Georgia Fiero Club Forum
All Things Fiero => General Fiero Discussion => Topic started by: TopNotch on July 02, 2022, 02:31:24 pm
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The fuel pump on my white Fiero started making a bad noise. (It's the one that was in the car when I got it, and I have no idea how old it is.)
But my tank is full, so I'm going to have to keep driving it. So I may need to be rescued some day.
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I still have the tow dolly, so give me a call if you need.
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You can disconnect the fuel line and turn the car on to dump the fuel in can?
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I think that will only let it run for 2 seconds on a stock ecm. He's using a 95 Buick OBD 1.5 but still may be able to jumper the ALDL to make it run.
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Disconnect your fuel line (feed or return - whichever is easier to access or adapt) at the the fuel rail or other convenient spot. Extend that line to a gas can or other "approved container", using whatever hose barbs/adapters/hose you may need. Run 12VDC to pin G on the ALDL. Let it fly.
I emptied my coupe tank in exactly that manner, before dropping it to change a pump.
With that said... My current 88 coupe has a fuel pump that sounds like a Cessna. It's been fine for six years, and however many tanks I've run through it.
I get it, that yours just started "being loud". I would probably do something ASAP. (If you happen to get stuck in West GA, give me a call. I don't have a dolly or trailer, but I can come and commiserate with you. I also have AAA, and haven't used any of my "tows", this year. We won't tell them whose car it is. :D )
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Disconnect your fuel line (feed or return - whichever is easier to access or adapt) at the the fuel rail or other convenient spot. Extend that line to a gas can or other "approved container", using whatever hose barbs/adapters/hose you may need. Run 12VDC to pin G on the ALDL. Let it fly.
I emptied my coupe tank in exactly that manner, before dropping it to change a pump.
With that said... My current 88 coupe has a fuel pump that sounds like a Cessna. It's been fine for six years, and however many tanks I've run through it.
I get it, that yours just started "being loud". I would probably do something ASAP. (If you happen to get stuck in West GA, give me a call. I don't have a dolly or trailer, but I can come and commiserate with you. I also have AAA, and haven't used any of my "tows", this year. We won't tell them whose car it is. :D )
No ALDL on my 3800 car, but I can probably figure out how to run the pump somehow. The fuel pump relay isn't in the normal location, but there's two relays where the ECM would normally be, and i think one of those is the fuel pump relay. (The PCM (ECM) is behind the passenger seat.)
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All you really need to do is find the correct relay and bypass it just to power the fuel pump to drain the tank. A lot easier than you think. You could basically go straight from the battery to power the pump, no key involved.
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The tank is empty, and I have 2 5-gallon cans to go in after I replace the pump. Now all I have to do id buy one.
Meanwhile, I washed my yellow car since I may have to take that one to the meeting.
Which is best: US Motor Works, Carter, Delphi, or GM? These are the brands that Rock Auto has.
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...
Which is best: US Motor Works, Carter, Delphi, or GM? These are the brands that Rock Auto has.
Been so long since I bought a fuel pump, I have no idea. Maybe someone else?
Regardless... <bump>
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I can't say what to get but don't get an AirTex. The one I had installed a week or so ago was bad out of the box. I had to pay the garage a second time to remove the tank and put another one in.
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The tank is down, and it's clean inside. I ordered a Delphi from Autozone on one-day delivery. That's the only brand they had for a '95 Park Avenue, which, for all practical purposes, is what I have. And while I'm waiting, I'll clean the fuel level sender. I'm tired of looking for gas when it reads half full.
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I think a Delphi was what the garage put in the 86. Also, I think most people are running the stock Fiero V6 pump for the 3800's.
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I have some good news and some bad news.
The good news: The new pump is in and works fine. I went on a small test drive to make sure.
The bad news: I cleaned the sender, and tested it by connecting the wires to the car (out of the tank). Float down: gauge read empty. Float raised: gauge read an appropriate value. But I must have disturbed something when I put the assembly back in the tank. The gauge doesn't work at all now. But I'm not going to drop the tank again just to fix that. I'll just zero the miles each time I fill up.
It's possible that the tank against the car pinched something. Some day I'll loosen the straps a bit to see what happens. But I"m not in a hurry to do that.
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Maybe you will get luck and it will just fix itself because it is stuck at the moment. :D
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Maybe you will get luck and it will just fix itself because it is stuck at the moment. :D
The current reading on the gauge is the open circuit value (way past full). I don't think I pulled one of the sender connectors off. The connectors are very difficult to remove. But somehow, it's an open curcuit now.
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Check the pins in the sender harness to chassis harness. If they're OK, hit a good speed bump at about 40 mph to see if you can shake it loose. Then replace your ball joints. :D
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There was a paper in the box with my new pump that says it's a "generation IV" pump, which uses 35% to 40% less power and runs cooler. i wonder if that means that it won't burn itself out if you run out of gas and run it dry? I don't plan to try that.
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The one the garage just installed in my 86 said to not let tanks get below 1/4. I dont think it was just for that pump as it was a generic insert.