'86 GT Won't start, help!

[Cyb3rw0lf]

Hi everyone!

Recently picked up an '86 GT that has been sitting for 15+ years, a nice replacement for the '84 3800 swap I had 5-6 years ago. The car was not running when I got it but apparently ran fine when parked. After cleaning the fuel tank, lines, injectors, and fuel rail, plus replacing the fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator, spark plugs, plug wires, pickup coil, coil, distributor cap, and rotor I cannot get the car to start. It turns over great and I know that I'm getting spark and fuel, and that the timing is correct but the car just refuses to start. Is there some kind of quirk that the 2.8 has that I am not aware of? Any ideas or suggestions would be extremely welcome.

Thanks,
Thomas

[GTRS Fiero]

Are the plugs wet or dry?

Do you smell fuel out the exhaust?

Have you tried spraying starter fluid into the intake?

[GTRS Fiero]

I forgot to check.  Is it firing at all?

Other things to check would be the ICM, timing, and neutral safety switch.  Perhaps the TCC on an auto.

[Cyb3rw0lf]

Wet plugs

Havn't sniffed the exhaust...Yet.

Forgot to mention that the ICM has been replaced, neutral safety switch isn't an issue as its a 4 speed.

[GTRS Fiero]

OK, not the TCC, either, then.

Are you sure the timing is correct?

[GTRS Fiero]

Have you checked the ground straps, and made sure that rodents haven't gotten to the wiring?

You did plug the connector for the ICM in, right?  New ICMs are often bad.  You may want to test yours, or even try the old one.

[Fierofool]

Verify spark again by pulling the coil wire from the top of the distributor and putting a spark plug in it.  If no spark, check to be sure the carbon contact didn't fall out of the cap.  Then replace the wire and spray a couple of shots of carb or brake cleaner into the throttlebody and see if it tries to start.  Also check Inj 1 and Inj 2 fuses, but you wouldn't have wet plugs if they were blown.  Check the 4-wire harness end that plugs into the module to be sure that all the contacts are all the way up to the front of the harness.  Any of those that have been pushed back into the harness can lose contact and cause a no-start condition.

[GTRS Fiero]

Is this the Fiero you bought back in May?

[Cyb3rw0lf]

Technically I got it in June but yes.

Ground straps are a very good thought that I'll double check on tomorrow, as far as I've seen though the only thing pointing to the car becoming a habitat was a long dried out wasp nest behind one of the rotors. The car was thankfully garage kept.

[Cyb3rw0lf]

Just checked and there is no grounding strap on the car at all, guess I know what I'm picking up tomorrow.

[Fierofool]

There should be several.  One small one as an integral part of the main ground wire.  It attaches to the battery tray.  A braided ground strap from the right hinge base to the engine.  A heavy stranded wire from the left side of the chassis rail over to one of the main transmission bolts.  I think there are also one or two that go between the engine and cradle. 

[GTRS Fiero]

Just checked and there is no grounding strap on the car at all, guess I know what I'm picking up tomorrow.

Unlikely there are none.

I hope the brake calipers didn't lock up.

I'm hoping you changed the coolant and oil.

[Cyb3rw0lf]

The brakes were locked up but the calipers have been rebuilt to resolve the issue, all fluids have been flushed and changed of course.

I should have been more specific with what I state previously, the braided grounding strap typically going to the head/block is not present, I didn't notice a strap on the transmission either. The ground to the battery tray is there though as I replaced it when I replaced the rusted out tray.

[fiero4.3L]

I'd perform a compression check. Sitting that long, it is likely that rust developed in the bore and subsequent cranking may have broken a ring or piston land. With an engine that has been sitting that long, before trying to crank it, I add marvel mystery oil (air tool mineral oil) to the cylinders to sit a few days, leave the plugs out, hand turn the engine over slowly a few turns with the harnonic damper nut, going back and forth over any spot where there is resistance. I'd then spin it over with the starter to sling as much oil out of the bores as possible through the plug holes before reinstalling to prevent a hydraulic lock situation. 

Another possibility is the timing set is worn and the crank and cam are no longer synced. I don't remember if plastic or aluminum gears were ever used in the 2.8.

[f85gtron]

Start with simple diagnosis first:
Key on, don't start position, listen for fuel pump sound for two seconds and subsequent click heard from fuel pump relay next to air filter canister. If no click, check relay. If click and no fuel pump noise, check fuel pump.
Another easy check for same: spray starter fluid into intake on body panel, should start if fuel is only issue.
Please try and post results.
Ron