A New Formula In Our Stall

[Raydar]

I agree with all of the above. Well put.

I agree.

[TopNotch]

I fixed the turn signals. I had to revert some "Rube Goldberg" wiring back to the original. I though I had fixed them yesterday, but today I noticed that the rear lights weren't blinking. The rear lights have a separate circuit, since they use the same lights as the brakes in a non-GT car. Turns out that the turn signal switch was bad. I took the one out of my parts car and put it in, and now the front and rear turn signal lights work. Makes me wonder if Lee was driving around with no rear turn signals. Anyhow, it sure is nice having a parts car.
Only one rear light works on the passenger side. I tried switching bulbs, and it looks like two sockets are bad.

[GTRS Fiero]

At least sockets are avaiilable.

[Fierofool]

Before cutting and splicing from the parts car, I'd check them with a meter.  Could save or even create some extra work. 

[TopNotch]

Already metered everything on both cars before making the swap. The old switch is definitely bad.
BTW, here's a simple way to check turn signal circuitry. Prepare a short length of wire with a spade connector at each end. Remove the signal flasher and replace it with the prepared wire. Now when you turn the turn signal stalk (key in run), the appropriate lights (left side or right side) should light up solidly. If any lights are not lit (and the bulbs are good), you can meter along the path from the switch to the light to locate the fault.

[GTRS Fiero]

What is the source for the current?

[TopNotch]

What is the source for the current?

I'm assuming that you have a battery in the car.

[GTRS Fiero]

Sorry.  When you remove the relay, you connect the spade ends to somewhere.  Is the power already in the circuit?

[TopNotch]

Refer to the diagram below. The jumper replaces the signal flasher as indicated by the red wire I have added to the diagram. It sends uninterrupted 12V to the  turn signal switch.

[GTRS Fiero]

Ah.  I thought there was a way to use a probe, so that the other part of the circuit could be eliminated.

I suppose, one end could be connected to a wire and the frame, and the other end to the frame and the continuity meter.  Then swap to the other wire.  Or, a 9V battery could be connected to both wires at the relay end, which should light the bulb, albeit dimly.

[TopNotch]

BTW, if you look closely at the diagram, you'll notice that in the case of the turn signal flasher, 12V is applied to pin B, and the load to pin A. But in the case of the hazard flasher, 12V is applied to pin A, and the load to pin B. This doesn't matter with stock thermal flashers, but if you change all your bulbs to LEDs, and use digital flashers, it does matter. It turns out that the hazard flasher is the one that's wrong, so you have to use short jumper wires between the flasher and the socket so that you can reverse the pins. Besides, digital flashers have 3 pins, and you have to ground the third one, so you need jumper wires anyway.
But in the case of the turn flasher, you can plug it directly in the socket, which leaves the third pin free for connecting a ground wire.

[GTRS Fiero]

Interesting.  I used 2 different electronic relays.  Only one has a ground wire--the one on the steering column, IIRC.  I have all LEDs, except the headlights and a few bulbs in the main cluster.  The original relay did not work, so I purchased the one with the ground wire.  No jumper wires were used for either relay.

[TopNotch]

I took the car on the longest test drive to date yesterday evening, and ran out of gas. I need to fix the gas gauge.
I couldn't get a tow truck to save my life, so daughter came and took me home to get a gas can, and took me back to the car. It started right up after adding gas. Upon reaching home, it was making a stuck lifter tapping sound again. And the suspension makes a few clunks and rattles while driving. Something is loose down there. More work needed.

[GTRS Fiero]

Probably has rotted bushings in the tri-links.

[Fierofool]

Pat, I have had what I thought was a lifter rattle on the old 87 engine.  First time it was a cracked front manifold.  Second time, it was an injector.