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Topics - Tha Driver

Pages: 1 2 3 [4] 5
46
General Discussion / I-HOP: go in hungry, come out broke.
« on: March 02, 2010, 08:08:43 pm »
So we went spelunking Saturday, & on the way home we stopped at I-HOP to eat. Ate chicken strips, which came with fries & a slice of garlic bread. Drank two glasses of milk. Cost? $15!!! The milk alone was TWO-FIFTY per glass! And they weren't that big a glass. Could have bought a GALLON for less money.
Next time I'll hold out for Waffle or Huddle House...
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

Genius by birth, slacker by choice.

47
General Fiero Discussion / Fiero repair shop & Museum
« on: February 16, 2010, 10:54:54 pm »

Tim R. Evans, 63, of Sanford, sits on one of more than 35 Pontiac Fieros that are located at his repair shop, dealership and museum called Fieros Forever Michigan, located at 357 Saginaw Road in Sanford.


SANFORD -- With Tim Evans' love for a vintage car, a building in which to repair them and space for a museum, a new sign has appeared in midtown Sanford: Fieros Forever Michigan.

"This has been six, seven years in the making. This building had been vacant and tumble-down for years," said Evans, who owns the building and repairs and sells Fieros on the premises at 357 Saginaw. "We had to start from scratch almost."

General Motors built Fieros from 1984 until the last cars rolled off the assembly line in July 1988.

"It was the first car General Motors did with this body style. It was built by Pontiac division," Evans said.

Before Evans could work on cars, Evans had to gut the building, remove gas tanks under the eye of state Department of Environmental Quality and spend about $10,000 revamping a former gas station and motorcycle shop, located in central Midland County.

"I put my new sign up about three weeks ago. Before that, it said Bob's Car Wash and people stopped in to see about a car wash," said Evans, an architect who supervised the green upgrade of the building from insulation to lighting.

The building and next door parking lot is jammed with 38 Fieros in "various stages of running," laughed Evans, 63.

The Fieros in nearly any color await repair.

"The Fiero had a steel chassis when it came off the line, and it was drivable with no body panels. It was then built with five body parts: the front, the back, the floor, the top and the doors," Evans said.

The frames were put through a "mill and drill" machine that put all the steel parts together with screws and welds on the flat parts and then the plastic panels were put on, Evans explained. Some were convertibles.

The engine is placed mid-car over the drive wheels under a roof-top roll bar.

The car used half the steel that other cars used, angering the steel companies, and it competed with the Corvette for style, Evans said.

"Half the car is not capable of rust," Evans said.

The earliest cars had four-cylinder engines and the later ones, six-cylinder. Evans said when the cars were tested with bigger engines, they outperformed Corvettes in proving ground races. They initially cost $8,000; by the last year, they cost $12,000 to $16,000.

In 1984, Fiero built the three pace cars for the Indianapolis 500.

About 2,000 replica pace cars were built for dealers to sell to the public and 30 were given to race officials. Collectors haved tracked 271 down, Evans said, pointing at his.
Evans also stores hoods, fenders, doors and replacement parts for the cars at his Sanford building.

His museum room features pictures, posters, collectibles, and more information of Fieros, their builders, their history and their models. Halki Aldikacti, GM engineer, is considered the father of the Fiero. Evans has his signature in one of his cars.

"I have people come in here and at shows telling me they worked on the Fiero line, or 'I worked on that part of the car,' " said Evans.

The museum is open from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Saturdays. Evans gets five or six calls a week to show it. The museum sells clothes from the Michigan Fieros club and is gearing up to monogram clothing. Evans also expects to expand into selling kit cars.

There are a handful of Fiero clubs in Michigan and others scattered throughout the country. In July, Fiero lovers came to Sanford for a Fieros cruise.
For the museum, call (989) 687-2905. For more Fiero information, visit michiganfieroclub.com.

48
General Discussion / Toyota Sponsafier
« on: February 12, 2010, 07:30:03 pm »
Have you seen the Toyota "sponsafier"? They have flash app. that lets you paint a Toyota NASCAR. The winner gets to have a car painted with their design & tickets & a ride around the track in the car. Of course, it's apparent that those with "friends" at MySpace are getting the most votes. So I'm looking for a little help....
Go to:
http://www.sponsafier.com/#/gallery/page:0/pageSize:8/
Vote for your favorite car - I hope it's one of mine! ;)
Mine are:
Scallops w/fade
Mikey Diagonal
Mike 1 (this is the sorta kinda tentative idea I have for the VW Cabriolet).
http://www.sponsafier.com/share/592
http://www.sponsafier.com/share/574
http://www.sponsafier.com/share/553
I tried to paint them to look good AFTER all the sponsor decals are added...
Thanks!
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

Which do you most can't the least?
What I most can't the least, would be do not a bad job but always a good.

49
Folks are always asking about this, so here are some basics & part numbers.
- On the SMC fiberglass (hoods & roof panels), always use a product specifically made for SMC, such as "Vette Panel Adhesive/Filler". I use "Fiberglass Evercoat" part #870. As the name implies, you can use it for filler or for bonding SMC panels - as well as other fiberglass panels. Always grind out the damage (or surface to be bonded) with 24 grit discs. Fill & rough-in using 40 grit, finish with 80 & then 180 (always use some type of block to get the flat surface/contour).
- On the bumpers (which are "RIM"), SEM part #39708 works well. It should also work well on "RRIM" panels - the door skins, fenders, & 1/4 panels. When repairing damage, SLOWLY grind the back of the damage with 24 grit discs. If you grind too fast, you'll melt the material & close the pores & nothing will stick. Chop up some fiberglass mat with scissors into 1/4" strands & mix with the repair material, fill to 1/8" thick at the repair, at least 1" beyond the damage. Once that dries, "V" out the front of the damage/tear with a small grinder using a 24 grit disc. Fill that with the same material; 'glass strands not required but will add strength. Grind/sand/finish down to a final grit of 180 & prime.
- If you need to strip old paint off (only necessary if the car has been painted  since it left the factory), you can use chemicals if you're very careful. "Aircraft Stripper" is the best brand name for strong stripper. You can use this on the SMC panels, but be careful not to get any on bare panels/exposed SMC (& follow all instructions). It can also be used on the RRIM, if you're VERY careful not to get any on the bare panel (exposed plastic). "Bumper Stripper" (comes in a spray can) can be used on the RIM (bumpers) & the RRIM panels. You still have to avoid letting it soak into any bare spots. The paint store I use carries the "Bulldog" brand of bumper stripper - product #EUP367.
You only need to use chemicals to save time if the paint is too thick to sand off "eaisly".
- If the paint is not too thick or it still has factory paint (or after you use a chemical stripper), sand it with 180 dry on a DA. Factory paint only needs to be sanded smooth, feathering any edges that go through (or where clear or color is flaking). Hand sand everything you can't get to with the DA, using 180 dry or 320 wet. An alternative if you don't have a DA sander is 180 dry or 320 wet by hand, but it'll take a long time to do the whole car (wet sanding is faster).
- Rough in repairs (fillers) with 40 grit; finish repairs with 80 grit & then smooth somewhat with 180 grit. Don't smooth so much as to dip out the surface below level.
- Cover the entire car with PPG epoxy primer. I use the DP50LF, with DP401LF catalyst. The 401 catalyst is recommended for flexible parts (read the tech sheet it has an induction period). You can use 402 catalyst on everything except the bumpers (no induction period). OR: epoxy prime just the damage/repair areas in order to help the high-build stick (in the next step), & prime the whole car after blocking that out.
- On any filled/repair areas prime with high-build over the epoxy (if your repairs are a little rough). Brand depends on your local paint store. Any good brand-name catalyst-hardened high-build should be fine. You can shoot that over the PPG epoxy within 20 minutes, or wait a couple days. After that, sand the epoxy with 180 wet before shooting the high-build. You can shoot the high-build over the entire panel, if it's wavy & needs blocking to flatten it out. But DON'T build up the high-build very thick on any flexible parts. Block the high-build primer with 180 wet using a paint paddle (on "flat" surfaces) & a dense sponge pad (on the more curved surfaces). I use 3M pads #5526 & Mirror-Glaze pads # E-7200. Use a "guide coat" of flat black spray paint LIGHTLY dusted on the area to show up the imperfections when sanding.
- If you have imperfections that the primer doesn't fill (ie you can still see the guide coat in them after blocking), scratch them out with 80 grit & fill with a good catalyst-hardened putty/glaze; I use "Fiberglass Evercoat" part #416. Final finish that with 180 wet. Always use a paint paddle or sponge pad (or similar block).
- If you have the rest of the car smooth, re-prime just the area of the repairs with the PPG epoxy primer. (Or if you've only epoxy primed the damage, now prime the whole car.) Final sand the whole car with 400 wet & shoot your base/clear. If you REALLY have the car smooth before priming, you can shoot over the epoxy primer after 20 minutes without sanding.
- Type of paint will depend mostly on your budget & local paint store. If you want the best, use top-of-the line PPG (Ditzler) or Sikkens. Be prepared for sticker shock. A good cheaper paint is Dupont Nason. Always use base/clear for the best looking, longest lasting paintjob.
- For buffing, I usually sand the clear starting with 1000 wet (again on paddles & sponge pads) to get it flat. After that, sand with 2000 wet on a sponge pad. Alternatives vary with the brands of clear: Sometimes you can just sand it with 1500 dry on a DA & buff. Buff with a white sponge pad (I use 3M Perfect-It #5723) on a buffer using 3M Perfect-It compound #6085 or #6062. On harder clears (or if you haven't sanded out all of the 1000 grit scratches), you may need a higher-cut compound #5936. Final polish with black sponge pads 3M #5725 using a good "machine glaze" (I use 3M #5996 & other similar alternatives) or "Foam Pad Polish".
NOTE: Most sandpapers are pretty much the same as far as grit, except for some cheaper brands which you have to be careful with (1000 wet may leave 800 scratches). Best to buy 3M brand, but to save money ask your supplier about the quality of the sandpaper he stocks.
* Most all aftermarket fiberglass parts will need to be epoxy primed & high-build primed to block them out smooth, then of course a final coat of epoxy to seal it.
* Adding the final coat of epoxy as a sealer also helps with adhesion of the paint. If the surface is smooth, you can start shooting paint over the epoxy without sanding as soon as 20 minutes. If it's not quite smooth (or if you want it really slick) you can wet sand the epoxy primer with 400 before painting.
* I do NOT suggest bonding any parts such as fiberglass to the RIM or RRIM panels. They have vastly different expansion rates & will most likely crack out. You MAY get away with bonding pieces of the same materials together, but the flexible shtuff is still iffy. If you try it, use the above product specifically for that material. ** Slight addendum... I'm making fiberglass fender vents & they seem to work well bonded to the back of the fenders with the SEM part #39708, if you grind the surfaces with a 24 grit disc. I still don't recommend you bond large parts to the plastic panels.
** New info: For the semi-flat black parts (engine vents) SEM (brand name) makes a "Hot Rod black" kit HR010 that has everything but the sandpaper & primer.
***More info: For maximum adhesion on hard plastic parts (like side moldings & interior trim) you need to use a primer specifically made for plastic. I use PPG part #DPX 801 . A light coat (it's very thin) will actually soften the plastic so the paint will melt in. With that any good brand name semi-flat or satin black will stick. "Trim black" & "Bumper Coating" are usually made in a semi-flat formula & should look great. Always try a test panel if you're trying to match another piece.
HTH,
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

50
I need to get rid of some more cars & shtuff. The Mustang needs a hood, windshield, headlight parts & some of the interior put back together - & some TLC. Runs & drives. $400 OBO drives it home. I know of a fiberglass cowl hood for $200 if it's still there.
The fridge is a side x side avocado. Yeah I know but you can paint it. Come get it free. I just put it outside...
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

Did you hear about the guy who was proud when he completed a jigsaw puzzle in 30 minutes? Yeah it said "5 to 6 years" on the box.

51
General Discussion / Photos of the VW project
« on: December 01, 2009, 02:43:41 pm »
Well I haven't been able to access these forums for a day or two...
Here is a link to photos of the VW project. For those that don't know, it's a '90 VW Cabriolet (think Rabbit convertible) with '88 Fiero running gear/suspension & a mid-engine SBC.  ;D  http://angelonearth.net/VW.html
Still a long way to go, but folks keep asking for update pics so here they are. I'll try to keep it updated.
I know some of you have posted in my PFF thread about it; I also know some (a lot?) of folks don't like to go there. ;)
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

It was already on fire when I got here.

52
General Discussion / I just got a $100,000,000,000,000 bonus! NO LIE!
« on: October 14, 2009, 06:30:03 pm »
And that's not a typo! My brother just gave me a ONE HUNDRED TRILLION DOLLAR BONUS for helping him out! Only catch is it's Zimbabwe dollars. Seems they were like obama & decided to start printing out money to pay for all their programs. They printed so much that the value started dropping drasticly, and now it's worth almost nothing. So what is 1 hundred trillion in US dollars? At the current exchange rate it's $2.76!
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

A government big enough to give you everything you want, is big enough to take away everything you have.  - Thomas Jefferson.

53
The Market / Parting out Indy & '88 base coupe.
« on: August 20, 2009, 07:12:13 pm »
Got the two parts cars today. To my surprise, both are RUST FREE!!! Gee I hate to part out the Indy (especially).
However, If you need parts let me know.
Indy dash (no cracks - $60), door panels ($50 each), & some other interior panels are good. Center seat inserts don't look bad & I think will clean up (bolsters are worn/torn). Steering wheel $50.  Automatic center shift console $50 (not curled!). No rear console. B pillar trim $20 each. Carpet may be good. Electric mirrors: $40 for left & $20 for right (glass is missing). Front & rear facias & wing $100 each. Doors w/electric windows less mirrors & inside panels $100 each. All other body panels CHEAP. Indy Pics: http://angelonearth.net/IndyPage/

EDIT: No more '88. My helper wants to build it. He's selling parts including aero peices from his '86 (or the whole car if someone wants it).

If you're interested in the rust-free Indy spaceframe (with or without the suspension) let me know & we'll work out something. Hate to see it not being used.
All prices are you-pull-it. Club members & friends can use my tools. Can pull parts for $15 per hour. Will ship small parts
Come by & look at these. Just thought I'd give the club members first dibs before I post this other places.  ;)
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

"There's nothing better than towing home a new car." - Advance Auto Parts ad.

54
General Discussion / Surprise, surprise...
« on: August 03, 2009, 09:12:15 am »
Well today the secretay of state says obama may ???  have to break his campaign promise not to raise taxes on people making less than $250,000. With the defecit reaching TWO TRILLION DOLLARS - not including the healthcare program he's trying to pass - there is no way to NOT raise the taxes on the middle class.
The deficit has never reached ONE trillion before obama!
Surrrpriiiiiise, surrrpriiise...
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

Any society that would give up a little liberty to gain a little security will deserve neither and lose both. - Benjamin Franklin

55
Hi everyone,
I'm getting more Fieros & parts. Yeah I need them like a hole in the head. But I'm getting a 3800 SC  :o :D so I don't need the current 3800. Its out of a '95 Buick, & comes with the wiring & ECU. I'd still like to have a 3.4 for the solo car, so I'll trade even for a good shortblock. Email me at ImThaDriver at yahoo for more details.
BUT WAIT THERE'S MORE!!!! That's right if you act now (actually when I get them home) there will also be an Indy & an '88 sunroof car available - cheap. In addition to the RUST-FREE '88 T-Top that I still have. I haven't seen the new cars, but I'm sure they're projects. The Indy dosen't have an engine. That's about all I know about them so far.
I MAY be willing to trade your labor for one of the cars or parts/engine. Depending on what I wind up with, & your level of experience with Fieros. (Hey Rob you want som'more Fieros?)  :D
Later,
Paul

56
General Discussion / Think this is a FREE country?
« on: July 03, 2009, 07:51:41 am »
Have you heard the latest on obama's socialist agenda? In the new bill, IF YOU REFUSE TO BUY HEALTH INSURANCE YOU WILL BE FINED!!!!  WTF? How the hell are you going to be able to pay a fine if you can't afford health insurance???? I guess if you can't pay the fine they'll PUT YOU IN JAIL.
It's going to be where you can't WALK DOWN THE STREET without paying the government (& their co-horts - the INSURANCE CARTEL) for that freedom!!!! You will be REQUIRED to carry a health ins. card to WALK DOWN THE STREET.
I warned folks years ago about the insurance cartel getting mandatory auto insurance passed, that it was just the beginning.
A FREE country? We haven't been truly free in decades - & IT"S GETTING WORSE BY THE DAY!
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

Any society that would give up a little liberty to gain a little security will deserve neither and lose both. - Benjamin Franklin

57
Tech Tips, Tech Questions / Who has a 3800? Need a measurement...
« on: June 21, 2009, 06:39:32 am »
Hi everyone,
OK it looks like I'm going to go ahead & put the 3800 in the custom car, since no one seems to want it & I haven't found another engine.
What I would like to know, is how much clearence there is in front of the engine (between engine & firewall & hood hinges, etc.). I'm thinking of mounting it a little more forward than usual to give more room for the exhaust.
Can someone give me measurements?
TIA,
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

I know that you think you understood what you thought I said, but I'm not sure you realize that what I said was not what I was thinking I wanted to say or meant.

58
Since some folks have problems accessing pics from my server, I made a webpage. ;-)
http://angelonearth.net/BMW.html
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

Drunk chicks dig me!

59
General Discussion / Been offline....
« on: May 13, 2009, 03:43:05 am »
OK so thanks to windstream not willing to straighten out the bill, they cut it off (even though I was paying every month in good faith).
So I haven't been online for nearly 6 weeks. What have I missed?  :P
I did get my BMW painted. I'll put some pics online as soon as I get this new computer configured for FTP. Yep I had to load another computer to get back online. My windoze 2000 fried the harddrive (thanks to LOUSY Jackson EMC electrical service!), & I've had no luck at all trying to load the OP on the new harddrive.
But in spite of everything, I'm baaaaack!  ;D
Later,
~ Paul

60
The Market / Everything for sale.
« on: February 26, 2009, 05:27:47 pm »
I'm just completely fed up with the entire situation & ready to get rid of anything & everything. Make me an offer.
RUST FREE '88 T-Top. Running & driving. Will part out. Who was asking at one time about just the glass roofs? Now is your chance. Body panels, rear suspension & cradle, front suspension & crossmember, entire roof, (seats & consoles are shot).
'88 Solo project - GT bumpers & side skirts, scoop 1/4 panels, no roof, lotsa sheetmetal cut out, gutted doors, trick headlights, lightweight steering column, etc.; no rear cradle.
'88 coupe sunroof car, most body panels missing, '84 Saddle interior, no rear cradle.
The custom '88 rear cradle w/new urethane & coilovers (no springs).
Fastback conversion parts. 10 peices: all the major parts for a conversion.
3800 - '95 Buick w/wiring harness & ecu.
2.8 long block.
'86 4-speed.
'88 automatic trans.
410 gear set.
4T60e
16" Racing Power 7-spoke wheels w/tires.
The custom body panels.
Black racing seats.
3-spoke steering wheel & column.
Hood & decklid hinges.
'88 headlights complete w/wiring & box (worked well).
Door, 1/4, & fender ground effects & r. rocker.
Fenders,
L. door complete.
Coupe taillights.
Beechwood steering wheel w/both horn paddles.
NICE brown/tan seat covers w/speaker holes.
Electric mirrors.
Rear spoiler.
We can go through the truck to see what else is in there...
'92  Mustang 4 cyl. automatic - $500. Needs hood, headlights, & windshield.
You can email me at ImThaDriver at yahoo & I'll send you my phone number.
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

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