The new life of the formula fastback

[NoMad]

So I feel like a total idiot......

So for this whole time I thought the car was without power locks. So I bought an aftermarket conversion and some stock switches and handle trim so I could make it all work and look right.

So last night I was getting out of the car and accidently elbowed the block off plate.... And heard door locks actuate! So it turns out that all the paint had just been rubbed off to a smooth enough degree that it looked like block offs. The locks don't actually actuate but they try so that means I just have to clean and lube stuff so they will work. Thankfully the after market kit was only $22. And I will still add the central lock mechanism so I habe keyless entry and trunk release. So not a total waste.

So ya, that was dumb of me....

[Fierofool]

Replacement switches are available from TFS and other sources. 

Most of our Fiero power door locks require a half dozen or so pushes to make it lock or unlock.  Old grounds and lack of lubrication on the rods etc. lend to this. 

[TopNotch]

Since you already have aftermarket lock actuators, you may look into what it would take to replace the stock actuators. The aftermarket ones are MUCH better. They won't require multiple button pushes, no matter how gummed up the works are.

[NoMad]

I will be doing full door rebuilds as soon as I have all my stuff gathered so I will certainly look at them while in there. I also plan to clean and lube the whole assembly while I am in there.

[GTRS Fiero]

May as well replace the guides and dew wipes, and rebuild the window lift assembly.

[GTRS Fiero]

Are you doing an extractor scoop like some Mustangs use, or something like the Ford GT?

[NoMad]

I am installing one of ThaDriver's extractors. It is his smaller twin opening ones that don't require cutting the front trunk. I can't remember what he calls the model though.

[GTRS Fiero]

Yeah, cutting the trunk seems to be a bad idea.

[NoMad]

Well as with all things fiero...... That AC compressor removal was way harder than it should have been. Got it out and promtly had the connector for the high and low pressure switches crumble trying to remove them.... So almost $100 dollars later I have the new switches and related wiring pigtails as well as the correct r134a switch for the accumulator. Ran out of time and day light so it looks like I am driving the truck tomorrow....

[Fierofool]

When you install the new pressure switches, let us know if your cooling fan runs all the time.  If not, we'd all like to know how you wired them.  DeShoe's conversion keeps the cooling fan running full time and no solution has been found other than to disconnect the switches.

Here is a good thread by my Go-To AC guy.  http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/117640.html

[NoMad]

Will do.

[NoMad]

So idiot mark II.....

This who AC fix has been one issue after another. This morning I thought I was finishing it up by charging.... But the system wouldn't take freon. Tried some trouble shooting and thought I had it figured as the low side schrader not being depressed.... So I tried to tighten the conversion fitting and it promptly snapped off the nipple from the dehumidifier. So new one and new valve ordered.

In my frustration I grabbed under thw hood..... And rubbed clear a conversion to r134 sticker dated for 98..... But there were no conversion valves on the system. So this has all likely been a lot of money spent for nothing.

I also can't seem to verify that the compressor is turning on or not. So more fun to taclle when parts get here Tuesday.

Pissed is starting to feel like my new middle name.

[Fierofool]

I am not sure who had the car in 98.  The original builder or the owner we got it from.  I think it was probably the original owner.  Mike didn't have the car when I first met him in the first decade of this century. 

In past conversations with the original owner, he doesn't remember everything about the car due to having a bad accident.  So, I probably couldn't get any AC information for you. 

You can put a jumper wire in the cycle switch connector to get refrigerant started.  I wouldn't do it for more than 10 seconds so as not to damage the compressor.  I have usually just turned the can upside down to allow liquid to enter an empty system.  It will expand enough to pressurize and make the compressor start.  It could be that the person who did the conversion removed the adapter once they charged the system.  My recent system replacement had a bad schrader valve in the accumulator and the service guy had to swap it with the one in my old accumulator. 

Also, I would suggest that you don't use the variable orifice tube.  A few PFF folks and I have encountered problems with their function.  Mine had to be torn apart to get it out when the system wouldn't charge.  The service guy installed a standard orifice tube and it worked. 

[GTRS Fiero]

What sort of problems with the variable orifice tube?

[GTRS Fiero]

I thought the first test was to evacuate the system, and see if it held overnight.