Georgia Fiero Club Forum
All Things Fiero => Club News => Topic started by: Fierofool on November 06, 2009, 10:56:01 pm
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Let me introduce you to the Little Duke Coupe. This is a base 88 Fiero Coupe with Air Conditioning as its only option. This is a one-owner vehicle and has only been driven by adults who were in their 40's when they purchased it.
This car is being given to the Georgia Fiero Club, and is intended to become our Pace Car and banner carrier. A number of our members have already agreed to participate in restoring and repainting the car to its original condition. It will be decorated with the Georgia Fiero Club logo and will represent us at parades and shows. It will also be available as a loaner car to any dues-paying member who is in temporary need of a car.
http://s624.photobucket.com/albums/tt324/charlessewell/Little%20Duke%20Coupe/
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I've still got your dash for that car, and the dual exhaust system.
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Make out a parts list of everything it needs & I'll see what I have. As I mentioned before, you're welcome to use my shop & tools as a place to work on it & store it if need be. When it comes time to paint, everyone can pitch in to sand it & I'll be glad to shoot it (& not with my Glock! LOL).
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"
Some people are like a Slinky, not good for anything, but they bring a smile to your face when you push them down a flight of stairs.
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So far, the only thing I know that it needs is a fuel pump. I'm having that installed tomorrow. It starts and runs with fuel poured down the throttle body and the pump relay activates. Then, I've gotta get a battery for it. Anybody have one to donate to the cause?
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Let me check.. I may have a good battery.....
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I just checked the battery.. It is only showing 2.68 volts.. Iam putting it on the charger and i will check it in the morning again.. If it's up and stays up I will bring it to the meeting..... Jerry
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If 85GT's battery doesn't work, I'll pick one up at Wal-Mart before the meeting.
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A good used one would be suitable. It has no power accessories, so it doesn't need a high amperage battery. Ashby didn't show up to replace the fuel pump, so it still isn't running.
Whodeanie has a set of 87 GT wheels with some used tires (RFTH spinout tires) that we can get for $50 if he hasn't already sold them. Except for a wing, it would make it look like a Formula. Robbie has a dual exhaust setup and a good 88 dash.
Once we get it up and going, I think it would be good if anyone who uses it, bring it back with some improvement of some kind. Maybe some fuzzy dice or dingleberries around the windshield or a put out or get out decal. ;D
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Buddy said you could have some of his dingleberries. How many you need. ;D ;D ;D
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As many as you can pick off and sew together.
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Thats between you and Buddy... ;D
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The Battery has been holding 12.79 VOLTS ALDAY.. I will bring it Saturday to the Meeting.... Jerry
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OK. I'll bring your climate control and your 4-speed throwout bearing.
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just checked the battery volts again at 12.61... appears to be a good battery
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I may have a fuel pump, if you need one. When I replaced the pump in my 88 duke, it turned out that the pump itself was not bad. The hose between the pump and line was. But I put the new pump in anyway.
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Ashby said he had a used 84 pump that he was going to install, but he never showed up. I just tried to call him and didn't get an answer. I don't know what's happened to him. It would save a little if we supplied the pump. Are you sure you don't need it for a backup? Could you hear the pump run when you turned on the ignition?
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Could you hear the pump run when you turned on the ignition?
And how! It was a very loud pump. The new AC Delco pump I put in is much quieter.
Edit: I just hope I didn't throw the thing away.
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If it was loud, it's probably on its way to failure. That's what's happening to the blue 86 GT. After driving for awhile, it starts getting loud, then the car quits. Have to wait a minute or two then you can drive again for awhile.
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Well, I couldn't find it anyway.
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Ashby came by Sunday and removed the tank. The fuel lines inside the tank were just a glob of black putty. We drained the gallon or so of what had been gasoline (4 years old) and he replaced the fuel pump, the lines in the tank and the sock filter. Got it all back in, installed the battery Jerry provided, poured in about 4 gallons of fresh gasoline and turned on the ignition. Got a good buzz from the pump. Switch off and on for about 4 times to get the fuel all the way to the throttle body then hit the starter.
No start. Poured some fuel into the engine and she fired off--and died. Did that several times but the car still won't run on its own. So Ashby went back underneath and pulled the line loose at the filter. Turned on the ignition and we still don't have fuel coming out, so at some later time, he will be back to drop the tank again to see what's gone wrong.
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Turn the key on and off a few times to build up pressure, then pull the injector. You should get a nice spray of gas when you do. Don't have your face directly over it. If you do get the spray, either the injector is bad or it's not getting any pulses.
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We cycled the ignition a number of times and also poured fuel into the throttle body. He took the line off at the filter.. No fuel is reaching the filter. And now, the fuel gauge that was showing nearly empty before the pump replacement is pegged all the way to the right top.
I've since gone back several times and cycled the switch and tried to start it without success.
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Sounds like he didn't get the ground wire hooked up good.
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The pump was cycling but we couldn't get any fuel out of the lines.
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Probably need to blow the lines out with an air hose from the pump to the filter.
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Ashby called this morning and said he'd be back tomorrow to get the Duke Coupe running. He said he thought he had hooked up the wiring backwards. Robbie said he was thinking the same thing.
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SHE'S ALIVE!! SHE'S ALIVE!!
Ashby came out today and fixed whatever it was before I got back from Church. Installed a new fuel filter and he was getting fuel there, but it still wouldn't start, though. Didn't seem to be getting the fuel up to the throttle body. He took the supply line loose at the throttle body and eventually got fuel there then the injector wasn't spraying. A little cranking while tapping on the injector with a wrench did the trick. Fuel gauge is still stuck to the far right, though.
It started and sounded great, but Ashby started yelling to "turn it off before we have a fire!" The valve cover is leaking badly. Will be getting one of those and installing it as soon as the weather allows.
The alternator isn't charging, so the next thing will be to replace that. At least I can start it and run it on a fully charged battery to test for oil leaks, overheating and other things after the gasket replacement.
Don called and said he had a tilt column to go in it and at the same time we'll install delay wipers since the switch is already in the column. Don't know if you've ever gotten into one without tilt, but it's a bit difficult.
Once we've got it on the road, we'll start using the car for tech sessions. Dew wipe replacement, headliner replacement, headlight motor rebuild and wiper blades. As far as I've been able to determine, aside from paint, these are the only things the car needs. Before we paint it, Don and I discussed installing a decklid that has a remote trunk release and a luggage rack. We decided against installing the chenille dingleberries around the windshield.
I have a late model Pontiac radio to go into it. Eventually I'll get the harness to install it.
I will be visiting Robbie in the next week or so to get the 88 dash to replace the badly cracked one that's in it, along with the dual GT exhaust.
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Charlie, Me & Dewey are going to Rob's this coming friday Dec 4th, If you want i can bring the dash back, Iam also bringing parts back for Pat.. Jerry
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Thanks, I appreciate that. It would save me a lot of time.
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I'll get the parts together...and whatever else I need out of the shop... ;D
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Charlie,
let me know when you want to replace the radio.
I can take care of it.
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I already have the radio. I just need to order the adapter harness kit from Crutchfield.
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Went up to see Robbie today and picked up an alternator for the Duke. Might get it installed sometime between Christmas and New Year if weather is good and appointments few. Anyone with nothing to do is welcome to come help change a valve cover gasket and swap alternators. You just might be the first to get to drive it.
Any recommendations on a good brand valve cover gasket that won't leak?
Gerald and Dewey brought down a dual exhaust and a new dash for it a couple of weeks ago. Pat, I'll need your expertise in installing it onto the Duke. Once it's running, it will go to Don's for the dash and a tilt column and delay wipers. Then we should be able to put it on the road to be driven to anyone's place for other work.
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Any recommendations on a good brand valve cover gasket that won't leak?
The blue Felpro rubber and steel kind don't leak. I think I have a used one, but I don't know if they can be re-used. They are installed dry, so maybe they can be.
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If it was just on and off, I'll try it, but if it was on for any time, I probably shouldn't chance it and just get a new one. Will be taking the alternator down to the parts store maybe Thursday to get it tested before installing it.
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Did the battery Charge ??????
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The charger indicated it had charged with the ground cable detached and a side post adaptor screwed in. I needed to charge the battery on my 87 so I removed the charger and didn't check the voltage. Haven't had the time to check the battery with a meter. Actually, I haven't thought to do it.
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The Coupe is now running. The battery is holding a charge and we have an alternator that is charging. I have replaced the thermostat and filled it with antifreeze. The fuel gauge is now operating correctly. It had a bad connection. There is no smoke from the exhaust and no valve or rod noise from the engine. There was some initial smoke from oil that had leaked onto the manifold, but it stopped. Just for safety, I'll replace the valve cover gasket.
I drove it around through the subdivision several times and the clutch and transmission are very smooth. Before it can go on the road, the headlight motors need repaired and the brake calipers need rebuilt. The headlight motors keep running and it only has partial brakes.
I'll take care of the headlights. Anyone want to tackle the brakes?
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How bad are the brakes?
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You can drive the car without any problems. The brakes aren't locked down. I think the pistons on some of the wheels are stuck. It's just hard to get it stopped. The brake light stays on all the time and the pedal is hard. Probably just needs the calipers rebuilt. I think the pads are OK.
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So was the alternator I sent you good or did you have to get another one?
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I've had the charger on for a couple of days. Went out today and hooked up the cables and started it. The battery light stayed on. I let the car run until the cooling fan came on and I shut it off. Hooked up the charger again, topped off the coolant and started it up. The light was out. I attributed that to the battery charger being connected, but when I removed it, the light stayed out. I drove it around the subdivision and it never came on. I did take the one you sent down to have it tested at O'Reilly's and it showed to be good, also. I'll return it to you.
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Keep it and use it or sell it and put the money in the clubs account.
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Ever so often, RockAuto has a sale of closeout items. Well, it just so happened that they had listed one fully loaded front left caliper for an 88 Fiero for $26.79 with no core charge. I just snapped it up. Hopefully no one else got their order in ahead of mine, and I'll have it in a few days. That'll take care of one of the Little Duke Coupe's calipers. I guess we'll have to rebuild the others.
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That's a generous offer, Pat. but I think these can probably be rebuilt. I'll buy the goodies if someone wants to tackle the rebuild job. I'll help, too. I can do the front, but don't want to tackle the back set.
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Kevin and I will be bleeding the brake system and lubing up the sliders before attempting to rebuild the brake calipers. We want to make sure that we don't incur expenses and labor that isn't necessary.
Kevin will also be taking a look at the radio. It has a cheap aftermarket radio and the rear speakers don't work. We'll be installing a late model Grand Prix radio.
I will also be pulling out my set of Firestone Firehawk Indy 500 white letter tires to install on the Lil Duke Coupe. The tires that are on the car have very little mileage, but have 4 years of sitting. They are dry rotted badly and 2 of them go flat in about 2 days. Anyone have a tire changer?
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Hey Charlie, I have access to a tire machine. I can change them but not balance them.
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Today The Duke got newly rebuilt headlight motors on both sides. Man, I can't get the stink of the old motors out of my nostrils. Smelled like someone puked in them. I devised a way to hold the brushes in place while reinserting the drive motor. Next time I won't waste a couple of hours trying to hold them in place.
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Your not suppose to snort "that" powder.... ;D
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I don't think it was the powder. I think it was the lubricant they used on the gears. The powder was great! :) ::)
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While working on the car, I've noticed that the center of the driver's seat has started to tear, so the seats will need to be replaced. I'm considering installing a set of GT seats and then protecting them with slip covers. As soon as we get a good weekend, Kevin and I are going to tackle the brakes and get them freed up. It should be able to go on the road shortly, so that anyone who wants to contribute to the car can have it at their place.
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A good day is hard to come by. But we will get those brakes done.
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Have you got any recent pictures of the car?
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A good day is hard to come by. But we will get those brakes done.
I managed to change the oil on my little duke today. The day was at least good enough for that.
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Have you got any recent pictures of the car?
Nothing's changed much, visibly, except that I washed it and got all the black crud off it. I cleaned out all the built-up leaves, and the radio is hanging out by its wires. They cut the harness and spliced in the new radio, so I want to leave it intact for Kevin to work with.
I degreased the engine and it's looking decent. I plan to repaint some of the hardware in the engine bay to spruce it up a bit. When I start, I'll likely take some before and after pictures. I still don't have the title to the car, so I'm a little reluctant to do a lot to it, though I trust Dan will provide the title without hesitation. He spends a lot of time out of state and it's difficult for us to syncronize our schedules.
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Wednesday I took a drive up to visit Robbie. Returned the dash, throttle body and alternator he provided for the duke. They weren't needed after all. Also delivered an 87 V6 to him that he's going to recondition. Only has 145K miles. Contact Robbie if you need a motor.
Today I removed the valve cover on the Little Duke Coupe and replaced it with a FelPro rubber gasket kit that comes with the bolts and wings like the 3.4 and small block Chevys use. Also came with a new EGR valve gasket since you have to remove the EGR to get the valve cover off. While I had everything off, I cleaned and repainted the breather and valve cover a nice glossy black. It must have had a replacement valve cover because it was still coated with Cosmolene everywhere except the top surface. I'll post some pictures later when I'm feeling a little better.
While I was putting it back together, I checked the EGR valve. It has a hole in the diaphragm. Does anyone have a good used EGR valve for an 88 Duke?
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I have one. It's aftermarket, and the vacuum port isn't facing the right way, so you may have to modify the vacuum line. The aftermarket ones are supposed to be able to be rotated to aim the vacuum port, but this one is used and seems to be frozen in place.
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I have a set of damaged vacuum lines off a V6 so I can probably find a section that will conform. Thanks.
I've been trying to post pictures, but PIP gives me an internet error message. This is something new because it's been working for me up until now. I get error code 35756 run time error.
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If you email the pics to me, I'll put them up.
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This is the interior
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This is how it looked after 4 years of sitting in the back yard.
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Headliner is sagging and was supported in many places by straight pins. There's a good supply in the ash tray.
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Scott Brown and I about to load it onto the trailer to bring it to it's new home
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The engine is pretty clean inside. No sludge buildup except around the center headbolt directly behind the throttle body.
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Removed the valve cover to replace a leaky gasket. This reminds me of the Kellogg's Raisin Bran song---
You get two tubes of silicone on every Little Duke Coupe head.
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The breather with valve cover and new gasket reinstalled.
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The build up on that headbolt could be from the heat from the EGR valve.
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I have a clean valve cover with no gunk on it if you need one.
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Ive already cleaned that one and reinstalled it. I think it was brand new. Now, I just have to pick up that EGR valve.
Edit: Just added the pic to the above post.
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I got the EGR reinstalled, and started it up. It was smoking badly off the exhaust manifold, right in the center, so I tightened the valve cover a little more and it stopped.
I removed the old tires, which were so dry rotted that 2 of them would go flat in a day or two. I reinstalled a set of Firestone Firehawk Indy 500 tires all the way round. After getting the new tread on, I ran it up and down the street 4 or 5 times. The brake mastercylinder rear compartment is empty and you can tell that the brakes don't work properly. After getting back, I checked the rotors and only the front are shiny. The rear aren't working at all, and likely need rebuilding. The front needs pads, but the rear are good.
Here are a few pictures after it got a wash, today. Before and After pictures. The after pictures are what I hope it to look like when we get it ready to lead parades and to loan out to members.
Front, Before
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Front, After
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Rear, Before
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Rear, After
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I've got a set of floor mats that match that interior if you guys want them. I'm also going to be hitting up pull-a-part in the next few weeks if you want me to keep my eye out for any Fiero related parts.
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Floor mats would be good. As I've said, this was an absolutely no options car. He didn't even get floor mats with it. Thanks.
We could use a tire iron. Even though the spare and jack have never been used, there is no tire iron.
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Pretty sure I have mine somewhere around the garage, I'll take a look in the next day or two.
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Does anyone have an injector for an 88 Duke? Have been having problems with this one after car sits. Tapping it will usually get it going. The other day it sputtered and quit. There's no spray coming from the injector.
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I have one. I replaced mine a while back when I really didn't need to -- the problem was something else.
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What was the problem? I'm pretty sure my problem is the injector, but I may need to look elsewhere.
Still haven't heard anything from him regarding the title.
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The problem was an over-heating throttle body. See this thread (http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/108568.html).
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After reading that, I think it's the injector. As I said, I'd been having to tap it to get it to start to spray. The car was running, but wasn't yet warmed up when it started to sputter and it quit. For some strange reason, the headlight motors both quit working, too.
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Check all fuses and fusible links.
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Dan Lucas emailed me last week and told me he had the title for the coupe. Melanie and I drove up last Friday and got it signed over. It's officially ours, now, so we can start to work on it next week.
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Charlie, does your duke coupe have the rubber seal on the hinge side of the deck lid? I'm trying to find out if what I've heard is true -- that the seals were only removed from V6 cars in a recall. Mine duke has the seal.
(My V6 does too, because the recall wasn't done.)
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Yes, it still has the seal. There's no indication that it's ever been removed or replaced. Since the car was a one owner and Mr. Lucas and his wife only used this car for personal use and didn't do their own servicing, I'd say that it's original and not added on.
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FWIW...
My 88 coupe was missing the seal when I got the car.
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The Duke is up and going again. If anyone wants it to do anything to it, I'll get it to you. It isn't registered, so I'll have to tow it.
I pulled the radio out and the harness has been butchered. I have an upgrade radio for it, but the harness has to be repaired first. The rear speakers didn't work with this radio, but that could be a result of the wires that are cut.
It needs an 88 dash, vinyl radio surround, manual shift surround, drop down console door and the main trim piece around the instrument panel. All of these are broken badly.
It needs a headliner. This one is held up by straight and safety pins.
Don is contributing and installing a tilt column and delay wipers.
I have a good pair of 87GT seats to install.
Three of the tires have nails and slowly leak down. I'll see about getting those patched.
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These are the RPO Codes that I can make out and their description.
AAA A coating on the glass. Standard equipment on the vehicle
AR9 Seat, front bucket, driver, passenger, manual reclining
C41 Heater, base (non AC) (88)
D35 Mirror, outside, rearview (painted)
D7W Gear, speedometer driven
UL5 Radio delete (all)
MM5 Transmission, manual, 5-speed, provisions (85-88)
82B Ripple cloth, Dark Gray
N36 Steering wheel, rally 4-spoke (86-87)------This RPO doesn't match the year but RPO is correct.
82I Interior Trim, Medium Dark Gray
LR8 Engine, 2.5L L4
WA9077 Ruby Red (87-88)
J77U--Unknown at this time but believed to mean lower paint trim is same as top trim.
.A5--Incomplete, unknown at this time but believed to be QAB P195/70R14 blackwall, steel-belted (1988)
905--Unknown at this time
K..--Incomplete, unknown at this time
There are also others which cannot be determined.
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The Lil' Duke Coupe is registered and insured. Tires have been repaired, Kevin repaired the radio wiring harness and we have a late model Pontiac radio installed. New alternator installed. New wiper blades installed. Headlights adjusted. I rebuilt the motors earlier. New Battery.
Needs:
Rear brake pads installed. I have them.
Water pump, pump pulley and belt replaced. I have them.
Spark plug wires replaced.
Instrument panel surround replaced. I have that.
Rear speakers installed. I have them.
Headliner replaced.
Dash replaced.
Console soft vinyl pieces replaced. I have the AC/Radio surround.
Nose emblem replaced. I have one.
Pontiac on rear bumper replaced. I have that.
Dew wipes replaced.
If anyone wants the car to tinker on, it's driveable.
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Since I've gotten pretty good at water pumps on the Iron Duke, I'll bring my tools (awesome 13 mm that fits behind the pump pully) and pully puller over to your place sometime next week and take care of that, cool?
\D
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I'm going to get a new pulley. The original is badly rusted and some of the ribs are rusted away. Does the 88 pump come with a pulley? Advance doesn't know.
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when I got my pump for the 86, it had the wrong pulley on it, so I had to swap them. Don't know what the 88 pump comes with, but I thought all the 85-88 pumps are interchangeable??
Does the Coupe have AC running on the same belt?
I remeber you saying something about an aftermarket AC? Or was it the only feature it actually had being a base coupe?
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The 87 and 88 uses a single serpentine belt. Different lengths depending if it has air or not. You can actually run a non-ac belt on it if your compressor locks up. Both engines have a belt tensioner, so there's no adjusting the alternator. The AC was installed later when they discovered how hot a Fiero can get in the Alabama sun. Just talked with Pat and he said his pump didn't come with a pulley. He had to reuse his old one. He suggested I get one from the Fiero Factory.
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OK, either way, I can do the water pump swap, I'm confident enough after 3 swaps on my wife's 4 cylinder ;D
\D
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The Lil' Duke Coupe is registered and insured. Tires have been repaired, Kevin repaired the radio wiring harness and we have a late model Pontiac radio installed. New alternator installed. New wiper blades installed. Headlights adjusted. I rebuilt the motors earlier. New Battery.
Needs:
Rear brake pads installed. I have them.
Water pump, pump pulley and belt replaced. I have them.
Spark plug wires replaced.
Instrument panel surround replaced. I have that.
Rear speakers installed. I have them.
Headliner replaced.
Dash replaced.
Console soft vinyl pieces replaced. I have the AC/Radio surround.
Nose emblem replaced. I have one.
Pontiac on rear bumper replaced. I have that.
Dew wipes replaced.
If anyone wants the car to tinker on, it's driveable.
As always, club members are welcome to bring the car here & use my tools if they want to work on it. I can lend a hand at times, too.
I also have the rear console piece out of my Formula; it's in good shape but the door is badly warped. The club can have it if they want. (I plan to build a custom console in the Formula)
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"
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I'm as good at car repairs as I am at playing the concert violin. Which is not a all, so can I kick in to buy some parts that can't be found or something?
Fiero GTB
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The glove box door is the only thing on the rear console that is bad. The rest of the rear is serviceable.
Turns out the auto parts stores didn't have water pumps, pulleys or belts, so I've just ordered a new water pump from NAPA and I left a message at The Fiero Factory with my request for a pulley. NAPA is the only parts store that offers a pulley on the water pump, but unfortunately it's for the 84-86 with the twin belts.
I also just ordered spark plug wires.
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Are there any Fieros in the Pull-a-parts with water pump pulleys?
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There was an 86, but that's the wrong pulley. I ordered one from the Fiero Factory for $40 :'( plus shipping. It will be here sometime next week.
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What ya doing Sunday?
I 've done brakes quite a few times on mine....
I can come over and do the rear brakes.
let me know at the meeting.
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After Church, we're going to my Sister's house for my Brother-In-Law's birthday.
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The Lil' Duke Coupe left home today. It took off and ran as fast as it's little 4-banger heart could legally run. 65 and 70 MPH all the way to Douglasville and never looked back. After the stalling problems coming back from the meeting, I expected to have to haul it back.
Ray followed me and he said he'd noticed an occasional spray coming out of the engine. When we got to Don's we found that the water pump just couldn't wait for us to replace it. It failed just about the time we got there. I guess it realized we were about to do some surgery on it. The ignition locked up before we could change out the column and the water pump failed because we planned to install a new one.
Don has donated a tilt column and delay wiper motor and will be installing that. Since I had the new pump, belt and pulley sitting in the front floor, I asked him to install that, too.
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The tilt column and delay wipers have been installed. The new water pump and pulley have been installed. Don has put around 150 miles on it, not counting the 75 miles I put on it getting it to Don. He says it runs like a charm and drives beautifully. He's done a few other little items that I can't remember. It's actually roadworthy if any member needs a temporary ride or if you want to contribute any to the restoration.
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it does run don and i took it to lunch wednesday and had no problems.
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Some updating on the Lil' Duke Coupe.
The first time I drove it any distance was to the club meeting and it ran well. On the way back it began to stall. It stalled frequently. Each time, after turning off the ignition and waiting a moment it would restart and I could drive for a short distance again. I repeated that process several times on the way home. In the coming weeks I couldn't find the cause and only drove it 5-6 miles at a time.
One night I found that the alternator wasn't charging and drove the last half mile home in the dark with no lights. I replaced the alternator with a new one, but that one made the headlights look like 2 motorcycles coming at you with the headlights pulsing. Diagnostics showed that the alternator was putting out 15.25 volts at idle. Since I couldn't rebuild that alternator it was off to Advance for a new one. That solved that problem.
It went off to Aerodonamics for some work. Don installed the tilt column and delay wipers. Wipers take a sweep when the headlights are flashed or the turn signals are turned on. TopNotch's Phantom Wiper Fixer will cure that. As you can see in the above posts, there were no problems while Don had the car. That is until I brought it home. Got just 1 mile from home and it stalled. Three times in that mile. Each time after turning off the ignition it would restart. It would restart only after the ignition had been turned to the OFF position.
Afterward, I only drove it close by home and had no problems. Then I drove it to the July meeting. Ran great right down I-85. Left the meeting and hit I-85 again and it ran great. Until I got to the airport in Lawrenceville and it shut down while running about 65. Oh, BTW, the SES light had been going on and off all the way down and back. First time that had happened. Anyway, because of traffic I pulled to the shoulder, turned off the ignition and immediately restarted. Just 9 more miles home.
In that 9 miles it shut down 4 more times. In all but one, I just put it in neutral, turned off the ignition and coasted, turned the ignition back on and restarted it. The first time while coasting I tried restarting without turning off the ignition and also bump starting with the clutch. Still no-go.
Got it home and checked the code and it was an Oh-2 sensor Code 13. Replaced it and in local driving of about 20 miles round trip, it's given no problems.
These problems don't happen unless it gets a little distance away and starts back home. I think it doesn't want to come home. Anyone else want to keep it for a while?
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I have room for a flock / herd of Fieros ;D
jk....... I think you actually have a bigger driveway than I do
\D
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I have an idea. Do you think it could be the ECM? If so, maybe you could borrow mine, take it on a long drive, and see how it does. My ECM is known good (after 3 not-so-good ones).
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I'm hoping the Oh2 sensor was the answer. If it isn't, yeah, maybe we can swap out the ECM. How difficult is it to change? Any special procedures?
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Nothing special. Just disconnect the battery first.
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I was thinking ICM, not ECM. Hey, it's late and I didn't get my mid-day nap. It seems that whatever it is, it gets reset when it's powered off.
Tucked back underneath the C500 is a weatherpak connector. Is that for the ECM, like the V6's have? Can I clear the stored codes by disconnecting that?
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I have an extra ICM for an 88 duke.
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If I get the headliner material, anyone want to do a tech session on replacing it? I also have new rear brake pads to be installed. Could use some help on that in case anyone needs to use the car. Remember, this is the club loaner vehicle, so if anyone needs it, let me know.
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bring it to the show i'll do it for you there should only take about 30min
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Thank you, but I'm driving the 87GT. Maybe we could do a tech session at the November meeting?
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My 87 Duke had the same problem with stalling and shutting off. I finally replaced the EMC and so far have not had any further problems. LOL mine was just the same just didn't want to come home I guess. I keep you updated if the problems starts again.
joe
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Got the Lil Duke Coupe out earlier in the week and headed out to Hancock Fabric in Gainesville to get some headliner material for it. About a 20 mile drive. At about 15 miles I put on the brakes only to get a horrible grinding noise from the right rear. Since I knew the pads were worn, I knew a pad had come off the backing plate. So, I nursed the car along, gearing down to reduce brake use. Made it to Hancock and got the material.
About 2 miles into the return trip I suddenly got another horrible noise from the right rear. Sounded like the wheel is coming off the car. Pulled into a vacant house at the end of the #17 exit ramp of I-985 and found a flat tire. There was a crew there preparing to demolish the house. As Ray and I jacked up the car, one of the guys walked up with a lug wrench and started taking off the wheel. He changed it for us, wished us a good day and got in his truck and left.
Next thing to do is to get the rear pads replaced. I've had new pads for the car, but have never installed them. Would anyone like to teach me how to change out the rear pads on an 88? It would need to be done at my house. Then it can go to PurpleHaze so she can install the headliner.
Next step is to pick up a good set of used tires to replace the dry rotted tires on it that are probably 7-8 years old. Then it will be available for any member who needs emergency transportation.
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The easiest way is to remove the "bridge", the outer half of the caliper. That way, you don't have to worry about removing the little slider pins -- they'll stay with one half or the other. You'll have to screw the piston in for the new pads.
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You'll have to screw the piston in for the new pads.
Charlie,
If you need the tool for that, I've got it.
\D
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Yes, I will need it. Kevin was going to come over this afternoon, but I think we'll put it off to another day, due to the weather. I'll get with you to arrange pickup. Thanks.
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Would you happen to have an 84-86 headlight actuater relay? Just for testing purposes?
\D
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I have several of the relays that mount on the headlight assembly, one that's the Isolator Relay that mounts on the left fender wall, and several sets of actuator point/brush sets that go inside the motor.
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I guess it's the isolator relay for on the inside of the left fender. The PO of the Shanine's 84 did a hack-job on all the headlight wiring, it's a fiasco.
Nothing but red and black wire spaghetti up front
\D
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OK. Kevin was going to try to help on Friday, but I think it's supposed to rain. Melanie has therapy tomorrow morning, and we should be back by about 12:30. Tomorrow afternoon is good. Thanks.
Don, I'll get these relays to you, or if you need them really quickly, come on over.
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No rush Charlie, I usually only work on Shanine's car on the weekends ;D
\D
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http://www.weather.com/weather/5-day/Auburn+GA+30011 (http://www.weather.com/weather/5-day/Auburn+GA+30011)

Says it will be mostly sunny on friday
Hope to see ya then.
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Hey, Kevin, Roger came down and we spend the past 5 hours changing the rear brake pads. Ray kept giving us wrong instructions. Actually, we spent 4 hours changing one side and 1 hour on the other. Learning curve. I don't know if we got everything right since I haven't test driven it, yet.
Now, who was it said they had a front set of pads to donate? Maybe we can do those on Friday?
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hey charlie how about one of those smokey yunic water motors for the club coupe?
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I don't know what Tony Ellers did with the Smokey Yunick Fiero. It had been up for sale and I believe some private investor bought it for his collection. But after riding in Lee's little 86SE with the 3800, we could drop one of those in, then we could go down the road singing "She's my Lil Duke Coupe, You Don't Know What I've Got" ala Beach Boys.
She just got a good set of fair weather tires on her today. Used, but decent tread. Hankook Hz24's, I think. Don't know how good they are in the rain, yet.
So, now if any dues paying member needs temporary transportation and drive a manual equipped car, I'd feel safe in letting her run the streets. Or if anyone would like to tinker with her, she's yours, registered and insured.
Things that need to be done to her:
Dash installed-on hand
Rear speakers installed-on hand
Deck lid release wire snaked through deck lid and relay installed.
Front speakers replaced
Left lower door sill trim replaced--on hand
Seats replaced--on hand
Headliner installed-on hand
Manual dot matrix shift surround replaced or repaired
Soft vinyl radio surround replaced or repaired.
Aftermarket AC compressor serviced/repaired.
Dew wipes replaced
Single exhaust replaced with dual exhaust--on hand.
Sanded, primered and painted. This should be a group project.
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I've got a decent radio surround. I can install it when Shanine does the headliner
\D
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When do you want the car? I was also wondering if we could set a target date of having this thing finished to lead us in next year's St. Patrick's Day Parade.
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Aerodonamic previously installed a tilt column with delay wipers and swapped out the 2 speed wiper motor for a variable speed unit. It had a ghost wipe problem when turning the ignition on, flashing the lights, or using the turn signals. I took TopNotch's Phantom Wipe repair out to install it, but remembered I had about 5 circuit boards in my cache of parts. I swapped out the board first and fixed it, so now I have the repair kit for the 86SE that has the same problem. Turns out a board fixed the SE also, so I still have the Phantom Wipe Repair Kit.
Next, the left front speaker had stopped singing, so I pulled it to see what's wrong. Not original, but in horrible condition, so I pulled both and installed a set of 4 x 6's that had a very large magnet that wouldn't fit B pillars. When we do the headliner, we can replace the dash, seats and install the B pillar speakers so that stuff doesn't have to come out again.
Scott Brown will be piloting the Lil Duke Coupe on the Cloudland Canyons/BBQ tour on the 17th if he doesn't have to work. If he can't make it, Kevin will take over controls.
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We might have time on Sunday, but that is only tentatively right now. I'll let you know at the meeting.
\D
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I picked up the Lil Duke Coupe yesterday. Still sounded like it was only running on 2 cylinders, but I managed to get it up on the tow dolly. Towed it home with front end up at 70 mph most of the way. This is a manual transmission car, so the rear wheels can stay on the ground.
I pulled the trouble code it set as we came down I-75 from Ringgold to Dalton and it indicated MAP sensor, it's harness or vacuum line. Popped the deck and saw the vacuum line hanging there, so I put it back in place and it started and ran just fine. I drove it around for about an hour this afternoon without problem.
I don't believe that was the cause of the initial problem, though. I think that came loose when we pulled the breather off to look for the original problem.
Picked up a new pair of 4 x 10 front speakers during the week and will get them installed when we replace the dash with the one supplied by Whodeanie.
While I was up in Dalton, I went by to see 3 Fieros that ButchSummerville has for sale. An 84 base coupe, and an 85SE which are basically parts cars, with no body damage and a nice 86 SE that has a good clear coat original paint job, interior is nice. The front fascia is loose at the top from a deer strike, but I saw no cracks or holes in it. All are 4 cylinders. The 84 and 86 are manual transmission cars and the 85 is automatic. He's asking $1200 for the package. He should have an ad posted soon.
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oh wow! that's just crazy it was something as simple as that...Guess i can understand with what happened to me this past Friday lol
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If an 87-88 duke happens to backfire, it can blow off one of the vacuum lines. It happened to me once. I don't know if that happened in your case, but I just wanted to make you aware.
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She did backfire once while Scott was trying to crank her
\D
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Today I completed the headliner on the LDC, and put in pillar speakers. I took out the seats to make working on the headliner easier, and found over $5.00 in change under the seats. I put it in my "Change for Children" can (from my church).
I also replaced the driver seat bottom with one I had in my shed, that's in better condition.
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I have a Grand Prix radio donated by Whodeanie that will be powering those speakers and also a pair of 87GT seats to go into the car. When I put them in, I'll let you have the seats that are in it. I'd put them in The Market for anyone that would make a donation to the club treasury, but nobody seemed to want them. They missed a good deal for as little as $10.
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Today I replaced the crank position sensor on the LDC. The old one was cracked. It runs fine, but I haven't had a chance to test drive it yet.
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Would that have caused it to stall out or start and die the way it has done? How much was the CPS? That's a normal maintenance item and should be my expense.
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It's possible. The car is blocked in right now, but tomorrow I'll move the other car and test drive it.
The part cost about $22. You don't have to pay me back, though.
Edit: I found the cracked CPC because I decided to check out the ignition "brick". The rest of it looks OK.
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I took the coupe on a test drive -- it did just fine.
I also had a spare set of keys made at the local hardware store.
And I checked the tach based on what I get in my car. At 60 MPH on the speedometer in my car in 5th gear, the tach reads 2100. In the LDC, it reads 2700. It reads about 1100-1200 at idle, which sounds more like 900. So it gets more inaccurate as speed increases.
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With those small wheels, I think the speedo is off by about 7 mph at an indicated 70 mph. That's according to comparison with a GPS. I had a set of Formula wheels lined up but were sold before I could get to them.
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Once again it's Oliver Scholz to the rescue!
Go to
http://www.fieros.de/en/main.html
Click 'Electronics' then, 'Speedo/Tach tester
Very simple to build with Radio Shack parts.
Also, check out
http://www.howtoalmanac.com/kevin/projects/automotive/tachfix.htm
I know it's not our tach but great info that is very informative.
I''ve also heard through the grapevine that a tach filter on its last leg will cause erronious readings.
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The tach doesn't bounce or anything. It's actually very steady. If it uses the same filter as the V6's, I have a hand full of them.
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With those small wheels, I think the speedo is off by about 7 mph at an indicated 70 mph. That's according to comparison with a GPS. I had a set of Formula wheels lined up but were sold before I could get to them.
For the tach-speedometer comparison, the actual speed of the car (from the tire size) doesn't matter. It just compares one gauge to another at a certain engine speed. One of the gauges in the coupe is off, and I suspect it's the tach.
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I''ve also heard through the grapevine that a tach filter on its last leg will cause erronious readings.
The 88 4-cylinder doesn't have a tach filter.
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With those small wheels, I think the speedo is off by about 7 mph at an indicated 70 mph. That's according to comparison with a GPS. I had a set of Formula wheels lined up but were sold before I could get to them.
For the tach-speedometer comparison, the actual speed of the car (from the tire size) doesn't matter. It just compares one gauge to another at a certain engine speed. One of the gauges in the coupe is off, and I suspect it's the tach.
What I was referring to was that with smaller tires, the speedo will register higher than actual because the tires make more revolutions per mile and the tach speed will be higher at any given speed when the car is in motion. At idle, of course the tires don't come into play. Tach and speedo don't have effect on one another, except that the ECM may use the data to compare in its look-up table. I agree that it looks like the tach is incorrect and reading high.
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I would be willing to donate the wheels from the T-Top, once I determine whether I'm going to use the tires from it on my VW project. My plan was to put the tires on new 15x7 wheels that I have, but I'm not sure they're the size I need for it. Once I've determined the size tires I need, I might be able to donate the tires too or sell them at a very reasonable rate (& not have to take them off of the Formula wheels).
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"
Custom Fiberglass Parts (http://angelonearth.net/customfiberglass/)
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Thanks, Paul. We'll take you up on that offer.
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Fierofool and I are going to work on the Little Duke Coupe at my house on Saturday (the 3rd). If you would like to join in, PM me, and I will send you my address (in Lawrenceville).
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Today Pat and I spent the day renovating the Coupe. It got a new dash, a new set of seats from my 87 GT, a complete console from front to rear and a new Delco radio from a Grand Prix. We also removed the instrument pod and replaced the trip odometer, but alas it was for naught. The trip odometer still doesn't work.
We also found something I have never seen before. It has a console skeleton that has no screw holes stripped nor any cracks or breaks.
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Today I fixed the heater control on the LDC. It was blowing only through the defroster vents, no matter where you positioned the control. Someone on Pennocks had said that an 88 coupe without AC was supposed to be that way, but I didn't believe it for a minute. And guess what I found when I took it apart? A broken cable clamp...

I tried gluing it, but it didn't hold. So I made a clamp out of aluminum...

Now the air blows where you direct it, so I don't have to have cold feet if I drive the car.
Notice that the other clamp is cracked, and may break some day. If it does, I'll do the same thing.
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Good find. You might want to post that up on PFF, too. The consensus seemed to be that all 88's without AC worked that way.
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The club car has decent wheels now. We don't have all the original center caps for these wheels, so I put on some chrome lug nut caps, and found the center caps on Ebay -- and they fit perfectly.

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Pictures, Pictures, Pictures!
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Pictures, Pictures, Pictures!
Oops.... fixed.
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Those aren't the center caps that go on the wheels. What happened to the original Pacer caps? I guess those will do until another original can be found.
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Does this mean the club doesn't want my Formula wheels for the little Duke coupe?
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"
Custom Fiberglass Parts (http://angelonearth.net/customfiberglass/)
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Paul, How much do you want for your Formula wheels?
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Those aren't the center caps that go on the wheels. What happened to the original Pacer caps? I guess those will do until another original can be found.
We still only have 3 pacer center caps. I even tried here (http://wheelcapking.com/request-a-cap/), with no luck.
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Paul, I had sent you an email about the wheels about a month and a half ago, asking you to call me. I was interested in them. Later Ray got a new set of wheels for his car and gave us the Pacers for the coupe.
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Paul, How much do you want for your Formula wheels?
I was going to donate them to the club for the coupe. But I'm still using them for fitment on my VW, trying to determine what size tires I need. I can pull them, though.
If the club doesn't want them I'll take $100 for just the wheels. The tires are good, but I don't know how old they are.
Charlie, I just checked & yahoo is sending "topic reply" emails to my spam folder, EVEN THOUGH I HAVE THAT OPTION TURNED OFF! Yours probably got sent there too, especially if you used the forum email to send it. :(
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"
Custom Fiberglass Parts (http://angelonearth.net/customfiberglass/)
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I don't remember how I sent it. I don't see it in my sent PM's or in my personal email sent file. I must have deleted it already, but I thought the 88 style lace wheels would look good on the coupe. Pseudo-Formula. Thank you for the offer, though.
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Free for the asking one burgendy spoiler to put on the club car!!Charley let me know if you want it . I can install it at the next meeting! Aerodon...
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Thanks for the offer, but I, personally would like to keep the car as stock as possible. I have another decklid with a luggage rack on it and I thought about having it painted at the same time as we get the car painted. The we can swap back and forth. I kind of like the looks of the naked rear end.
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OK....Front joints on the Little Duke Coupe. I have it up on jack stands and am preparing to do the ball joints....but I think we need to go further. In fact, I am not sure it needs ball joints at all, but I might as well do them while I have things apart.
First, the video:
As you can see, it seems that the problem is tie rods rather than ball joints.
Driver's side sway bar end link. I think we know where the rattle in the front end was coming from.

Passenger side end link. Same thing.

I have a spare set of poly end links from an 86...I can transfer the ends to the 88 bolt and spacer and we will be good here.
Tie rods...

The photo of the other side was too dark to see...but it is the same story over there. I think we should replace these as well. Although I haven't really determined that the inners are bad also, once we are replacing every other joint, do we really want to skip them?
Inner: $25 each - http://rodneydickman.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=26_43&products_id=156
Outer: $21 each - http://rodneydickman.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=26_43&products_id=155
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Next question. I am going deep enough into it that it would only take a few more minutes to replace the bushings with new rubber or poly.
Side note. I measured the alignment before pulling things apart. Camber was 0.9 degrees driver's side and 0.7 degrees on the passenger side. I didn't measure the exact toe, but it was significantly more than the 0.3 degree desired on both sides.
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I got rubber sway bar end-link bushings for my 88 at Napa. My original ones had disintegrated.
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Inner tie rods are solid. Steering rack bushing is far from it. $28.50 - http://rodneydickman.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=26_43&products_id=101
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I'm surprised at the amount of rust on it. That's a southern car. It's never been anywhere but Alabama and Georgia until Scott drove it up Lookout Mountain, Tn. Then your trip to North Carolina.
Where are the jack stands located? Are they under the control arms or under the chassis? I found on my 86 that ball joints won't show movement unless the suspension is loaded. With it supported on the chassis, there wasn't any movement, but man, were they totally destroyed.
When we talked earlier tonight, you said you were going to do a rough alignment. Are you aware that you have to 'jounce' an 88 at least 3 times after unloading the suspension to get it to settle back down? It's in the Tech Q & A under alignment.
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Yes, I am aware of the jouncing. Jack stands are on the chassis, not the suspension. I hadn't thought about that when checking..but now that it is mentioned, it makes perfect sense that the spring would hold the joints tight enough that I wouldn't feel any play.
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Greg I have two almost new outer tie rods for an 88 can send them back with Sharon. If you get this just let me know. I also have an new stg. rack also.
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While Greg has had the car, he's done lots and lots of work on it. All ball joints and tie rod ends have been replaced and the steering rack has been replaced. Without putting it on an alignment rack, he did an admirable job of getting it back to the point that it stays straight in the roadway when you release the steering wheel. Judging by the rear tires having thread showing on the outer edges, I'd say that either it needs an alignment or Greg and Darrel just ran the shoes off it when we did the last scouting run.
I just picked up a pair of Potenza 215/55-16 directionals and had them installed on the front and the front 225/55/16's moved to the rear.
I'm now looking at the temperature gauge display, which reads very low. The gauge reads about 155 but my IR temp gauge shows 220 when shot at the base of the sending unit. At the same time the coolant temperature sensor base is showing about 155. I'll delve into this a little further to find where the errors are.
I just noticed that the dash I installed now has a huge crack at the left speaker and the instrument cluster cover is also split. Anyone have either, I'd be interested. Gray in color.
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Took the car in to get an alignment. They set the rear to specs and the front, except camber. Greg did a great job without an alignment machine. Camber was something like 9 degrees. Way out, but equal on both sides. They said that it would take about 3 hours to bring the camber into specification at $70 per hour. No thanks. It will go to Roger's alignment guys up in Gainesville where they do what they need, at the standard alignment price.
The car drives great as it is, but too much mileage will take a toll on the tires.
I replaced the injector last Friday and drove it about 30 miles over to meet ScottB. Then back. Today, I drove it to Church then to Cleveland, Ga. A round trip distance of about 150 miles without any stalling issues. Maybe the injector will be the answer.
Pat, when can it come to visit you for a while? I have my 86 parked in the grass.
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Pat, when can it come to visit you for a while? I have my 86 parked in the grass.
Bring it on over. It will have company. Our grandkid's mother just bought an 85 GT that has been re-bodied to look like an 86 GT, and it has a 3.4 in it. It's for one of the grandkids in the future. The wiring is a complete mess, so it will need some work.
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The coupe is back at Pat's. Mechanically solid and running good. If you need temp transportation, call or email TopNotch.
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Yesterday at the car show someone asked about the stalling issue of the Duke Coupe. I came to believe that it was the throttle body injector breaking down and I replaced it. It's been running well during the times TopNotch drove it.
Yesterday as Roger and I were returning from the Boy Scout car show, I made it from Villa Rica to the Ashford-Dunwoody area of I-285 an while we were running along in the center lane at about 70 mph, it shut down. I threw it out of gear and began coasting, trying to move toward the shoulder.
I made it and while still coasting, turned the ignition to the OFF (not LOCK) position for a moment then tried to restart. It fired up, I shoved it into 3rd and merged back into traffic. On the remainder of the trip home, it shut down another 5 times. Using the same solution, while coasting I restarted the engine and kept moving.
I guess the throttle body injector isn't the problem after all. Anyone have any other possibilities?
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What is the condition of the fuel pump? Has the pressure ever been measured?
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When I first got it, the fuel pump didn't work. I had Ashby install another pump. It was a used pump. I don't know if the pressure has ever been tested, but even after cycling the pump several times, it has some long cranking times. Each time when I was coasting, it would start immediately after turning off the ignition.
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My 88 had a starting and stalling problem during warm weather a few years ago. It turned out to be the hose between the fuel pump and steel line. It wasn't submersible, and it wasn't clamped, and in warmer temperatures, it got softer, causing more leakage. I think the fuel pump warrants examination.
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I think at the time the tank is down it might be best to just install a new pump, too and eliminate any possibilities of problems down there.
I'm now kind of glad that Ray's friend who was supposed to drive the Coupe didn't show up. I thought the stalling problem was cured. It could have been bad news if that had happened to him while on the interstate, not knowing to turn it off and restart.
I need to find the fuel pressure gauge and check for pressure and bleed down.
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Interesting that it would restart right away.
I'm guessing that this system works similar to the V6 in that the ECM turns on the relay, which runs the pump.
I'm also guessing that the oil pressure sender supplies a backup to the ecm/relay circuit.
Based upon those suppositions, I would disconnect the oil sender, and see if it starts and runs at all.
If it does, I would reconnect the oil sender and unplug the fuel pump relay and see if it still cranks and runs.
You might be able to draw conclusions from the results.
The fact that it restarted after turning the key off and then on (and start) also leads me to believe that if it died again, you might be able to leave it in gear and just cycle the key. The forward momentum would serve to start the engine.
If it requires an actual switch to the start position, it might indicate a failure in one of the ignition circuits. (Again, based upon the premise that the V6 ICM has different start and run circuits. I'm guessing that the Duke ICM is similar.)
Of course, it's not a bad idea to check the fuel pump and hose. But stuff is always easier to fix if it will stay "broke".
Working in telecommunications, I always hated those mysterious "miracle fixes". They always seemed to "unfix" themselves at an inopportune time. Usually at 3:00 AM, on a week when I was on call.
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I guess the reason I used the starter to restart was because it died with the clutch engaged and disengaging and engaging the clutch wouldn't start it. Of course, I hadn't turned the ignition off and on, yet.
I guess I could try the relay and pressure sender disconnect tests even without it stalling. Just by disconnecting them should have the same effect? I think Pat has already replaced the ICM and the crankshaft sensor.
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...
I guess I could try the relay and pressure sender disconnect tests even without it stalling. Just by disconnecting them should have the same effect? I think Pat has already replaced the ICM and the crankshaft sensor.
Since there are two separate circuits that can power the fuel pump, I was just wondering if one of them might be failed outright, and then the other one is "breaking down" and causing the stall. If it runs on both circuits, then the problem could be something else.
If you got an inductive timing light with enough cable to reach into the cabin, it might be worthwhile to connect it and leave it connected while driving around. If the engine stalls, pull the trigger and see if you still have spark. Probably would be better if you have a passenger. Could get distracting.
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Keep in mind, as you consider all these possibilities, that the problem only seems to happen in warm weather.
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Hooking up my big pistol grip timing light like that gives me some great ideas. Sit in a business driveway, point and pull the trigger at speeders, ricers, and any variety of others.
Problem is, that you might have to drive around for months before it happens. I suppose that should it happen, just stop with the ignition on and if you have a passenger, have them try starting it without turning off the ignition first. If no spark, then we know it isn't fuel. I do believe it's fuel related though because there's no raw fuel or flooding when it stalls, even if you leave the clutch engaged so whatever it is, it cuts off the fuel supply.
Does the 88 Duke need spark signal for the FP or injector to operate? Our previous solution was to tap on the injector while cranking.
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Was this ever fixed? I'm curious what caused the problem.
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It hasn't been fixed. The car isn't driven enough to really get a handle on it. I recently drove it on the 150 mile Polar Bear Run without any problems. I have another ECU for it, but have never installed it to see if that's the problem.
It actually seems to be electric related because when running 70 down the interstate and it shuts down, restarting it doesn't throw a big cloud of raw exhaust. If using the starter to restart, it fires right up, normally after the ignition has been turned off for 5 seconds or so. When it shuts down, it doesn't sputter or backfire. It just acts as if the ignition switch was turned off.