Another F23 5 spd conversion

[fiero4.3L]

Although my fiero has a 4.3L v6 using archies early chevy v8 conversion parts, this information should be useful.
My 4.3 swap uses a stock fiero flywheel (only the 1985 4.3 used the same internal balancing, two piece rear main seal, and crank flange pattern as the 1985 and older sbc, just an fyi).

Instead of waiting until it is finished to post, I've decide to post as I go.

The rear transmission mount bracket uses the stock fiero mount without modification or relocation. The bolts used to attach the bracket to the trans came out of a 4 spd muncie bracket. The angle of the mount was off a few degrees because I did not realize the mount was torn until I looked at these pics (see photo). This mount could be improved by picking up one of the lower torx bolts on the trans but I think it is adequate as-is.

I think I am limited to 4 pics per post, right?







 

[fiero4.3L]

Another couple pics of the rear mount.

[GTRS Fiero]

I'm glad you decided to post as you go.  We will be able to go through the transformation with you.

I don't know of a pic limit, but after some experimentation I decided it looked best to limit posts to 4 or fewer images, as well as put a blank line between the images.

[fiero4.3L]

The front mount bracket was easiest. The original f23 mount can be trimmed of one bolt hole, then inverted to perfectly align with the cradle.
The mount pops out easily after bending the 4 tabs inward. The mount can be reinserted with the top facing up. I added three dimples in the bracket as a witness to align the mount. One side of the bracket is radiused and the other has a sharp inside corner. The mount inserts from the radiused edge side.

After cutting off the third hole with a band saw, the third hole bolt is shortened and a 1/8" thick plate is added with a spacer to bring all the holes to the same level. Washers could be used. I thin it was about 0.43 thick and I welded it to the plate so I would not loose it next time I take it apart.






Here is a pic of the front mount bracket that bolts on so it is easy to remove, making it easier to get the trans in and out.
It picks up the existing hole on the outside of the cradle (upsized to 3/8"), picks up an existing hole I already had on top (also 3/8"), and adds two 1/4 holes on the front cross member.

You can see some of the progress on the cable adapter linkage on the shifter hanging next to it.

I will post more as I go.

[fiero4.3L]

I'm glad you decided to post as you go.  We will be able to go through the transformation with you.

I don't know of a pic limit, but after some experimentation I decided it looked best to limit posts to 4 or fewer images, as well as put a blank line between the images.

Thanks, I guess 4 is enough anyway.

[fiero4.3L]

I was going to use the original cables and got this far before really thinking about the crumbling original ends replacement cost. I'm making an entirely new setup but it was a workable first effort.



The cables I am using are morse type universals for boat steering. They are designed for runs up to 50 feet with minimal friction and a marine environment. Since I need the shortest available (which is a few inches longer than all the fiero cables at 72 inches), they are cheap. I bought mine off ebay (seastar xtreme) for about $25 each.

I suggest using the 1/4" morse 40 type cable rather than the 10-32 morse 30 type cable I am using because the shifter pins are 1/4". Generally, non-aviation, commonly available rod ends have the same shank size as the eye size. With 10-32 cables, I had to mod 10-32 rod ends to fit the shifter pins by punching out the inner ball, grinding the sides flat (since the shifter pins are so short) and fit an hdpe bushing to the id.


I've found the heavy duty 1/4" cables for about $60 each at 6 feet if anybody is interested.

I've finalized the design of the shifter adapters and should post those in the next few days. It took a lot of trial and error to design something that was stable without modifying the shifter but the result is very simple.


 

[GTRS Fiero]

Good info.

I'm curious why some of the brackets are painted orange, while some of the clearly custom/cut/welded brackets are bare metal.

[fiero4.3L]

The orange is rustoleum "heavily rusted metal" primer, not that the parts I paint with it are rusty but it is very good paint.

I take pics in process so I can use the microsoft paint program to draw what I want to do on the pic different ways before committing to actual patterns or metal. Those pics were to help me design.

Most of this custom work will go on and off the car a half dozen times before it can be considered finished and ready for paint.

Also, I prefer not to paint anything I shortly expect to weld to. For example, the bare base plate has no mount for the bellcrank yet, which is just floating there between the white plastic bushing and the cable end.

[GTRS Fiero]

Here's a post with a bunch of pics, with spaces between

[fiero4.3L]

More info on the design of the cables:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=657&v=bPjBaMYfHZA
The site:
http://www.seastarsolutions.com/products/controls-and-cables/control-cables-and-accessories/



The long piece was the first attempt using a fork mount that was too bulky and hard to fit.
The short one works but was the "prototype" and looks it where I cut the notches for the fiero cable clips and will likely be redone like the last effort which is for the select cable and slightly longer. It only required three spot welds to hold the backing ring and the flat was made by cutting a slot in the tube and flattening in a vice. The clips are specific to the cable size (morse 30 or 40) and were a couple bucks each on ebay.
The screws are #8 place holders until I find my #10-24 tap so no nuts either. The most critical part is getting the slots relative to the rings in the right position so the cable is very tight like the original cables.

[GTRS Fiero]

Nice!  I'm glad you're sharing your work and especially that you're taking the time to do this right.

I'm looking forward to seeing the final product on this, once you clean up the end of the pipe and the edge of the flat piece.

[fiero4.3L]

Thanks and yes, I intend to. The point of the close up was to show the way the flange was made from the tube. I still need to post a pic of the front mount bracket installed also but the weather has been great for my fruit trees but rough for other outdoor activities. I've been working on the clutch system also but I want to put all that together in one post after the f23 end shift linkage is done.

On the shifter adapters:
The main tube is the same size as the opening in the shifter flange, 1 inch. The rings were cut from 1-1/4 inch tube and a small piece cut out so the ends but when the ring is clamped tight around the 1 inch tube. A ring could have been made from the 1 inch tube but it would leave a gap; not critical but I wanted the adapter to fit as tightly as possible.

For clamping, I tried two-piece kart axle collar clamps but the opening in the shifter flange is not far enough off the bottom of the shifter base for the clamps to clear. Using the original clips is much better.

I still work full time and have a lot of other vehicles I need to work on (miatas, 75 postal jeep, bronco 2), so I am trying to get this done and move on but the weather is not cooperating. My fruit trees and grass love it though. As such, I don't have time to be too meticulous!

"And remember, this fix is only temporary, unless it works." Red Green 

Red Green show quotes: http://ciscohouston.com/docs/docs/quotes/green.html

[GTRS Fiero]

It's always interesting to see how people approach and overcome obstacles.

A '75 postal jeep?  I haven't seen one for a long time.  Cool!

[GTRS Fiero]

The rings were cut from 1-1/4 inch tube and a small piece cut out so the ends but when the ring is clamped tight around the 1 inch tube.

My reading comprehension isn't what it should be.  I'm lost after ”ends”.  Is there a word missing?

[Fierofool]

Are you making detailed prints of everything as you finalize each piece in the event that a piece breaks later on, or someone one else might want to do the same swap?  This is a very interesting project.  I like the way you improvise and come up with new methods.

Ashamed that you and GTXVette are so far apart.  You two really need to get together on your projects.