Messages

1

Club Events / Re: April 12th (Saturday) Get-together

« on: April 03, 2025, 03:48:44 pm »

Everyone, you don't need to drive a Fiero to attend but you can if you want.  This isn't a Fiero meeting.  It's just friends getting together for lunch. 

2

Tech Tips, Tech Questions / Re: CV Axel replacement

« on: March 18, 2025, 03:05:50 pm »

The reason I mentioned using the short extension with the socket is because the force is applied equally to the socket. Just using a hammer direct to the socket only applies force to the point of contract and the seal can tilt.

3

General Discussion / Re: Any good storm stories to share?

« on: March 17, 2025, 08:41:13 pm »

I woke up once, saw two bright flashes of lightning, heard two very very distant claps of rolling thunder, and went back to sleep.  Apparently lots of rain judging by the puddle in the yard and water in the drainage ditch.  Not even any little springs of pine limbs in the yard.
We were on the very edge of the SW to NE path of the storms and by the time the main body passed over us, it must have somewhat died out. 

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General Discussion / Re: Any good storm stories to share?

« on: March 17, 2025, 04:38:51 pm »

We haven't heard from you.  Did y'all make it through OK?

5

Tech Tips, Tech Questions / Re: CV Axel replacement

« on: March 17, 2025, 04:33:39 pm »

Support the car on jack stands and the control arm with a floor jack, remove the axle nut, ball joint pinch bolt and pop the ball joint loose. Split the tie rod end loose from the knuckle and lower the control arm away from the knuckle.  I believe you can leave the caliper on the knuckle and rotor. I don't recall removing mine.You may have to unbolt the hose bracket from the fender wall

Save the washer behind the axel nut.  It's not available anywhere according to some members.  If your replacement axle doesn't come with a new nut, purchase one.  Don't use the old nut.

Once the hub and strut assembly is pulled loose from the axle, you can often give a hard yank on the axle and get it to pop out of the transmission.  Get a replacement axel seal.  Better yet, get two if you're like me.  I usually damage the first one.
AutoZone has the proper seal for the Getrag.  https://www.autozone.com/drivetrain/cv-axle-seal/p/gm-genuine-parts-cv-axle-shaft-seal-97029260/1253904_0_0?searchText=axle+seal  I have a set of one inch drive sockets and one of them is perfect for installing the seal when used with a short extension.  Works better than the seal installation tool.
If the replacement shaft has the reluctor wheel on it, use a chisel and split it to remove it. 
When you bolt everything back up, torque the axle nut to 75 lb/ft then set it down on the ground with the center cap removed from your wheel.  Then torque the nut to 195 lb/ft

6

Tech Tips, Tech Questions / Re: CV Axel replacement

« on: March 17, 2025, 01:05:10 pm »

I'm just now seeing this. I'll reply when I get home.

7

Tech Tips, Tech Questions / Re: IAC control input

« on: March 13, 2025, 02:09:07 pm »

Per your reference, I checked the MAP vacuum connections and didn't find anything loose but I didn't disconnect it to do the test because I've expended all my vacuum caps.  There were never any trouble codes set until the Code 44 briefly triggered the light. 

8

Tech Tips, Tech Questions / Re: IAC control input

« on: March 13, 2025, 10:26:24 am »

It appears the MAP sensor controls the IAC. After sitting all night, the car started and idled smoothly this morning.

I have read some reports that say the MAP sensor can be damaged if the engine backfires or coughs back through the intake. A Pennocks thread once said that it could also blow the vacuum line off the bottom. I found that was the answer on the 88 Coupe I once owned.

So if you're having a hunting isle condition, check out the MAP sensor first. Mine never set a trouble code.

9

Tech Tips, Tech Questions / Re: IAC control input

« on: March 12, 2025, 05:16:59 pm »

The car sat for about 4 hours so I felt it was cool enough that it would be in open loop.  I replaced the MAP sensor but the hunting and stalling was still there.  The good news is that even though I had to hold the throttle at high idle, it very quickly settled down, like within a minute or two.  Tomorrow morning will be the true indicator as it will sit overnight before I head out for an appointment. 

10

Tech Tips, Tech Questions / Re: IAC control input

« on: March 12, 2025, 12:31:35 pm »

I drove the car Tuesday afternoon and the highway drive smoothed out and returned to normal after the 30 minute highway drive.  Warm idle is normal. 

This morning, Wednesday, I started it and the hunting idle and stalling is still there when cold.  I have one more thing to replace, so I will pull a MAP sensor off the shelf and see if that's the cure.  After that, there are no more sensors to replace that would possibly affect the idle except to go back and replace another IAC and TPS sensor. 

11

Tech Tips, Tech Questions / Re: IAC control input

« on: March 11, 2025, 02:44:29 pm »

I replaced the ecm, o2 sensor, and CTS, one at a time in that order. They didn't solve the problem, but I haven't driven it on the highway, yet.

12

Tech Tips, Tech Questions / Re: IAC control input

« on: March 10, 2025, 10:27:30 pm »

I purchased a new CTS with plans to install it tomorrow if the ECM swap doesn't correct the problem.  As I was leaving the parts store, the Service Engine Soon light briefly popped on.  Car was running lousy all the way to and from the parts store.  When I got home, I checked the code, expecting it to be the EGR code 32 since it came on and went off.  I was surprised to see 44 pop up.  o2 sensor.  I'll pick up one tomorrow when I return the CTS and we'll see what goes from there.  Still may swap in the 87 ECM just to get rid of the SHIFT light. 

13

Tech Tips, Tech Questions / Re: IAC control input

« on: March 10, 2025, 02:02:48 pm »

My CTS is relatively new, but it could still be bad.  I once had a CTS totally fail to the cold side while I was sitting at a traffic light on Ga. 316.  Looked like a diesel truck when they make it blow the black smoke. The ECM was telling it that it needed a quart of fuel per minute per injector, the way it was smoking.  I actually unplugged it and drove from the garage to the auto parts store to get a new sensor,  It never threw a code until I unplugged it, and it actually ran pretty good, compared.   

My car doesn't run rich, it just drops so low that it stalls.  Once it's warmed up, it's great, so maybe you're onto something.  I've never checked the Ohms when it was cold to see what temp it's indicating.  I'm going to change out the ECM first (no cost to do that) before I get another CTS. 

14

Tech Tips, Tech Questions / Re: IAC control input

« on: March 09, 2025, 10:21:12 pm »

The car sat for about 2 years at Scott's before it got the new engine.  When we first started it, the injectors had gone bad, so I had them refurbished at Injector Connection.  On the day I started home, I made it about 10 miles and those injectors crapped out on me.  I bought new FJ9 injectors from a company in Florida and that's what's in it now.

I have an 85 ECM and I also have the ECM from my 87 after the 7730 conversion, plus another 87 ECM.  When the weather permits I'll try your suggestion of changing out the ECM. 

A curious thing about this one is that since that battery cable melted and the main cable came loose from the terminal, leaving the chassis power lead to the C500, any time the ECM loses its power, restarting the engine results in something that sounds almost like it's 180 out of time and is difficult to keep running until the computer starts to pick up some sensor information as the engine warms up.  I've never had this result on any Fiero after clearing codes to the ECM. 

You may be onto something with the ECM being the issue.  I'll let you know.  May be a couple of days.   

15

Tech Tips, Tech Questions / IAC control input

« on: March 08, 2025, 12:46:22 pm »

The IAC isn't really a sensor in and of itself though it's function output acts as a sensor.  What other sensor causes the IAC to react?

I have set the TPS to exactly 0.50 volts at idle throttle plate position.  The CTS was replaced shortly after the 3.1 engine was installed.  I may have even replaced the MAP sensor and I think the O-2 sensor has also been replaced.  The IAC was replaced with a new one but didn't resolve the problem.  All these were replaced at least a year ago. 

The 87 engine that was in the car would immediately start and idle smoothly any time it was started, whether hot or cold.  Everything from the old engine was transferred to the current engine but it will not idle at cold start.  The idle fluctuates up then down and stalls.  The accelerator must be held at high idle until it does go into closed loop and even then it will waver until it reaches near full operating temperature.  Once it does, it idles perfectly. 

Anyone have any ideas what might be telling the IAC to constantly adjust when it's cold?