Home
About Us
Calendar
Fiero Documents
Merchandise
Tips
Links
Members
Message Board
Other Fiero Clubs
VIN Decoder
Speed Calculator
GFC Facebook Page
 

Author Topic: SD4 Valve Cover on a Stock Duke  (Read 19872 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

TopNotch

  • The Duke of URL
  • Global Moderator
  • *****
  • Posts: 3,984
    • View Profile
SD4 Valve Cover on a Stock Duke
« on: July 20, 2009, 12:19:40 pm »
This write-up will explain how I changed my duke from this:

to this:

Getting a Super Duty Valve cover on a stock duke takes a bit of doing -- especially if you want all sensors and emission controls in tact after the change.
The most obvious thing you can tell from the picture above is that you need to change the air cleaner. Basically, what you need to do is remove the snout, invert it, and mount on the side. My first attempt is not as good as I'd like it to be, so I think I'm going to do it again, and perhaps write that part up then.

The stock valve cover has a depression in it that the EGR valve leans into. Since I wanted my engine to still have an EGR valve after the change, I had to do two things to make it fit with the super duty cover. The first was to make an adapter plate to move the intake manifold back a little. To do this, I started with a chunk of aluminum 18" by 3" by 3/4", which I purchased from speedymetals.com:

(I had already started working on it when I took the picture.) When I was done, it looked like this:

To cut it out, I drilled holes at the corners of the large openings, then drilled a lot of little holes between, then cut with a saber saw, and then smoothed it with a rotary rasp on a drill press. I had to do a little tweaking after taking the picture, but that's basically the finished product. I used this piece between the head and intake manifold, with two intake manifold gaskets, and 50mm long bolts instead of the original ones.

When test-fitting the valve cover, I found two things in the way, indicated in this picture:

There is a temperature sensor that is too close, and a stud on top of one of the head bolts that is too high. The stud holds down a vacuum line and two ground wires. I had to cut a notch in the side of the valve cover to clear the sensor:

(You can see where my rasp slipped while I was cutting, but it doesn't show. And I cut the notch a little too deep and nicked a small hole in the cover, so I put JB Weld on the other side.)

I filed down the stud, and moved the ground wires to another position, as shown in this picture:

I screwed the sensor down a little farther than it was, because the bottom flange of it also hit the cover. And, after I filed down the stud, I used it to hold the vacuum line only.

Moving the intake manifold back alone isn't enough to allow room for the EGR valve. The way it  mounts on the manifold, it leans towards the valve cover, so I had to cut off the base of another EGR valve to make a wedge that would allow the EGR valve to sit upright. The wedge looks like this:

When the manifold is mounted with the spacer, wedge, EGR, and throttle body, it looks like this:

I have to use an after-market EGR valve only with this setup, because the stock ones sit too low, and hit the throttle body. But I have been using an after-market one anyway for a couple of years, and the car passes emissions with flying colors with it. Notice how the intake manifold shines -- I wire brushed it.

I had to cut a small nick in the bottom of the air cleaner can to allow for the vacuum nipple on the EGR valve. This cut is outside the air filter, and the only detrimental effect of it is that it allows a little warm air from the engine compartment to be pulled in.

A problem with moving the manifold back is that there is a brace between the manifold and alternator. I solved that by attaching a small piece of metal to the brace to move it's attachment to the alternator over by 3/4". The modified brace looks like this:


One other problem I had to solve with this setup is that one of the deck support springs would hit the cover if I tried to close the deck. I solved this by drilling a new hole in the spring link to move it up a bit, as in this picture:

You have to be careful working with these springs -- they're under tension. I wedged a piece of wood between the spring and deck while making the modification.

Because the air cleaner sits closer to the trunk wall after this mod, you probably should have poly dog bone bushings to keep the engine from moving too much. That's what I have, and there's no indication that my air cleaner has so much as tapped the trunk wall since doing the mod. And the spacer on the manifold seems to have no detrimental effect on performance. If anything, the engine seems to run a little better with it.
« Last Edit: July 20, 2009, 05:00:06 pm by TopNotch »
The more complex the mind, the greater the need for the simplicity of play.

Tha Driver

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 608
    • View Profile
    • Angel On Earth
Re: SD4 Valve Cover on a Stock Duke
« Reply #1 on: July 20, 2009, 04:40:45 pm »
WOW - nice work!
Folks just don't realize what it takes sometimes to do the custom fabrication to make some parts fit. Great writeup.
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

There is no problem that cannot be solved with the *right application* of high explosives.

cogcaviz24

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 392
    • View Profile
    • Facebook
Re: SD4 Valve Cover on a Stock Duke
« Reply #2 on: July 20, 2009, 08:18:02 pm »
beautiful

TopNotch

  • The Duke of URL
  • Global Moderator
  • *****
  • Posts: 3,984
    • View Profile
Re: SD4 Valve Cover on a Stock Duke
« Reply #3 on: July 28, 2009, 04:44:33 pm »
Update: I forget to explain what I did with the PCV valve and breather tube. You can see the breather tube in the "after" picture above. This picture shows how I did the PCV valve:

I may do it differently when I re-do the air cleaner (but using the same holes, of course). The holes are 1", and were done with an ordinary hole saw. The grommets are from the Help peg board in a parts store, and are just ones that looked like they would fit. They happen to be for some kind of Ford application. The only GM application grommets they had were for a thin stamped metal valve cover, and didn't have a wide enough groove for the thick cast SD4 valve cover.
Another thing I forgot to mention: The holes for screwing on the access cover of the SD4 cover weren't threaded when I got it. I had to tap them with a M6x1.0 tap, so the supplied screws would fit.
The more complex the mind, the greater the need for the simplicity of play.

TopNotch

  • The Duke of URL
  • Global Moderator
  • *****
  • Posts: 3,984
    • View Profile
Re: SD4 Valve Cover on a Stock Duke
« Reply #4 on: December 21, 2009, 11:02:47 pm »
Below is the latest incarnation of my SD4 valve cover installation. I made a new air cleaner housing. The snout is positioned a little differently to allow the PCV valve to stand upright (as I think it should), with tubing for it routed neatly over the snout. I did a better job building this one, and painted it silver.

The more complex the mind, the greater the need for the simplicity of play.

RobsFieros

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 896
    • View Profile
    • East Tennessee Fiero Club
Re: SD4 Valve Cover on a Stock Duke
« Reply #5 on: December 22, 2009, 07:14:43 am »
Wow that looks neat and clean. You need to market that setup.
Robert Finley
President-East Tennessee Fiero Club
Member- Georgia Fiero Club
RobsFieros58@comcast.net

TopNotch

  • The Duke of URL
  • Global Moderator
  • *****
  • Posts: 3,984
    • View Profile
Re: SD4 Valve Cover on a Stock Duke
« Reply #6 on: December 22, 2009, 09:42:17 am »
Well, considering the cost of SD4 valve covers (they're not cheap), the cost of the other materials, the scarcity of good clean 87-88 air cleaner cans to modify, and the labor, I'd have to charge at least $350 to make it worth my while, and I don't think too many folks would be willing to spend that much.
The more complex the mind, the greater the need for the simplicity of play.

RobsFieros

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 896
    • View Profile
    • East Tennessee Fiero Club
Re: SD4 Valve Cover on a Stock Duke
« Reply #7 on: December 22, 2009, 06:29:45 pm »
You would be surprised what people will pay to make their engine compartment look that nice. Especially some of the people on Pennocks.
Robert Finley
President-East Tennessee Fiero Club
Member- Georgia Fiero Club
RobsFieros58@comcast.net

GTRS Fiero

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 12,510
  • It is what it is.
    • View Profile
Re: SD4 Valve Cover on a Stock Duke
« Reply #8 on: January 25, 2017, 08:23:33 pm »
Does this mod make any change other than appeatance?

TopNotch

  • The Duke of URL
  • Global Moderator
  • *****
  • Posts: 3,984
    • View Profile
Re: SD4 Valve Cover on a Stock Duke
« Reply #9 on: January 25, 2017, 08:33:04 pm »
No, but this mod did.
The more complex the mind, the greater the need for the simplicity of play.

GTRS Fiero

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 12,510
  • It is what it is.
    • View Profile
Re: SD4 Valve Cover on a Stock Duke
« Reply #10 on: January 25, 2017, 08:41:58 pm »
Yellow block in the yellow/black car?

I'd seen that thread previously.  One of the nice things about this forum is the Who's Online.  I can see threads other people are viewing, but more importantly, they bring the interesting stuff up for my perusal.  Sometimes, I read through a thread, and feel like Paul Harvey was on vacation.  Since I wasn't on here when the thread was written, and didn't get to talk about it in person, I don't know what the outcome was.

GTRS Fiero

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 12,510
  • It is what it is.
    • View Profile
Re: SD4 Valve Cover on a Stock Duke
« Reply #11 on: August 18, 2018, 10:12:05 am »
I just noticed the color progression.







Yellow and black are nicer colors for the car, but the intake now matches the valve cover color, sortof.