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Author Topic: Paint, start to finish?  (Read 13973 times)

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GTRS Fiero

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Paint, start to finish?
« on: October 12, 2020, 09:39:30 pm »
Can a car be given a quality paint job in 1 day?  I know there are single-stage paints, and multi-stage paints, but have never heard of a paint job being well done in 1 day.  I'm fairly certain that the primer, paint, and clear-coat should take more than 1 day to dry.  I realize that some paints are more difficult than other paints, but just think of a standard, factory paint job.

TopNotch

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Re: Paint, start to finish?
« Reply #1 on: October 12, 2020, 10:22:44 pm »
I suppose you could rattle-can a car in one day. Personally, my finger would get tired of pushing that little button long before the car was finished.
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GTRS Fiero

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Re: Paint, start to finish?
« Reply #2 on: October 12, 2020, 10:31:41 pm »
So, 2-3 days for a good paint job?

Fierofool

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Re: Paint, start to finish?
« Reply #3 on: October 12, 2020, 11:15:53 pm »
Of course, it depends upon the condition of the candidate.  I've never had a car painted that didn't take about a week.  My 71 Opel Manta was in good condition and not needing bodywork.  My Honda Accord only had a fading clearcoat.  The 87 got a MAACO job on first go round.  All of them were at least a week.  All but the 87 were one-shot acrylic enamel or urethane without metallic. 

Now, Earl Sheib can do it in a day. 
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1.    The ones that learn by reading.
2.    The few who learn by observation.
3.    The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence and find out for themselves.    Will Rogers

GTRS Fiero

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Re: Paint, start to finish?
« Reply #4 on: October 12, 2020, 11:25:05 pm »
Earl Schaub?  Had them paint an '85 LTD for me.  No idea how long the paint job took.  I dropped the car off, and they reminded me about it, after a while.

Maaco took a week to paint the door on my brother's MX-6.

The spoiler on my Fiero took several days or so at John White.  I left my Fiero with the place for a month, to get the job done while I was out of the country.  After I landed back in the US, I called them.  They not only hadn't touched it, they had forgotten about it.  I forget all the details.

GTRS Fiero

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Re: Paint, start to finish?
« Reply #5 on: October 13, 2020, 05:54:07 pm »
Apparently, they bake the paint on, and it's ready in a few hours.

I saw Tha Driver on, last night.  Surprised he didn't comment.

Fierofool

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Re: Paint, start to finish?
« Reply #6 on: October 13, 2020, 06:46:26 pm »
I don't think you could get the water from wet sanding out of the cracks in time to do a finish paint in 1 day.  Maybe just scuff sand, wipe with PrepSol and shoot. 
There are three kinds of men:

1.    The ones that learn by reading.
2.    The few who learn by observation.
3.    The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence and find out for themselves.    Will Rogers

GTRS Fiero

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Re: Paint, start to finish?
« Reply #7 on: October 13, 2020, 06:51:07 pm »
Well, we'll see.  As always, the proof is in the pudding.  If the paint looks beautiful for another 200K miles, I won't complain.

Anything I should look for, before I sign off on the work?

Fierofool

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Re: Paint, start to finish?
« Reply #8 on: October 13, 2020, 07:53:03 pm »
Definitely overspray and orange peel and the paint should be hard.  Ray's paint had a soft feel and later developed large blisters.  Silver dollar size blisters.
There are three kinds of men:

1.    The ones that learn by reading.
2.    The few who learn by observation.
3.    The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence and find out for themselves.    Will Rogers

GTRS Fiero

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Re: Paint, start to finish?
« Reply #9 on: October 13, 2020, 08:12:43 pm »
Ok.  I can spot those.  I know that the paint sometimes loses its luster, after a while.  I'm worried about that.  I spoke with the body shop, today, and they said I'm the most picky person they've ever dealt with.  I told them to remember that I will not sign off, until I'm satisfied, so remember that picky part.

Tha Driver

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Re: Paint, start to finish?
« Reply #10 on: October 14, 2020, 02:02:58 am »
Apparently, they bake the paint on, and it's ready in a few hours.

I saw Tha Driver on, last night.  Surprised he didn't comment.

Am I being stalked?  ;D
One day? Bottom line is, no. If you tape it up, scuff/sand it, & shoot it, it won't last. Partly because the paint won't stick as well without priming, mostly because you just can't fully sand down in the cracks around the moldings & trim. It might look good for a little while, but it will start to flake/peel around the edges sooner or later.
This is why I like to disassemble the car as much as possible, & always use PPG DP epoxy primer as a base for everything. The DP primer sticks better than anything else, & everything sticks better to it than anything else. Helps reduce chipping, too.
The other thing about letting the primer dry completely is also important. If you need 2k hi-build primer (like over bodywork or to smooth things out), & you don't let it fully cure, that's when you get paint that dries down or dulls after a while. If you have a really smooth surface after sanding *factory* paint, you *can* shoot the DP & then shoot the paint after about 1/2 hour drying time. But I like to let the primer dry at least a couple days & sand it with 400 wet before painting.
I could go on, but I don't have the interest in writing a book right now.  :P
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

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GTRS Fiero

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Re: Paint, start to finish?
« Reply #11 on: October 14, 2020, 06:40:50 am »
No stalking.  I happened to see you online.  Since this is your thing (not mine), I was interested in your input.

The panels being painted are mostly off, and are devoid of paint.

GTRS Fiero

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Re: Paint, start to finish?
« Reply #12 on: October 17, 2020, 01:08:59 pm »
The panels are mostly still off, but should be on Monday.  So, that's 3 days of sitting.

GTRS Fiero

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Re: Paint, start to finish?
« Reply #13 on: October 20, 2020, 06:41:58 pm »
That was fun.  Well, it wasn't finished Monday.  Today, I went to get it, because they called and said it was finished.  The tires were flat, and a bunch of sensors weren't hooked up.  As far as the job they were supposed to do (replace hood, bumper, lights, grille, driver door, left fender, etc.), I'm not impressed.  Here is what I found:
1. The lights aim just anywhere, but not where you want.
2. The fender is mounted too far back, and several bolts are missing.  One bolt is loose.  The back of the fender isn't mounted correctly, and sticks out about 1/8".
3. The driver door has gaps between the door and the weatherstrip.  I can see daylight through them.  To demonstrate, I slid my credit card through the gaps, without touching either surface.
4. The plastic piece that goes under the second battery is missing.
5. The plastic insert for the fender is missing.
6. The clips that go under that aero piece under the bumper are about half missing.
7. The front of the driver door was flared to match the fender.
8. They used an angle-grinder on the base of the A-pillar.
9. The A-pillar isn't straight.  Apparently, they also bent it, as there was a dip at the top.  The dip was filled with body filler and painted, but the lines do not match, side to side.
10. The plastic piece that goes behind the lights is missing.
11. The plastic piece that goes around the latch and across the front above the grille and radiators is very broken.
12. The hood latch is bent, and the secondary release is too low.
13. The hood hinges are bent.
14. The hood itself does not set flat, and does not line up with anything.
15. The cowl was not installed correctly.  One of the fasteners was installed under the cowl, leaving an empty hole on the cowl.  The plastic piece in the corner between the cowl and the fender was cracked, likely because it was forced into place.
16. The grille does not line up anywhere.  Not one single edge lines up.  Each corner has a different issue.  One side of the top of the grille is below the cover, and the other side is above.  On the lower edge, part of the grille is in front of the fascia lip, and part behind.
17. One of the proximity sensors is black, but the other 3 are silver.
18. The left A-pillar is no longer flush with the windshield, and I suspect there are issues with the seal on the windshield.
19. The left headlight, aside from aiming at the sky, is mounted too low, and is recessed.
20. The air dam is not mounted correctly.
21. As far as the paint itself, it looks OK, except that there are glops of buffing compound all over.
22. The front of the fender liner is mounted 1 hole too high, and the inner fasteners are missing.  The back has 2 of 6 fasteners, but is too far in, which means they likely drilled holes.
23. I'm not sure what happened to the skirting.
24. The aluminum skid plates are missing.
25. There are braces on either side of the grille that are missing.  Or, there aren't braces on their side of the grille, and there used to be.
26. A bunch of the fins on the AC radiator are damaged.
27. There is a missing piece by the main battery.
28. The air box is cracked, because the front is pushed back into the air box.
29. Two fasteners are missing near the hood latch.
30. Looking up from underneath, where the bumper pushes up too high on the left side, there is a plastic piece that was damaged by the bumper being mounted incorrectly.

I suspect that many of the new plastic parts they installed will have to be replaced again.  If they drilled holes in the fender to mount those other things, I will insist that the fender be replaced again.

I'm still not sure how to verify if the paint was done correctly or not.

GTRS Fiero

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Re: Paint, start to finish?
« Reply #14 on: October 22, 2020, 06:22:12 pm »
Well, some of the issues had been fixed.  There were some paint blisters, which I had them buff out.  The panels do not line up as they did, which the shop says is a fault of the panels.  The hood was still wrong, but I had them fix that.  The door seals are visibly OK, but still leak air on the highwsy.  All the fasteners are present.  The headlights are fastened correctly, as is the fender.  All the nolts appear to be present and secured.

They cannot find the plastic pieces for the battery snd fender, but claim they won't fit on the new OEM fender.

The plastic piece above the radiator was replaced, but is warped.  The latch was replaced.  The hood hindes were straightened.  The cowl is now installed correctly.  The proximity sensors match.  The A-pillar was fixed.  The air dam and fender liner were replaced, again.

They csnnot find the skid plates.

The skirting is installed.  The grille braces are installed.  It has a new radiator.  The air box was replaced.

The battery is mounted differently, without the piece for the second battery.

I had them secure the intake correctly.

The final price went up by $3,817 between when they said it was ready before, and now.  I'm sure they submitted supplemental claims.