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[Pegasus]

It going to take a lot longer to get this thing roadworthy than i thought.
I forgot to mention that I disconnected the TCC before my short test drive, but it was still dying when it came to a stop.

[Pegasus]

I had to fill and drain the cooling system 4 times! Stays nice and cool now though. That's one more off the list.
Still to go:
-Brakes
-Check engine light
-Cluster
-Cooling fan switch
-Headlights
-Tail Lights
-Side lights
-Turn/Hazard lights
-Misc. lights

[Fierofool]

A couple of things on your list:

Check Engine Light--Retrieve the codes first thing.  It will save you some times and words.
Brakes--It may be more economical to purchase a set of calipers, than to rebuild yours.  Rebuilt calipers usually come with aluminum pistons and have a lifetime warranty.
Headlights--If the motors aren't working properly, I offer a rebuild service.  $30 each plus parts.
Side, turn and hazard lights--Be sure all bulbs are good.  A bad bulb in the front side marker or either turn signal can affect their operation. 
Misc. Lights--Remove the bulb from the cigarette lighter and from inside the console, underneath the ash trays.  They are useless and only create heat that causes the console or shift surround to buckle and come apart. 

[Donster]

.......... and that's why Charlie is the man!

You need to write a book for the rest of us dummies! 

\D

[Pegasus]

All of the bulbs are extremely dim, but the issue with the hazards is that they are stuck on. I have it unplugged at the moment.

After doing the coolant, i drove it to the closest part store (Advanced) but they said they couldn't do OBDI. It got dark on the way back and I just happened to notice the only interior I could see was the speedo, and only barely.

I plan on using leds to cut down on the heat and current, red ones where I can. I pretty much have the whole look planed out for the interior and the color scheme inside and out, but I'm having some trouble deciding between a few designs.

[TopNotch]

You don't need a scan tool to see your codes. Just short the A and B pins of your ALDL connector and turn the key to ON, but not Start.
Click here for more info.
Click here for more info about a dim dash light fix.
Edit: If you want to see how red leds look in the dash, check out my yellow car at night.

[Fierofool]

Just one thing about TopNotch's link to the ALDL and retrieving codes.  The ALDL connector is used in several GM applications and is usually mounted underneath the dash in the position shown in the link.  On the Fiero, it is mounted upside down, so the A and B terminals will be on the bottom row, passenger side of the ALDL.  A small paper clip straightened then folded into a U will work well when inserted into the A and B terminals.  Be sure the ignition is in the OFF position when inserting and removing.

Donster sells some good ground cables that may also be of some benefit with the dim lights.  Have you confirmed that the thumb wheel underneath the light switch is rolled upward?  Roll it until you feel resistance.  If you roll it beyond the resistance, it will click into an Interior Lights On position and if you have your doors open at the time, you might close up the car and drain the battery.  So close your doors when you test it., 

Have you tried grabbing the round piece that surrounds the hazard light button and pulling real hard?  The tendency is to press the button to make it release, but the Fiero hazard button doesn't work that way. 

[Pegasus]

Unfortunately, I don't know how to solder.

I accidentally pushed in the flashers when I first got the car. It has a screw in place of a button and pulls out easily. I was going dis assemble the steering column, but I guess I'll just get a bigger screw.

I spent a little time with MS Paint:


I'm set on storm grey metallic, but I can't decide whether or not to do it two tone or if I should paint the wing red. The red colors I'm looking at are Bright Red or Dark Cherry (metallic), any opinions?

[Fierofool]

The hazard flasher has a 2 piece button.  The center is what you push in to activate the flashers.  The outer shell is what you pull out to disable the flashers.  Does yours not have the outer shell? 

[Pegasus]

I suppose not. It looks like a screw in a plastic tube.

[Fierofool]

If that plastic tube has a wavy lip rather than being perfectly flat, grab hold of it and pull outward very hard.  It should pop out.  This releases the hazards.  I think the center button has broken and someone inserted a screw to be able to push it in.  The outer sleeve is what turns them off.  Pull hard. 

[TopNotch]

Just one thing about TopNotch's link to the ALDL and retrieving codes.  The ALDL connector is used in several GM applications and is usually mounted underneath the dash in the position shown in the link.  On the Fiero, it is mounted upside down, so the A and B terminals will be on the bottom row, passenger side of the ALDL.

I've heard that some Fieros are upside down, and some are not. But the A and B connectors are the only two that are right next to each other. Many connector positions in the connector are empty. So just make sure that you see two copper connectors next to each other, in either the top left or bottom right corner, and those will be the ones to use.

[Pegasus]

I pulled the code for the MAT sensor. The part is on order.

In the mean time, I removed the old headliner, swapped in the 120 mph speedo and a new tach (which also isnt working), and blacked out all the hard plastic with krylon fusion. Does anyone have any product recommendations for the soft vinyl?

[TopNotch]

Does anyone have any product recommendations for the soft vinyl?

If you're talking about paint, use Duplicolor Fabric and Vinyl Paint. You can get it at most auto parts stores.

[Donster]

TopNotch is right; Duplicolor Fabric and Vinyl works great, see the formerly light grey vinyl dash pocket below:
 

 
I'm going to do the waterfall behind the seats and carpet with that paint also.
 
\D