August 04, 2018, 09:26:27 pm
Post by: Raydar on August 05, 2018, 09:31:51 am
Be cautious with the hip check and don't get too aggressive. My passenger door is cracked from the belt molding to the top, right along the back edge of the door. I think it may have been from someone hip or butt-checking the door to close it.
Ouch.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on August 05, 2018, 10:10:28 am
Post by: Fierofool on August 05, 2018, 02:44:16 pm
Post by: Raydar on August 05, 2018, 04:01:25 pm
I was told that, once plugs have been flooded, the plugs are ruined, and cannot be re-used.
...
It depends upon how badly they are "carboned up".
It's possible for plugs to be "killed' that way, but it take more effort than having been flooded one time.
When my car was in the paint shop, they apparently started it up, moved it 40 feet, and then turned it off. Many times. Also left it out in the rain where the plug holes filled with water.
When I started it up to drive it home, it woke up pissed. Skipped and stumbled most the way home. Don't recall if it cleared it's throat, or if I had to change the plugs.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on August 06, 2018, 09:03:40 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on August 07, 2018, 06:15:57 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on August 08, 2018, 08:06:12 pm
Post by: Fierofool on August 08, 2018, 10:31:36 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on August 08, 2018, 10:35:43 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on August 12, 2018, 08:53:19 pm
Going to check fluids after the engine cools. Maybe tomorrow.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on August 18, 2018, 10:48:36 am
Transmission fluid is red and smells good. Forgot it needs to be checked hot.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on September 02, 2018, 08:38:07 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on September 16, 2018, 08:20:02 am
Post by: Fierofool on September 16, 2018, 11:47:25 am
Using the picture in the Merchandise section, indicate the area on the adapter plate where the gasket is blowing. Maybe it will help us to diagnose it.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on September 17, 2018, 08:11:28 pm
I think this gasket was a week old, a few hundred miles of driving. No purple gasket left. I marked both the missing pieces, and the piece that fell into the y-pipe.
I was not implying an issue with the EGR adapter. I think the issue is the mount block.
Anyway, I replaced the gasket, again, and tightened the heck out of the nuts. I'll drive it for a few days to see what happens.
Post by: Fierofool on September 17, 2018, 10:32:06 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on September 17, 2018, 11:05:51 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on September 27, 2018, 08:04:13 pm
Post by: Fierofool on September 27, 2018, 08:16:34 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on September 27, 2018, 08:19:22 pm
Post by: Fierofool on September 27, 2018, 08:21:07 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on September 27, 2018, 08:22:25 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on September 30, 2018, 04:11:57 pm
Post by: Fierofool on September 30, 2018, 05:09:08 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on September 30, 2018, 05:13:57 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on October 07, 2018, 08:52:09 pm
Post by: TopNotch on October 07, 2018, 09:28:07 pm
I am having the oddest issue...Have you ever gone a week without an issue? The Fiero gods must not like you.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on October 07, 2018, 10:00:22 pm
On the other hand, some people apparently either don't notice or don't care about these things
Post by: f85gtron on October 09, 2018, 04:06:56 am
Post by: GTRS Fiero on October 09, 2018, 08:09:12 am
Post by: Fierofool on October 09, 2018, 09:11:27 am
Post by: GTRS Fiero on October 09, 2018, 09:15:30 am
Post by: Fierofool on October 09, 2018, 08:41:58 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on October 09, 2018, 08:52:34 pm
Post by: Fierofool on October 09, 2018, 08:58:55 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on October 09, 2018, 09:00:53 pm
I haven't pulled any engine myself since the '80's, when I changed a seized V6 to a V8 in a pickup truck.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on October 16, 2018, 07:01:23 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on October 19, 2018, 09:53:51 pm
Post by: PK on October 20, 2018, 02:37:51 am
Post by: GTRS Fiero on October 20, 2018, 05:28:49 am
My Fiero has a lot of non-stock items, so that first inspection after the swap (this inspection) is a bit of a worry.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on November 02, 2018, 02:14:44 am
Post by: Raydar on November 02, 2018, 05:40:48 am
As you're about to stop, it probably kicks the fuel back on, to stop the engine from stalling.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on November 02, 2018, 06:14:09 am
Post by: Raydar on November 02, 2018, 08:39:43 am
Post by: GTRS Fiero on November 02, 2018, 08:45:04 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on November 10, 2018, 08:09:15 pm
Post by: TopNotch on November 10, 2018, 09:13:42 pm
Ran like a champ for 189 miles, but a bit warm. Got to the library late, so it was closed.
189 miles to go to a library? That's what I call dedication to reading! ;)
Post by: GTRS Fiero on November 10, 2018, 10:22:39 pm
I'm a country boy, though. 189 miles for a good book isn't unusual. Growing up, it was 7.5 hours in drive time, round trip, to go to the big library.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on November 18, 2018, 09:29:34 am
Post by: GTRS Fiero on December 16, 2018, 09:43:00 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on December 16, 2018, 09:48:33 pm
I am having the oddest issue, where there is an i termittent sound. This sound sounds like the bathroom faucet is turned on and water is pouring out, then the faucet is turned off, just like a faucet. The engine sound does not change, and I'm unable to find any other effects. The sound often starts after I hit a bump. Sometimes, letting off the accelerator causes the sound to stop, or at least the sound stops at that time. Not always, though.
I drove about 400 miles today to get a picture. Aside from the check engine light coming on when I let off the throttle, and the EGR gasket blowing again, it was a nice drive. But that noise is getting more frequent--and apparent. I guess soon it'll be easy to diagnose.
It could be the heater core thing. One thing I noticed, is that the gauge indicates hot, for the first 30 miles or so of a run, then runs exactly at 220. Not hot, as in in the red, but just below that.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on February 14, 2019, 05:16:20 am
Post by: Fierofool on February 14, 2019, 09:36:12 am
During operation, oil is pumped up to the valve train and some of it runs down the rocker arms onto the valve springs and valve stem. There is also some oil splatter. This lubricates the exposed portion of the valve stem as it moves up and down through the valve guide. The valve stem seal is located just inside the top of the valve stem guide.
When the engine is stopped, residual oil flows down the valve stem and puddles on top of the seal area. If the seal is worn, the oil will seep past it and travel down to puddle on top of the valve if it's closed. If it's in an open position, it continues to collect in the combustion chamber.
Upon starting, this oil is quickly flashed off in the initial combustion cycles, creating the brief blue cloud. If it continues, it could be an indication that the seals and or guides are badly worn, or that the cylinder bore and rings are worn beyond service limits.
Post by: Raydar on February 14, 2019, 12:23:06 pm
The general consensus was, "If it's not going through a lot of oil, don't worry about it."
Post by: GTRS Fiero on February 14, 2019, 05:34:16 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on February 19, 2019, 09:30:25 pm
Lately, I'm wondering if it is sensitive to humudity.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on February 24, 2019, 09:31:06 am
Post by: GTRS Fiero on March 04, 2019, 05:58:57 pm
TFS says there have been no such issues with the heat-coated EGR mount plate. They suggested that I find out why the exhaust is getting so hot. Surely, that much heat would cause problems for other gaskets, as well, such as the one on the top of the mount plate.
The only real complaint I have about the engine is that the MPG is low. The flooding/burning oil should be a separate issue, but perhaps not.
Well, TFS has the heat-coated EGR mount blocks back in stock. Pricey.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on March 31, 2019, 04:04:22 pm
I would check the hot oil pressure at idle, with a mechanical gauge. Then you can determine if your electric sending unit and gauge are accurate.
Well, this is fun. These gauges are hard to come by.
Post by: Fierofool on March 31, 2019, 07:45:47 pm
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/bosch-gauges-style-line-2-mechanical-oil-pressure-gauge-white-face-fst-8206/10717222-P?searchTerm=oil+pressure+gauge
Post by: GTRS Fiero on March 31, 2019, 09:17:40 pm
Post by: TopNotch on March 31, 2019, 10:15:48 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on March 31, 2019, 10:27:37 pm
Post by: Fierofool on March 31, 2019, 10:54:21 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on April 07, 2019, 12:15:22 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on April 08, 2019, 05:13:17 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on April 27, 2019, 08:59:46 am
Post by: GTRS Fiero on April 27, 2019, 12:53:57 pm
Post by: Fierofool on April 27, 2019, 04:30:59 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on April 27, 2019, 04:33:07 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on May 04, 2019, 09:00:40 am
Post by: NoMad on May 04, 2019, 04:15:35 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on May 04, 2019, 04:50:39 pm
Edit: I do have all new engine and transmission mounts. Everything related to suspension in the rear has been replaced, except the springs and the actual sway bar.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on May 15, 2019, 09:04:04 pm
Post by: Fierofool on May 15, 2019, 09:40:55 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on May 15, 2019, 09:43:30 pm
Post by: Fierofool on May 15, 2019, 09:54:39 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on May 15, 2019, 10:06:30 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on May 25, 2019, 07:04:01 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on May 26, 2019, 01:04:13 pm
Someone broke into my truck last night, and stole my Mentos.
Today, my Fiero will not idle, so I have to keep 1 foot on the gas. Rather inconvenient. While driving through the road destruction, the idle drops, so the engine dies.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on May 28, 2019, 10:10:48 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on June 08, 2019, 09:10:58 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on June 20, 2019, 09:22:26 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on June 27, 2019, 05:36:40 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on June 27, 2019, 06:30:23 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on July 01, 2019, 05:49:44 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on July 01, 2019, 06:56:52 pm
Now on to the oil loss issues.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on July 02, 2019, 07:48:42 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on July 06, 2019, 09:42:24 am
Post by: GTRS Fiero on July 08, 2019, 08:37:16 pm
The compression in each cylinder is between 175 & 180 PSI, so the rings appear to be tight. 3 PSI variance between cylinders would seem to be acceptable on a street car.
Replacing the plugs again.
Going to add a paper gasket to the "distributor".
Post by: GTRS Fiero on July 14, 2019, 09:13:42 pm
My new AC dryer fell apart, meaning that the weld between the top and bottom came apart. Annoying. At least it wasn't installed yet.
Post by: Fierofool on July 14, 2019, 10:10:56 pm
Driving a car with a clogged cat won't burn out the blockage. Remember, that part of the exhaust system gets hot enough to glow and can easily cause a fire if one should park over an area with high grass. Driving it may cause some of the chunks to dislodge and pass on into the muffler or even be expelled out the exhaust, but the material won't burn away. It's more likely to clog the muffler.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on July 14, 2019, 10:14:25 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on July 15, 2019, 08:05:48 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on July 18, 2019, 06:30:39 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on July 19, 2019, 05:23:17 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on July 19, 2019, 10:13:14 pm
New problem. There seems to be feedback through the speakers while the radio is off. Maybe just 1 speaker.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on July 20, 2019, 09:47:53 pm
No check engine light, no dying, no faucet sounds.
Tried some highway, and some city. Repeatedly came off highway and idled at a stop. No dying.
Brakes seemed a bit soft, so bled the heck out of them. Supplied a transfusion of DOT3. I guess it is what it is, but think the rear pads are probably soaked with oil, and need to be replaced.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on July 21, 2019, 07:28:44 am
Post by: Fierofool on July 21, 2019, 07:55:58 am
Post by: GTRS Fiero on July 21, 2019, 08:20:58 am
Post by: GTRS Fiero on July 21, 2019, 08:23:17 am
Post by: Fierofool on July 21, 2019, 09:07:52 am
I hadn't been having any issues getting 35 MPH on the highway, even with some city driving.
Try driving in Atlanta traffic. You won't get over 15 MPH. ;) And probably not over 15 MPG either.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on July 21, 2019, 11:52:40 am
Post by: GTRS Fiero on July 21, 2019, 01:54:44 pm
Somehow, my formerly-quiet Fiero now has door rattle. Not sure how that happened.
Tightened the door everything. Seems to be quieter. Maybe my imagination?
Post by: GTRS Fiero on July 21, 2019, 11:05:09 pm
No check engine light, no dying, no faucet sounds.
Typed too soon. The check engine light did come on, once. I don't know why, yet, but will investigate after the engine bay cools off.
It did die on me. Apparently, no driving, while the engine is warm.
I think the faucet is not the IAC. Much worse. It also sounds worse, now.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on July 22, 2019, 08:47:59 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on July 24, 2019, 06:42:45 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on July 25, 2019, 07:40:28 pm
Post by: Fierofool on July 25, 2019, 07:51:52 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on July 25, 2019, 07:54:17 pm
Post by: Fierofool on July 25, 2019, 08:14:51 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on July 25, 2019, 09:03:57 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on July 27, 2019, 07:44:51 pm
Post by: Fierofool on July 27, 2019, 08:11:02 pm
That's the only way I know. :(
Post by: GTRS Fiero on July 27, 2019, 08:12:58 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on July 28, 2019, 07:40:07 pm
True temperature should show just shy of the needle being straight down.
Continuing to monitor this.
5 hours of driving with it here:
Sometimes here:
Sorry about the poor picture quality.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on July 29, 2019, 07:30:11 pm
It does not seem likely that a bad burn would function at all, but not my thing.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on July 29, 2019, 08:01:49 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on August 04, 2019, 01:22:37 pm
Post by: TopNotch on August 04, 2019, 03:52:37 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on August 04, 2019, 06:06:55 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on August 10, 2019, 02:26:11 pm
Replaced the O2 sensor. Oddly, that made the rich issue worse. So, I guess I'll put the old sensor back in.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on August 14, 2019, 09:53:20 pm
Post by: TopNotch on August 14, 2019, 10:00:01 pm
Is it dooable, to replace the water pump without dropping the cradle?Yes, but it's been a while since I did one (way back when I had my red SE), and I can't remember a lot of the details. I do remember that you have to be very careful tightening one of the bolts.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on August 14, 2019, 10:02:18 pm
Post by: TopNotch on August 14, 2019, 10:32:11 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on August 14, 2019, 10:34:15 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on August 17, 2019, 09:20:13 am
Post by: GTRS Fiero on August 17, 2019, 05:38:26 pm
Here is the new VSS, as received:
With a bit of elbow grease, it looks a bit better:
The speedo is still 10 MPH off. >:(
The new VSS gear does have an additional tooth.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on August 17, 2019, 05:42:02 pm
If the coolant is getting hot, I can shut off the engine, and restart, and it will cool off, for as long as I run lower RPMs. Basically, at idle.
Since the water pump is driven by the engine, the higher the RPMs, the faster the water pump turns.
I believe I have one with a plastic impeller, and the impeller is loose on the shaft.
Of course, the proof is in the pudding, but is my reasoning sound? I don't want to replace the water pump for nothing.
Post by: NoMad on August 18, 2019, 11:59:59 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on August 19, 2019, 12:04:21 am
Post by: Fierofool on August 19, 2019, 08:29:56 am
Post by: NoMad on August 19, 2019, 03:53:53 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on August 19, 2019, 06:03:43 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on August 20, 2019, 09:27:35 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on August 21, 2019, 08:55:44 pm
Not to over tighten. There is air beneath one of the bolt holes, and if you over tighten, you'll break your brand new water pump. Most come with a warning sheet about that in the box.
I cannot find such a bolt. Maybe after the pump is off.
Post by: TopNotch on August 21, 2019, 10:08:53 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on August 21, 2019, 10:12:44 pm
I think some RTV got into the impeller.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on August 22, 2019, 07:25:38 pm
Post by: Fierofool on August 22, 2019, 07:33:30 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on August 22, 2019, 07:35:17 pm
Post by: PK on August 23, 2019, 01:09:28 am
I think it's #12 bolt that has a void behind so don't overtighten. I made a cotton reel shaped spacer to spread the load there.
The clamp holds the timing cover tight so that water doesn't end up in your oil!! You will need the clamp or homemade version.
The most onerous part of the job on mine was removing the old gasket detritus.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on August 23, 2019, 07:53:27 am
Post by: TopNotch on August 23, 2019, 10:09:39 am
Where does the clamp go?It's used to hold down the top of the timing cover while you have the pump off. See this thread (http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/132534.html) on Pennock's. The thread also shows the bolt with the gap that you must not over-tighten.
Edit: I think the torque for bolt 12 in the pictures showing torque values is wrong.
Post by: TopNotch on August 23, 2019, 10:50:06 am
Post by: GTRS Fiero on August 23, 2019, 06:27:20 pm
Thanks for the write-up.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on August 23, 2019, 08:28:29 pm
Post by: Fierofool on August 23, 2019, 09:29:18 pm
Post by: TopNotch on August 24, 2019, 08:23:04 am
The clamp is the shiny thing under the large black wire bundle.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on August 24, 2019, 08:28:31 am
Post by: Fierofool on August 24, 2019, 03:42:00 pm
Post by: PK on August 25, 2019, 03:31:02 am
I have a hold bracket template should you need to make one.
Took me a while to work out why my bracket didn't fit at first...the alternator bracket needs removing first!!
Post by: GTRS Fiero on August 25, 2019, 05:41:56 am
I still can't figure out why the bolts are all different sizes.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on September 14, 2019, 06:33:46 pm
1. Remove the thermostat. No change, other than MPG, and it takes a while to heat up.
2. Leave the AC off. No change. The radiator/cooling fan does still come on, which leads me to believe that the temp gauge and CTS do aagree. Considering that the heat in the front compartment is considerable, and the hose from the engine is very hot, I think the coolant is circulating.
I considered replacing the temp gauge sender again, but that doesn't seem to be the issue. The thermostat has already been replaced, but removing it would isolate the problem, anyway. All the coolant hoses have been replaced.
The last thing I'm thinking may be the issue is a slight crimp in the passenger-side coolant tube. Ever since that happened, my temps have randomly been high. Since there was so much other stuff done at the same time, I haven't gotten to that, yet.
The engine never runs as if it's overheating, but it sure is warm.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on September 27, 2019, 07:09:49 pm
Post by: NoMad on September 28, 2019, 08:07:00 am
Post by: GTRS Fiero on September 28, 2019, 08:23:52 am
Post by: NoMad on September 28, 2019, 12:49:23 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on September 28, 2019, 12:51:12 pm
Post by: NoMad on September 28, 2019, 12:55:26 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on September 28, 2019, 12:59:20 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on October 04, 2019, 05:43:39 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on October 09, 2019, 05:57:15 pm
Post by: Fierofool on October 09, 2019, 09:15:41 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on October 09, 2019, 09:18:03 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on October 13, 2019, 10:40:09 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on October 14, 2019, 05:44:53 pm
Post by: Fierofool on October 14, 2019, 08:28:07 pm
With a different VSS, the check engine light came on, and the speedo is off by about .5 MPH at 60 MPH.
There are comparative tables that I heard Raydar refer to as 'Lookup Tables' where info from one sensor should fall within range of info on another table. TPS and VSS for example. The TPS should be reading at a certain level when the VSS output is at a certain level.
When my 2nd 85 broke the VSS shaft and gear, the car ran horribly because that input was telling the ECM that the car wasn't moving though the TPS said it should be. Air/fuel was affected, too because the ECM was trying to correct input for an engine that was supposed to only being revved according to the info it was receiving.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on October 15, 2019, 07:19:33 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on October 16, 2019, 08:10:58 pm
Post by: Fierofool on October 16, 2019, 08:14:00 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on October 16, 2019, 08:15:25 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on October 17, 2019, 11:24:13 pm
It seems that my air/fuel mixture is off.
My "desired idle speed" gets down below 625.
And the idle drops when shifting into gear. I thought someone posted on here that their idle increased.
The gauges read exactly what the ECU shows, which I guess is a good thing.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on October 18, 2019, 08:51:58 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on October 20, 2019, 09:43:00 am
You need an infrared thermometer to check the temperature on the thermostat housing and compare it with the gauge.
I wonder. If the CTS and temp gauge sender show different values, what could be the cause?
Post by: Fierofool on October 20, 2019, 01:29:42 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on October 20, 2019, 01:31:36 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on October 21, 2019, 06:13:00 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on October 21, 2019, 09:14:14 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on October 22, 2019, 06:22:06 pm
Any idea how to read the code(s)?
Post by: TopNotch on October 22, 2019, 10:20:10 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on October 22, 2019, 10:22:53 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on November 02, 2019, 07:22:55 pm
I think the AFR is wrong, but I'm not sure what it should be.
Also, what should the resting TPS value be?
Post by: GTRS Fiero on November 09, 2019, 05:14:17 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on November 09, 2019, 07:54:15 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on November 14, 2019, 08:08:05 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on November 24, 2019, 06:31:00 pm
Aaaaah!
What do you do to fix this?
Michael
Post by: Fierofool on November 24, 2019, 06:38:37 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on November 24, 2019, 06:50:58 pm
Post by: Fierofool on November 24, 2019, 06:52:17 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on November 24, 2019, 07:04:14 pm
My issue is that the upper left side is all cracked and ratty-looking.
Post by: Fierofool on November 24, 2019, 07:29:01 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on November 24, 2019, 07:35:52 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on November 25, 2019, 09:36:19 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on November 26, 2019, 07:48:27 pm
There are entirely too many parameters to adjust. Hopefully, things are right, this round.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on December 07, 2019, 10:02:14 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on December 14, 2019, 12:20:40 pm
That looks really nasty.
Post by: Fierofool on December 14, 2019, 05:10:03 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on December 14, 2019, 06:28:02 pm
The crankshaft is supposed to be new.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on December 21, 2019, 11:38:49 am
Post by: GTRS Fiero on December 21, 2019, 11:44:06 am
Post by: TopNotch on December 21, 2019, 05:56:01 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on December 21, 2019, 05:58:23 pm
What is that thing with the notches?
I'm going to deal with the oil.
Post by: Fierofool on December 21, 2019, 10:09:42 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on December 28, 2019, 09:45:16 pm
I need to do some fuel mileage runs, but after the streets dry up. It's rainy and nasty outside.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on January 25, 2020, 10:54:43 am
Post by: TopNotch on January 25, 2020, 11:16:54 am
Post by: GTRS Fiero on January 25, 2020, 11:34:34 am
After shutting off the engine and restarting, the temp gauge showed a much lower temp. The radiator hose did eventually get hot.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on January 27, 2020, 11:01:46 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on February 02, 2020, 09:53:44 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on March 01, 2020, 06:56:06 pm
Post by: Fierofool on March 01, 2020, 09:36:41 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on March 01, 2020, 09:38:41 pm
Post by: Slyp on March 02, 2020, 01:46:23 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on March 02, 2020, 06:58:12 pm
Post by: TopNotch on March 02, 2020, 09:25:07 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on March 02, 2020, 09:28:18 pm
Post by: NoMad on March 03, 2020, 02:01:18 am
Post by: GTRS Fiero on March 07, 2020, 05:18:38 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on March 07, 2020, 05:34:04 pm
At the next parts store, the employees told me that I should just buy whatever they had in stock, because all fuses are the same, and all fuses fit all vehicles. Interesting point of view. We looked, and they didn't have anything that would fir the Fiero.
At the next parts store, the employees didn't know what fuses were. I couldn't help asking, "You do work here, don't you?". They assured me that they did. So, I asked, "This is an auto parts store, isn't it?" They assured me that it was. I agreed, "was" being the operative word. They offered to google what a fuse was. Very helpful.
At the next parts store, they had no fuses. Just what every car owner looks for: a parts store without parts. Maybe vehicles no longer need parts. For sure, the people employed at these stores are not needed.
So, I went looking online. Having never really thought about it, before, I always just got fuses that fit my application, but I have no idea what size these fuses are. Not mini fuses. What size am I seeking?
Post by: Slyp on March 07, 2020, 06:00:11 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on March 07, 2020, 06:03:32 pm
Post by: Fierofool on March 07, 2020, 08:16:02 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on March 07, 2020, 08:21:08 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on March 07, 2020, 08:21:55 pm
Post by: Slyp on March 08, 2020, 10:46:30 am
Post by: GTRS Fiero on March 08, 2020, 12:21:46 pm
With all the new parts that have been bad, newer is clearly not better; however, the LED's draw less current, and therefore are better for the wiring and battery.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on March 08, 2020, 12:52:02 pm
There are 4 chips on the back of the board, but they appear to be to make sure that the LED's will work, whichever way the board is connected.
Post by: Slyp on March 08, 2020, 03:20:47 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on March 08, 2020, 05:28:19 pm
Post by: Roger on March 10, 2020, 09:21:16 am
Post by: TopNotch on March 10, 2020, 09:53:16 am
Post by: Fierofool on March 10, 2020, 01:46:57 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on March 10, 2020, 06:05:32 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on March 13, 2020, 07:50:50 pm
That fuse is connected to trunk lite,trunk release, outside mirron, dome light,both door locks. Check if you have a short with a meter by disconnecting them. A bad bulb can cause a problem
The fuses arrived, today, and all appears to be good. I'm sure that the bulb contacts were shorting on the trunk wall. Thanks, DeShoe.
Post by: Slyp on March 14, 2020, 06:31:02 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on April 08, 2020, 06:57:47 pm
Post by: Slyp on April 09, 2020, 11:11:16 am
Post by: GTRS Fiero on April 09, 2020, 05:28:25 pm
I watched the compressor while someone hit the AC button. I think the compressor isn't engaging. The idle did not change, no load, nothing.
Post by: Slyp on April 09, 2020, 06:04:05 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on April 09, 2020, 06:06:54 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on June 07, 2020, 06:39:35 pm
Post by: Fierofool on June 07, 2020, 07:11:58 pm
Low refrigerant won't allow the compressor to come on. Also, bad pressure switches on the compressor or at the receiver/dryer will have the same effect.
Post by: scottb on June 07, 2020, 07:46:27 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on June 07, 2020, 07:48:31 pm
Post by: scottb on June 07, 2020, 07:57:02 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on June 07, 2020, 08:14:15 pm
I have 3 big issues: fuel leak, oil leak, and AC not working. I'm waiting on the engine bay to cool, before checking on the fuel again.
When the AC did work, the dryer would get icy, but it was just cool in the cabin.
Post by: scottb on June 07, 2020, 08:36:51 pm
Post by: scottb on June 07, 2020, 08:40:12 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on June 08, 2020, 07:54:33 am
2 wedding anniversaries???????? Ummmmmmmm not sure what to say
2 imminent wedding anniversaries. I have another in January.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on June 08, 2020, 07:55:33 am
did the compressor ever fail? Those symptoms sound like a case of black death where the compressor failed and the evaporator is stopped up. I don't think it can be cleaned. Only cure is replacement
The last compressor did fail. Since then, just about everything has been replaced.
Post by: Fierofool on June 08, 2020, 08:02:12 am
Post by: GTRS Fiero on June 08, 2020, 08:04:43 am
Post by: GTRS Fiero on July 03, 2020, 05:08:17 pm
My poor Fiero seems to have a fuel leak again. Trying to figure out where.
I checked again, high and low for a leak. Nothing. It smelled like raw fuel, the other day. The injdctors are dry, with no evidence of having leaked. I ran the engine for a while, but neither saw nor smelled any leaks. So, I went for a short drive. Nothing. I made several stops. Nothing. Filled up with fuel. Nothing.
Rrrrrrgh!
Post by: GTRS Fiero on July 19, 2020, 10:12:43 am
Post by: GTRS Fiero on August 07, 2020, 05:05:25 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on August 07, 2020, 05:06:35 pm
You probably need to check and see if you have freon and there is pressure in the system
Bingo. No pressure. It appears that the compressor itself is leaking. Joy. This compressor isn't even 4 years old, yet.
Post by: Fierofool on August 07, 2020, 06:24:20 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on August 07, 2020, 06:25:35 pm
Parts used to be made better.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on August 08, 2020, 06:33:17 pm
For the exhaust gasket at the EGR mount block, the heat-coated mount block had a small imperfection in the mating surface, right where the gasket blew. We used high-temp RTV. If that holds for more than a few hundred miles, maybe we have something.
For the oil leak, we pulled the seal on the crankshaft at the timing cover and replaced it. We changed the oil. Drove home. Drips under the same spot. About a 3-inch diameter puddle on the ground. Joy.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on August 09, 2020, 03:33:05 pm
This is an ongoing issue.
Post by: The Art Doctor on August 09, 2020, 03:43:20 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on August 09, 2020, 04:16:47 pm
The odd part was the gauge moving up and down while the engine was off. Could be a bad ground.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on August 14, 2020, 07:08:16 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on August 22, 2020, 06:07:58 pm
Looking at the RTV, it blew out of there in a gooey mess. So much for that. I think it lasted for 50 miles.
I got 20 more EGR gaskets.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on August 28, 2020, 07:20:26 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on August 30, 2020, 04:23:58 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on August 31, 2020, 08:21:09 pm
Looking at my left foot, I saw a fuse was blown. When I got home, I replaced the fuse, which blew as soon as I put it in. Joy. I checked the washer fluid tank, which was about half full.
Any idea where to start looking?
Post by: GTRS Fiero on August 31, 2020, 09:42:16 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on September 03, 2020, 06:53:35 pm
The temp on the temp sensor was 309F. The temp on the CTS was 189F. The temp on the manifold was 547.
Post by: The Art Doctor on September 03, 2020, 09:03:08 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on September 03, 2020, 09:46:20 pm
What I need to know is the temp other people see on their Fiero.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on September 04, 2020, 07:08:57 pm
Post by: scottb on September 05, 2020, 07:27:24 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on September 05, 2020, 07:56:17 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on September 05, 2020, 09:27:34 pm
Post by: scottb on September 05, 2020, 09:49:26 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on September 05, 2020, 10:01:21 pm
Post by: scottb on September 06, 2020, 05:26:35 am
Post by: GTRS Fiero on September 06, 2020, 09:11:55 am
Post by: Fierofool on September 06, 2020, 12:18:25 pm
Post by: Raydar on September 06, 2020, 02:28:03 pm
Flex-Seal ;D
I would think there would be, (or if there isn't, there really should be) a gasket under the top of the piece, too, where it is fastened to the block.
Post by: scottb on September 06, 2020, 06:49:12 pm
Flex-Seal ;D
I would there should be, (or if there isn't, there really should be) a gasket under the top of the piece, too, where it is fastened to the block.
Steve I think you missed a word......
Post by: Raydar on September 06, 2020, 08:13:42 pm
Steve I think you missed a word......
I guess my mind works faster than I can type. Or I type faster than my mind works. Or something. Whatever. Fixed.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on September 06, 2020, 09:07:19 pm
Whatever. Fixed.
Well, thanks. I'll check that confounded oil leak tomorrow. ;D
Post by: GTRS Fiero on September 08, 2020, 06:23:15 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on September 08, 2020, 07:00:27 pm
I almost suspect the water pump.
Post by: Fierofool on September 08, 2020, 09:42:35 pm
Replaced the gasket and O-ring.
I never knew there was a gasket for the distributor, or the DIS oil pump drive. Never heard anyone ever mention one. Just the O-ring.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on September 08, 2020, 09:44:31 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on September 08, 2020, 09:46:57 pm
Flex-Seal ;D
I would think there would be, (or if there isn't, there really should be) a gasket under the top of the piece, too, where it is fastened to the block.
Raydar gave me the idea.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on September 08, 2020, 09:48:07 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on September 09, 2020, 04:53:35 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on September 11, 2020, 06:58:17 pm
I'm having trouble finding a gasket I'm sure is correct.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on September 14, 2020, 07:19:23 pm
Post by: TopNotch on September 14, 2020, 11:01:55 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on September 14, 2020, 11:10:05 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on September 15, 2020, 11:35:14 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on September 21, 2020, 09:13:46 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on September 24, 2020, 06:25:13 pm
The only thing I can figure is that there is a short somewhere. Any idea where? The issue seems to be worse while the car is stopped--even in park, so not the brake pedal.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on November 06, 2020, 05:50:00 pm
Post by: Fierofool on November 06, 2020, 07:44:27 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on November 06, 2020, 07:55:20 pm
Post by: Fierofool on November 06, 2020, 07:58:16 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on November 06, 2020, 08:02:52 pm
Hmmm. The rear hub fits into that, but would seem to only be held in by the axle nut.
Oh, well. I can drive it. As long as I don't get on it hard, the axles probably won't come apart.
Post by: Fierofool on November 06, 2020, 08:08:54 pm
The nut is torqued at 200 lb. That holds the hub together. If you leave the stub end of the CV joint in place and remove the axle from the outboard CV it would keep the hub together.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on November 06, 2020, 08:12:21 pm
Only 200 lb?!!! Oops. I torqued them a bit higher. Well, they stayed tight.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on November 06, 2020, 08:14:36 pm
Post by: Fierofool on November 06, 2020, 09:04:02 pm
In this exploded view, you would leave the HOUSING intact and remove everything else. The nut on the end of the threaded stub compresses the hub against the flat surface of the housing, keeping the proper load on the hub bearings.
https://www.aa1car.com/library/cvjoint1.htm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on November 06, 2020, 09:17:17 pm
If I could disassemble it here, I could replace the axles here, so no need to move it somewhere else. I drove it about 300 miles, as is. Of course, it probably got worse as I drove it. Another 50 miles should be OK.
Post by: Fierofool on November 06, 2020, 10:15:51 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on November 06, 2020, 10:20:17 pm
We'll find out tomorrow.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on November 07, 2020, 03:13:32 pm
Post by: Fierofool on November 07, 2020, 04:36:59 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on November 07, 2020, 04:39:21 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on November 10, 2020, 07:00:54 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on November 16, 2020, 02:44:49 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on November 17, 2020, 07:08:40 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on November 17, 2020, 07:31:13 pm
No more clickety-clack.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on November 18, 2020, 06:52:38 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on November 22, 2020, 08:10:20 am
I had thought this was caused by being too tight, but now I'm being told that it is caused by being too loose. Which is it?
Post by: TopNotch on November 22, 2020, 09:06:36 am
Post by: GTRS Fiero on November 28, 2020, 10:01:04 am
These are custom wires. Joy.
Post by: The Art Doctor on November 28, 2020, 02:33:47 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on November 28, 2020, 02:38:55 pm
When you put the ECU in diagnostic mode, it ignores the sensor input, and runs on pre-determined values.
Post by: Fierofool on November 28, 2020, 04:29:29 pm
Due to the stumble, I decided to advance my timing just a hair. I know that advancing timing will often increase rpm at idle, but in my case, it dropped it back to around 1050 where it normally idles and the rpm wavering also went away. Well, almost. Maybe a 50 rpm variance.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on November 28, 2020, 04:31:49 pm
Post by: Fierofool on November 28, 2020, 04:37:34 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on November 28, 2020, 04:41:45 pm
The strokes, are intake, compression, power, and exhaust. Now that you mention it, the valves should be closed, by then.
Post by: The Art Doctor on November 28, 2020, 05:17:32 pm
Post by: Fierofool on November 28, 2020, 05:51:17 pm
Post by: The Art Doctor on November 28, 2020, 06:21:05 pm
Post by: Fierofool on November 28, 2020, 06:42:37 pm
It's possible that the outer ring on the damper has slipped, so you may not be getting a true reading. It may take a little playing with the distributor setting to achieve an optimal position.
Post by: The Art Doctor on November 28, 2020, 07:24:40 pm
On the 8 degrees timing I think I may have a mark off because I got the same reading for both 1 and 4 the same. Its probably very close right now.
Post by: Fierofool on November 28, 2020, 08:16:04 pm
It can be a bit of a chore and even dangerous to disconnect battery terminals. The negative is cramped in. The tool used on the positive post can make contact with other vehicle parts. If you want to clear trouble codes set in the ECM, disconnect the small tubular device that is just outside the battery case and is connected to the C500 wiring terminal near the negative terminal. That's the ECM constant power. It's a red wire, sometimes faded to orange or yellow.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on November 28, 2020, 09:54:32 pm
Post by: The Art Doctor on November 29, 2020, 09:47:45 am
Post by: Raydar on November 29, 2020, 10:22:10 am
It's how I set my 4.9. (I believe the timing ring has slipped. After setting it by ear, I hooked the timing light back up, just for grins. It "shows" 10-12 degrees more advance than the book calls for. When set to spec, using the light, it doesn't have enough power to pull a fat man from a donut shop.)
Post by: Raydar on November 29, 2020, 10:23:22 am
Hmmm. I think that one needs a new topic.
Possibly right...
Admins?
Post by: GTRS Fiero on November 29, 2020, 01:31:06 pm
Hmmm. I think that one needs a new topic.
Just a thought.
Post by: The Art Doctor on November 29, 2020, 01:44:46 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on December 19, 2020, 04:05:17 pm
Post by: The Art Doctor on December 19, 2020, 10:27:21 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on December 19, 2020, 10:29:30 pm
Post by: The Art Doctor on December 19, 2020, 10:38:22 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on December 19, 2020, 10:40:37 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on December 21, 2020, 05:57:32 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on December 21, 2020, 08:04:58 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on December 22, 2020, 06:53:59 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on December 22, 2020, 06:54:57 pm
Post by: Wreck It Ralph on December 22, 2020, 09:37:53 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on December 22, 2020, 10:12:28 pm
Post by: Wreck It Ralph on December 22, 2020, 10:13:17 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on December 22, 2020, 10:15:40 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on January 01, 2021, 08:37:01 am
Post by: Wreck It Ralph on January 01, 2021, 12:02:31 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on January 01, 2021, 12:04:22 pm
Post by: Wreck It Ralph on January 01, 2021, 12:17:36 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on January 01, 2021, 12:21:50 pm
98HP at the crank will not do it.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on January 01, 2021, 12:22:16 pm
Post by: Wreck It Ralph on January 01, 2021, 12:22:47 pm
Post by: Wreck It Ralph on January 01, 2021, 12:24:03 pm
Oh. I suspect torque breaks the wheels loose.
Generally yes. Torque and hp as you know don’t always correlate
Post by: GTRS Fiero on January 01, 2021, 12:25:27 pm
Post by: Wreck It Ralph on January 01, 2021, 12:29:46 pm
Well, I used to have torque.
Now this is an automatic so it can be slipping 1st gear clutches or slipping torque converter or misadjusted cable or governor. So all that power can be getting lost in the transmission.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on January 01, 2021, 12:31:22 pm
Post by: Wreck It Ralph on January 01, 2021, 12:33:15 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on January 01, 2021, 12:53:30 pm
Post by: Wreck It Ralph on January 01, 2021, 01:00:11 pm
When was the last full tune up? I assume you’ve checked the wires and cap?
Also find yourself one of these
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075DC58NS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_t1_Tk27Fb7D5K581
Best tune up pocket tool
I also have a tool that can check the insulation on the wires. You can get it cheap on Amazon
Post by: GTRS Fiero on January 01, 2021, 01:04:11 pm
Post by: Wreck It Ralph on January 01, 2021, 01:09:05 pm
Post by: Fierofool on January 01, 2021, 03:00:20 pm
Post by: Fierofool on January 01, 2021, 03:14:03 pm
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-19380-Spark-Tester/dp/B0002STS3U/ref=pd_sbs_263_1/134-6974985-8377458?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0002STS3U&pd_rd_r=af7ce9fe-bc4d-49bf-9ae5-d43b14ba9367&pd_rd_w=VlgDx&pd_rd_wg=uYZm3&pf_rd_p=ed1e2146-ecfe-435e-b3b5-d79fa072fd58&pf_rd_r=24JJ3ZHF75X45NAYD0MP&psc=1&refRID=24JJ3ZHF75X45NAYD0MP
My sister's van developed a bad miss with a misfire trouble code. The garage charged her $515 to replace the #5 coil and plugs. Dodge Journey.
Post by: Wreck It Ralph on January 01, 2021, 05:03:39 pm
Post by: The Art Doctor on January 01, 2021, 10:21:27 pm
Post by: Wreck It Ralph on January 01, 2021, 10:32:23 pm
Post by: Fierofool on January 01, 2021, 10:49:49 pm
Post by: Wreck It Ralph on January 01, 2021, 11:00:50 pm
Post by: Fierofool on January 01, 2021, 11:15:15 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on January 01, 2021, 11:21:20 pm
Yes. The intensity tells you a lot.
Color, too?
Post by: GTRS Fiero on January 01, 2021, 11:22:34 pm
Good. That's what I was hoping for.
Now, don't go grabbing the wire to test the intensity. Don't put it on your tongue. :D
Post by: Wreck It Ralph on January 01, 2021, 11:39:41 pm
Good. That's what I was hoping for.
Now, don't go grabbing the wire to test the intensity. Don't put it on your tongue. :D
Actually I’d wet my hand and run it on a wire to find weak insulation. No shock that it worked well. 😂
Post by: Fierofool on January 02, 2021, 08:11:26 am
Good. That's what I was hoping for.
Now, don't go grabbing the wire to test the intensity. Don't put it on your tongue. :D
So as not to hijack this thread, go to General Discussions for some shocking events.
Post by: Fierofool on January 05, 2021, 02:52:25 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on January 05, 2021, 05:48:51 pm
Post by: Fierofool on January 05, 2021, 06:16:29 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on January 17, 2021, 08:58:22 am
Michael, I have 3 GM OEM gaskets. They are graphite coated and I believe they have a wire mesh inside them. Email, text or PM me your address again and one will be in the mail in the morning.
If you still have these, would you send me a pic, please?
Post by: Fierofool on January 17, 2021, 09:13:25 am
I got my handy-dandy Lisle Spark Tester delivered at my doorstep on Sunday. Today, I decided to see what it might show the cause of the miss on my truck. Well, it showed nothing. So, I went to the Fiero. Nothing. I started looking closely at the bulb and it didn't have a filament. Amazon said throw it away and they'll send a replacement.
I received the free replacement spark tester. I haven't tried it but there is no filament in the bulb on this one, either. Does anyone have a spark tester of this type, without a filament in the bulb, and it works? Maybe all my vehicles just have spark too weak to show?
Post by: GTRS Fiero on January 17, 2021, 09:21:24 am
Post by: TopNotch on January 17, 2021, 09:57:04 am
I received the free replacement spark tester. I haven't tried it but there is no filament in the bulb on this one, either. Does anyone have a spark tester of this type, without a filament in the bulb, and it works? Maybe all my vehicles just have spark too weak to show?Maybe there's supposed to be a spark in the bulb, across the gap where the filament would be. That would make sense to me.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on January 17, 2021, 09:59:43 am
Post by: Fierofool on January 17, 2021, 10:23:54 am
Post by: GTRS Fiero on February 12, 2021, 05:36:54 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on February 12, 2021, 05:37:18 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on February 12, 2021, 06:50:19 pm
New sensor installed. Temp gauge reads correctly.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on February 21, 2021, 11:06:31 am
I took the Fiero for a drive. Still no cruise control. The engine dies when stopping.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on February 21, 2021, 05:30:03 pm
Joy.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on February 22, 2021, 07:03:24 pm
Found 2 more vacuum leaks, both at the throttle body.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on February 26, 2021, 08:19:05 am
Post by: GTRS Fiero on March 01, 2021, 05:58:41 pm
Post by: Fierofool on March 01, 2021, 06:52:41 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on March 01, 2021, 07:00:34 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on March 02, 2021, 06:47:02 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on March 04, 2021, 05:04:52 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on March 05, 2021, 10:03:59 pm
The wires to the EGR had melted, so had to be replaced. One of the wires was a ground wire--the same ground wire that goes to the TPS, so that likely explains the poor fuel economy, this last run. That or my right foot. Likely one of those things. Only 119 miles for 6.2 gallons. Anyway, the AFR was all over the place. Between that and the vacuum leak, well, it was not a happy camper.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on March 08, 2021, 05:50:57 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on March 09, 2021, 06:23:26 pm
Post by: Fierofool on March 09, 2021, 07:38:12 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on March 09, 2021, 07:42:40 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on March 10, 2021, 08:54:36 am
Post by: Fierofool on March 10, 2021, 09:12:38 am
Post by: GTRS Fiero on March 10, 2021, 10:04:23 am
Post by: GTRS Fiero on March 10, 2021, 04:18:12 pm
My hazard lights flash once, then go dead. Bad relay?
Replaced the relay. No change. If I unplug the relay, nothing. If I just push the hazard switch in part way, the lights come on and stay on. Leaning toward wiring or switch,
Post by: GTRS Fiero on March 19, 2021, 06:17:13 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on March 20, 2021, 05:36:55 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on March 26, 2021, 05:51:49 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on March 29, 2021, 05:47:29 pm
On the positive side, no vacuum leaks.
Post by: Fierofool on March 29, 2021, 06:33:53 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on March 29, 2021, 06:49:20 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on March 30, 2021, 05:16:37 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on April 01, 2021, 07:58:59 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on April 02, 2021, 07:22:11 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on April 10, 2021, 06:11:40 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on April 15, 2021, 06:32:57 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on April 24, 2021, 09:30:08 am
I have an issue with my oil light. It doesn't come on. The bulb is good (works on the volts side), and the socket is good. No voltage to the pins in the gauge. No oil light. Ideas?
This is a bad aux board. >:(
Post by: GTRS Fiero on April 24, 2021, 09:32:25 am
I have that sound like water through a faucet. It's intermittent. Turns on and off. Sometimes, it happend when I hit a bump in the road; sometimes while on smooth surfaces. A bit worried this may be the booster, since the noise seems to come from the front. Dunno what else it could be?
Post by: Fierofool on April 24, 2021, 06:06:39 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on April 24, 2021, 06:36:05 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on April 26, 2021, 09:34:03 pm
Post by: TopNotch on April 26, 2021, 09:40:42 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on April 26, 2021, 09:41:40 pm
Post by: Fierofool on April 26, 2021, 09:45:45 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on April 26, 2021, 09:55:08 pm
Post by: TopNotch on April 26, 2021, 10:52:22 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on April 26, 2021, 11:43:55 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on April 27, 2021, 06:58:14 pm
The only other thing is the heater core.
You may be right. Not sure how it would make that noise, though.
Post by: Fierofool on April 27, 2021, 07:07:07 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on April 27, 2021, 07:09:32 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on April 29, 2021, 06:39:07 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on May 02, 2021, 12:51:36 pm
Any ideas?
Post by: Fierofool on May 02, 2021, 01:17:31 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on May 02, 2021, 01:21:01 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on May 13, 2021, 07:06:04 pm