Power Window Problem

[pgackerman]

Had a great week using my '87 Fiero GT, 5-speed as a daily driver.  But today the passenger side window wouldn't go up.  So I disconnected the switch by the stick, put it back together, and it worked.  Raised and lowered the window a few times, then left it down for awhile.  Guess what?  It won't go back up.

So I tried the disconnect-reconnect trick again and it didn't work.  I'm considering connecting the passenger-side wires to the driver-side button.  Then I'll know if the problem is with the wiring or the button.

The problem definitely happens when the window is all the way down.


Any other ideas? 

[Fierofool]

The shape of the 2 sides is different, so you'd have to remove the wiring from both and reinsert into the other in order to make that work or insert jumper wires and connect them to the other switch.  I've heard of people taking the switch apart and cleaning the contacts on the inside.  Be careful if you disassemble the switch, itself.  There's a couple of small springs that seem to have wings.  Be sure the window is up before you undertake any switch repairs, just in case Murphy takes over. 

The weight of the window mechanism will cause a weak system to fail to raise the window.   

You can remove the inner door panel and lubricate the tracks and mechanism.  Use WD-40 on the tracks at the front and rear of the window.  White lithium grease on rollers and mechanism joints. 

Here's something that might help with your situation.  Being sure you have good ground contacts to the body will also help.

http://rodneydickman.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=21&products_id=271

[Roger]

Check your G301 Ground connection.
It is located in the passenger side footwell, right side, upper, just in
front of the Power Door Lock Relay.

Sit in the passenger side. Draw an imaginary line straight up from the middle
of your shin of your right leg. Make a 90 degree turn toward the outside.
G301 is under the dash on the side of the well. It is behind the carpet.

Make certain this connection has no rust. Remove the screw, scrub the connector(s)
and the frame with emory (crocus) cloth, smear some light bulb grease where you
scrubbed and reinstall the connection. This is also the same ground used for
Power Mirrors if you have them or install them at a later time.

Get a short length of wire, color not important but 18 gauge is as small as you should go.
Remove the appropriate window switch from its connector.
Start the engine. Since the windows drain a lot of juice from the battery it is good
to keep the amps up.
Place one end of your wire into the connector that has the PINK wire.
Touch the other end to the connector with the DARK BLUE/WHITE wire.
The window should go up.
If I got my colors mixed up instead of the dark blue/white, touch the TAN connector.

If this doesn't work, copious amounts of Saran Wrap and Duct Tape will keep out the
cold and rain for short term periods.

FIRST AND FOREMOST MARK THE BOTTOM AND SIDE OF THE SWITCH SO THAT YOU
CAN REASSEMBLE IT CORRECTLY. IT CAN BE REINSTALLED UPSIDE DOWN.

Then as Fierofool said, CAREFULLY disassemble the switch. The springs inside it are like fleas.
They can jump 9 inches straight up and 5 feet sideways. Clean the contacts, smear some
bulb grease on the contacts and reassemble the switch.
Then follow his procedure on the mechanism.

Now try moving the window SLIGHTLY using the switch.

We'll keep our finger crossed. Let us know if you find any bugs along the way.

Now, have some Rum.
That's ok. I'll have some for you.

[TopNotch]

Illustrated window switch repair <- click here.

[pgackerman]

Found the G301 Ground connection.  It looks good.  Didn't entirely remove it because it appears to be in such good condition and the passenger side power mirror works.
 
Tried the short length of wire trick.  Nothing happened.  Didn't start the engine since the drivers side window was going up and down.  What ohmmeter measurements should I be getting?


Saran Wrap and Duct Tape - keeping this idea in mind.

Is the switch the next item to try?  I'd like to make sure power is getting to the switch first.

[TopNotch]

Saran Wrap and Duct Tape - keeping this idea in mind.

Actually, a clear plastic shower curtain (from Wal-mart) makes a much better source of material for temporary window repair. been there, done that.

[pgackerman]

Pulled out the trusty voltmeter and placed the probes on the pink and other colors, with the car running.  Nothing registered. 

The G301 ground looks good and the passenger side power mirror moves.
The passenger window doesn't seem to be getting any power.  There's no sound indicating it's even trying to move.
The direct wire connect had no effect (Spliced an old appliance cord).

This leads me to believe the connection inside the door came loose.  BTW, how do I get the door panel off?

Any comments?

[Fierofool]

This comes from the same shop manual that brought you Saran Wrap and Wal-Mart Shower Curtains as a viable replacement for door glass.

Attach a come-along between each arm rest door pull and while seated in either seat, begin to wratchet the come-along.  You'll just have to take your chances that the correct door panel comes off first. 

What you'll need to remove:  The diamond shaped plug at the top of the door pull, the large phillips screw behind it, two large phillips screws from the bottom contour of the arm rest, the small black button inside the door handle surround along with the Pegasus badge. 

Using a small flat blade screw driver about 1/8 inch wide, pry out the button behind the inside door handle.  At the center top of the Pegasus badge, insert the screwdriver at a downward 45 degree angle and while pushing downward on the screwdriver, leverage it toward the outside of the door.  Once removed, remove the screws behind the badge and the button.  Slide the door latch forward and pull outward on the rearward end while holding the front.  It's held on by a C shaped casting on the back of the latch.  You'll have to maneuver the trim plate around in order to get it over the handle.  Trial and error works here.

It's best that you have a GM door panel and trim remover.  It's basically just a flat piece of metal with a V split in the end.  Slide it underneath the door panel, starting at the lower rear corner.  Once you locate the umbrella fastener, reposition your tool to be sure it slides over the umbrella fastener.  Leverage the fastener out.  Continue around the door panel from that point, sliding the tool along until you feel the next fastener.  Again, relocate to be sure the tool straddles the umbrella fastener.  You can test this by trying to move the tool to either side. 

There are two fasteners that you should be acutely aware of.  They're located at the top of the door panel.  One at the front and one at the back.  They're installed into a piece of metal that's stamped into the back of the door panel.  They're located inboard about 3 inches from the edge of the panel and just below the flat plane of the top of the door panel.  If you pull these metal stampings out of the pressboard, you won't be able to reattach them.  It could cause the top of the door panel to not stay fit and trim.  Also be aware that the lower rear corner umbrella fastener has the tip cut off for clearance inside the door.  The umbrella fasteners are available on the HELP shelf at the parts stores.  Observe the style and to what degree they're inserted into the back of the door panel. 

White lithium spray grease applied with a tube to anything inside the door that has a friction point, other than the felt window guide tracks on each end of the window.  WD-40 is your friend in those areas.

[Roger]

If you did not have 12VDC from the PINK wire to ground WITH the ignition on (NOT ACCESSORY) then your problem is not inside of the door.

[pgackerman]

Minor miracle today.  The window went up while driving around. 

Probably because I bought a tool to pull the door panel off and shook it at the car's nose.   Scared some sense into it. 

Still need to fix the problem, but now it doesn't need to be done NOW.

[pgackerman]

If you did not have 12VDC from the PINK wire to ground WITH the ignition on (NOT ACCESSORY) then your problem is not inside of the door.

Where is the problem?