help with wiring under dash and near battery

[Roger]

If you can read both ends of the ex-fusible link let us know. I have spares and may have the one you need. I'll even send you some heat shrink with it.

Never ever ever ever crimp a connection and leave it. It will go bad exactly when you don't need it to. Solder is the best and ONLY way to make a reliable connection.
I always spread a little bit of RTV over the connection and then slide the heat shrink over it. Some is going to ooze out but just wipe that off. Your connection is now waterproof!
And don't even think about using electrical tape around the engine.

[jeffwilson34]

It is definetly going to have to have a new box/harness
I was checking some connections and a few fell apart and one shorted out and sparked
I then removed the battery and got a good look.
It appears that the harness from the back is from one car he c500 from another and the harness going forwards is possibly from another.   The wire colors from the two harnesses are mostly the same colors but the box is definetly not and after removing it is found it he been very hot at some time close to burning.    If I can not find a box I think I can use a fuse box that I have that is a spare for my vette.
It will require the service manuals so I will be able to trace down each circuit.
My altenator is also going to need replaced     Has anyone had an own rebuilt and converted to a one wire do that it does not have to rely on the car ECM to keep it charged.
The one on my 98 vette has been that way for years with no issues.

All splices will be soldered and double shrink wrapped

[f85gtron]

It shouldn't be any problem convert to a one wire alt. The small guage wire is just for the warning light anyway, although, it is important to the original alternator, in that, that write also is used as the sensor wire.
The only problem you'll have is not having an idiot light.

[jeffwilson34]

If you can read both ends of the ex-fusible link let us know. I have spares and may have the one you need. I'll even send you some heat shrink with it.

Never ever ever ever crimp a connection and leave it. It will go bad exactly when you don't need it to. Solder is the best and ONLY way to make a reliable connection.
I always spread a little bit of RTV over the connection and then slide the heat shrink over it. Some is going to ooze out but just wipe that off. Your connection is now waterproof!
And don't even think about using electrical tape around the engine.

Thanks, I will let you know.     

[jeffwilson34]

I have been messaging     Tha Driver   he has an  86 SE automatic   that is stripped but the wiring is still there.
He is going to send me pictures  of what he has so hopefully it will match up with mine  since they are both 86SE's with automatic  transmissions.
I knew when I bought it that the wiring had was bad ,  I just did nit know how bad.    Had I looked closer under the dash and saw that someone actually used a light switch from a house to activate the cooling fan. I doubt  I would have bought it.                     

[jeffwilson34]

It shouldn't be any problem convert to a one wire alt. The small guage wire is just for the warning light anyway, although, it is important to the original alternator, in that, that write also is used as the sensor wire.
The only problem you'll have is not having an idiot light.

I  can live with no light, I plan on adding the GT style gauge pod at some time plus my radar detector is one of the Cobra made to integrate with a smart Phone that connects to a cobra APP on the phone and one of the available  screens    shows car voltage and speed.     

[Roger]

  Eyegor! Throw the last switch!

[jeffwilson34]

I spent most of today with a multi meter, printed pages from a few sites showing the wire colors and pinouts of the c500 block, a couple dozen test jumper wires with alligator clips on both sides. and wire cutter/strippers.
I cut the wires back to where they were copper colored and not black.   Then I used the jumpers to connect the ones I knew for sure were correct. 
The exterior lights as well as dash lights work. The engine started (still had to start it with a 12v jumper to the selonid it has never worked from the switch) and it ran  smother than it had before, when it warmed the idle dropped like it was supposed to. Heater works fine  (no ac compressor)
What did not work was any of the gauges nor idiot lights. The radio did not work but by supplying power to the radio fuse it did work.    The alternator which I thought was bad because it was only showing 12.1 volts  at most and the battery light would glow from dim to bright before now worked fine and showed 13.2 Volts.   I have several wires I am bit sure about and lots of them seem to be green.
I an getting a c500 and one plug from parts car that  tha driver has   It is also an 86se auto.   After I get it and get what I am sure about working and properly wired I will start working on the other things.   

for not it is sitting with the battery out,  but it could be made to run if needed for an emergency.

At one point I was so aggravated I started to sell it to a guy that ask about it and offered me $1000
I knew that it had wiring issues  when I bought it, I just did not know how bad till I started  repairing it.

[f85gtron]

Hang in there. You'll be happy you did. When you'll be chasing the tail of the Dragon, it'll all make perfect sense.

[Fierofool]

We're not only going to chase the Tail of The Dragon, we're going to go right up it, all the way to the head.

[GrannyLinda]

Awesome Graphic