Georgia Fiero Club Forum
All Things Fiero => Tech Tips, Tech Questions => Topic started by: Spartanzz on December 10, 2021, 06:29:20 am
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So I would like to relocate my battery. Mainly to clean up the engine bay. How have any of y’all relocated it to the front? And how are your cables routed? Does anyone know of a “kit” or box that works for the relocation?
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So I would like to relocate my battery. Mainly to clean up the engine bay. How have any of y’all relocated it to the front? And how are your cables routed? Does anyone know of a “kit” or box that works for the relocation?
Scott's car had it but had to put it back because on cold days it wouldn’t start his car.
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I've heard good things about moving the battery to the front. Better weight distribution and lower center of gravity. Probably even longer battery life since it's away from engine heat. However, I've never heard any safety discussions. Does the Fiero have a firewall in front? What happens if the battery gets smashed in a wreck? Would the acid leak be a concern without a firewall?
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Subscribing to this thread. My car has a minor battery issue, it keeps getting drained, maybe miswiring? And the bottom part where the battery rests is rusted, I wasn't sure if it can be relocated.
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I’m trying to really entertain any options. The battery tray is pretty rusted out. So the options I see are these:
1. Relocate to front?
2. Relocate to the trunk?
3. Smaller battery relocated to cabin somewhere?
4. Get new battery tray and get someone to weld it in?
Just trying to find the overall best option. I do like the ideas of the battery no longer being in the engine bay, allowing more room for activities.
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I relocated mine by fabrication of a battery box from a boat battery box and the frunk bottom. Ran wire under the car and was mostly happy. Wasn't thrilled running wires near the gas tank but didn't have much of an option otherwise. Noticed the difference right away in improving the weight distribution.
MWeldon used an Archie fiberglass tray.
With my new setup I will be building a replacement for my current setup since I have better tools to make it how I want it.
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My battery has been relocated to the front, using a Norm's Fiberglass box. Very similar to Archie's. Although Archie's is probably "prettier".
The + lead - probably an Olds Aurora, or similar cable - is run down the center of the car, on the right side of the gas tank. It is routed over the bracket that supports the tank. It is protected by heater hose anywhere that it comes near anything metal, and also at the places where it is fastened to the car. It is run straight to the starter, and a smaller wire is run from the starter, up to the terminal strip under C500. (Near where the battery normally sits.) That wire is also protected by rubber hose. Fuel line, I think.
I have two grounds connected to the engine. Both are normal size battery cable. One from the rear head to the shock tower. The other from the stud on the bell housing, to the left hinge box.
The ground from the battery - also a normal battery cable - is connected to one of the studs that holds the power brake booster. There is a knife switch in the ground cable, at the battery.
I use a Duracell AGM battery. I used to have an Optima Yellow Top, until it died. The Duracell is about half the size and half the weight of the Optima.
I have had this setup for over five years, and it has caused zero trouble. (Well... other than the Optima dying. But it was labeled "BLEM", so who knows what might have been going on with it.)
If the car is going to be parked for an extended period, I open the knife switch.
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Chaz, The 88 Fiero in the Duluth/Norcross Pull-A-Part has a pretty good battery tray/plate/thingy. Looks solid. I wanted to get it for mine but didn't have the right tools
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You can get a replacement rear battery tray from The Fiero Store. My 86 has one. Aerodon installed it and instead of welding, bolted or pop rivited it in. Been a while since I looked so I don't remember which. The problem is that the acid eats it up back there. West Marine makes a good plastic battery box and when modified and located up front, there is no rain to wash acid off and onto the car.
The front area does have a bulkhead separating the passenger compartment, similar to the engine bay. In an overturn, it might be possible for the rear battery to come into contact with the strut tower or vent grill. A front collision that intruded into the battery area would still keep the battery terminals clear of any metal unless it was hard enough to reach the windshield. By that time, the battery is already in little pieces.
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Hey guys! Thanks for all the info. After some research today, I reached out to Norm's Fiberglass and I’ll be ordering one of their kits. I’d love to remove the battery tray from the engine bay. That would give room for other extra things later on (no idea what, but more space is more space)
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I use a dynabat (very small battery) attached to the front spot where the spare tire used to be. I used the bracket that dynabat makes for their battery. Cables are routed down the middle of the vehicle. I didn't much like the big battery and the trays in the front.
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The dyno batt works just like a regular battery? No alterations?
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I use a dynabat (very small battery) attached to the front spot where the spare tire used to be. I used the bracket that dynabat makes for their battery. Cables are routed down the middle of the vehicle. I didn't much like the big battery and the trays in the front.
Got any pics of that? I'm about to do a front battery in my coupe. Would be nice if I don't have to cut up my trunk.
What kind of CCA and reserve does it have?
Edit - I see they don't quote CCA specs, but say that it will start a 15:1 compression engine. Interesting.
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I saw the same thing but couldn’t find the CCA. Plus I couldn’t tell if it charges normally. A lot of AGM batteries I’ve felt with required something else in the mix.
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I saw the same thing but couldn’t find the CCA. Plus I couldn’t tell if it charges normally. A lot of AGM batteries I’ve felt with required something else in the mix.
"Any 12 volt charger can be used to recharge the Dyna-Batt but a low amperage battery charger/maintainer, much like the charger/maintainer we sell listed below, is recommended to avoid overcharging the battery."
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good read:
https://www.stealth316.com/2-dynabatt.htm
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Yes. A very good read. Thanks!
He didn't mention the Duracell AGM battery. If I had to guess, I'd think it's probably a re-badge of one of the batteries that he already covered.
It's not one of the lightweight batteries, but it is significantly lighter than the Optima yellow top that it replaced. (That thing was like an anvil.)
In any event... the Duracell has lasted two years, with my irregular driving habits, and is still going strong. This article provides some good information, going forward.
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Sorry folks I didn't see the responses to mine. Here is a picture of my setup. Provides plenty of cranking power.
I know that Paul aka FieoGuru on Pennocks uses it on his LS4 motor as well with no problems.
Doing a link because I can not get the picture small enough:
https://www.facebook.com/115069339868275/posts/671147834260420/
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And it charges of the alternator fine?
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Absolutely does. Have had this setup for 2 years now. Drove it from New Mexico to Michigan back to New Mexico in 2019 like this.
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Now I’m excited. What’s the best place to purchase?
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Couple places if you want the Dynabat. I am using the 5575A model. Comes with 1/O terminals that you need to crimp yourself. Should be noted that this battery does not have the same reserve as the bigger ones. Meaning you can't sit in your car listening to music and expect it to last long with the car not running.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dui-5575a?rrec=true
https://performancedistributors.com/product/dyna-batt/