Wiring Instructions for Aux Gauges into an 88 4 Cylinder

[Donster]

Hi,
I know it can be done, but all I can find are instructions on how to do it on an 84.  However, I know the electrical wiring on an 84 differs from the rest.
Anyone have a link or a write-up?
Much obliged,

\D

[Donster]

All good......88's are pre-wired, even the 4 cylinders.
Just need the parts now..........different thread :-D

\D

[Fierofool]

Don, I think the 86 and 87SE 4-cylinders also had the auxilliary gauges.  That may help if you broaden your search.  They were the same body styles as the V6, including the dual exhausts. 

You may have to change out some gauges in the main cluster because oil and volts are wired into that section.  Keep the 4-cylinder tach, though. 

[Raydar]

There is a 4 pin connector, clipped to the left front edge of the console skeleton or radio pod. Unclip it.
Feed the pigtail from the Aux gauge pod into the hole on top of the dash (You'll see it when you remove the pod from the "nose" of the dash.)
That pigtail plugs in to the 4 wire connector that was clipped to the left front edge.
If you are replacing the main pod with a V6 pod, the easiest way to keep everything reading correctly is to take your four cylinder tach board, and screw it onto the V6 tach. Ignore the connections for the oil pressure gauge.
If you are keeping the 4 cylinder main pod, you will need to disable the oil pressure gauge in the main pod. If both are left wired up, they will not play nicely with one another.

[Donster]

Awesome info, as always guys...........thnx.
To quote the ever so wise Duchess: "I miss those knuckleheads!"

Ditto!
\D

[Donster]

OK, finally got around to installing the aux gauges. All went well, up to the point where I wanted to disconnect the oil pressure gauge in the cluster (cable # 17/tan in the connector) and then something strange happened. I disconnected it inside the dash behind the cluster, and immediately, the gauge in the aux gauges stopped functioning, and only the gauge in the cluster under the tach now works. That doesn't make sense, does it? Before, with both connected, neither worked.
This isn't a pressing issue, as I'm getting a GT cluster in the next few weeks, but it still baffles me, why the wrong gauge now works??

\D

[Raydar]

OK, finally got around to installing the aux gauges. All went well, up to the point where I wanted to disconnect the oil pressure gauge in the cluster (cable # 17/tan in the connector) and then something strange happened. I disconnected it inside the dash behind the cluster, and immediately, the gauge in the aux gauges stopped functioning, and only the gauge in the cluster under the tach now works. That doesn't make sense, does it? Before, with both connected, neither worked.

\D

The gauge in the cluster is obviously getting its signal from some other direction. The wire you disconnected seems to be a "pass-thru" from the cluster to the other gauge (aux pod.) Follow the circuit trace on the cluster, from the pin where you removed the wire. It probably goes up to the oil pressure gauge, but it also probably will split off and go to another pin on the connector. THAT pin will likely be the feed for the oil pressure signal.

[Donster]

Thanks for that, I'll check as soon as the weather permits. :-)

\D

[Donster]

Not only have V6 cluster with AUX gauges installed and working, also have it converted to metric (KM/h).Backlit, look original. 
Will upload pics tomorrow.
For Europe, this looks great, for the rest of y'all, rather uninteresting.But for me, finally something that worked.........(except now the tach is off by about 1500 RPMs.  To install the new gauge overlays, I had to remove the needles and obviously didn't get them on in the correct position again.  Is there anyway to adjust without pulling the cluster out again?Fuel gauge is off a bit too.

[Donster]

To install the new gauge overlays, I had to remove the needles and obviously didn't get them on in the correct position again.  Is there anyway to adjust without pulling the cluster out again?

Is there an easy way to do this?

[Fierofool]

On my 86, the hands rest against the pins with ignition off.  With ignition on, the speedometer hand moves to precisely 0.  The tach hand moves about midway between the pin and 0. 

I read Ogre's comment about the thermostat hole.  I had searched for his Stant SuperStat that he so often talks about, thinking that it may be the one I've seen with the referenced hole with a pin in it.  I cannot find any listing at NAPA, AutoZone or Advance for anything by that name.  I don't doubt it exists, but I just couldn't find it. 

https://www.napaonline.com/en/search?text=stant%2Bsuperstat&referer=search_form-savedveh

[Donster]

They sell the Stant that Ogre mentions (same part number) at RockAuto. Good price and low shipping costs.
Thanks.

I'd hate to have to pull out the entire cluster again. I'm mostly afraid of messing up the needles by pushing them in one direction or the other.

[Fierofool]

I've never tried removing the speedometer or tach needles but I read in a refurbish thread that rather than prying them off, the center button on the needles should be removed.  Apparently that fascilitates removing the needles without damaging them.  You would still need to remove the cluster, disassemble it and then plug power back into it. 

[GTRS Fiero]

It takes about 15 minutes to remove the cluster.

[Fierofool]

For a young guy, maybe.