Bad clutch slave cylinder mechanism?

[pgackerman]

No completed project stays finished... 

There I was rejoicing my '87 GT's keyless entry was working when I decided to take the car for a victory lap.  After all, I hadn't driven it since last year.

Shifting was a bit hard.  The clutch pedal felt a little soft and I couldn't get into reverse.  Eventually it went into reverse and I took the car around the block.  Had trouble getting into first at a stop sign so I put it in second and drove home to check the clutch fluid.

The fluid was brownish/black with a bit of scum on top.  Using paper towers, I cleaned out the obvious mess and put in (just opened) DOT3 brake fluid.  Started the car back up and couldn't get into reverse.

My guess is the slave cylinder mechanism is the problem.  I'm basing this on what I've read and my experiences with a '79 VW Rabbit and an '82 Datsun 210.   

However, I trust the Fiero wisdom found on this forum and look forward to your guidance; as well as any video, pictures, links, or any other information.

Thanks.

[f85gtron]

bleed the slave first.  you can gravity bleed by packing nose up an inline, open the clutch master reservoir and fill it up.  then open up the bleeder on the slave an let gravity do it's thing.  keep an eye on the fluid and keep the reservoir topped up. Let it flow until you get clear fluid out. then,finally, the last step is to get the last bubbles out of the slave.  put the cover back on the master, then put vise grips on the end of the slave push rod, open the bleeder again all the way, and push the push rod into the slave, hold, and close the bleeder, then you can let go of the push rod.  you may have to do it a couple times to get the hang of it.
...or, you could just get someone to help.....

[Fierofool]

The slave is generally the part that will go bad when the car sits.  That's because the pushrod end of the bore is exposed to the atmosphere when the piston retracts back into the bore.  The master cylinder piston sits at the back end of the bore, so its seals don't travel over rust and varnish buildup.  But because brake fluid is hydroscopic and absorbs water, the bore on either can become rusted or pitted. 

Pop the rubber dust caps off both and inspect for fluid.  Fluid leaks aren't always visible because the fluid can be retained inside the boot. 

I would change one thing on Ron's gravity bleed method.  Getting to the slave pushrod can be difficult with the heat shielding in the way.  If you can park the car on a steep incline at a 45 degree angle, nose uphill, substitute 'tap on the side of the slave' for pushing in the slave pushrod.  It will dislodge air bubbles in the slave and allow them to move upward to the bleeder valve.  If you don't have a steep incline, jacking up the front left until the wheel clears the ground will have the same effect. 

The slave is essentially horizontal and lower than the master cylinder.  Elevating the left front raises the MC above the slave and tips the bleeder end of the slave upward at the same time.  It's a one person job and no helper or pumping is needed. 

As with the cables, if you need to replace either slave or master, go to Rodney Dickman. 

Hope you two can hold your CSRA meeting with us on the 11th. 

[f85gtron]

we might have to run a mini-convoy over to the ATL.  I call "Rubber Ducky" handle!

[Fierofool]

It's about a 2 hour drive each way, 1 1/2 hours in a Fiero and 2 tanks of fuel in a V6.