ALL FIXED.
First, the reason for the replacement work was because I've been having a random loud pop somewhere toward the rear. I couldn't identify it to any particular action of the car or condition of the roadway. It's been doing this for years but has recently become more frequent. While changing oil, I noticed grease slung around the fenderwell, so I assumed that because it was inline with the CV boot, that the boot had ruptured, lost the grease and the joint had deteriorated.
I was talking with my brother who lives up in Homer and he said he was a little short on work so I brought him down to help do the job.
I rented a ball joint splitter and a seal driver set from O'Reilly Auto Parts and because they don't have a true seal remover for rent I had to buy one. I also purchased a GM Door Spring Removal Tool for the emergency brake spring.
Expecting possible problems, I ordered two transmission seals when I ordered my axel. It paid off as the seal driver wasn't designed for the Fiero axle seals. It exerts all it's force on the center metal portion and damages the seal. But a 1 7/8 socket is the perfect driver. It drives against the outer flange where it fits into the transmission case. Available for loan if you ever need one.
While I was into it, I decided to also replace the hub with one of the new MOOG hubs I had on the shelf. Good thing I had them because it turned out that it wasn't the axle that was bad, but it was the hub. Lots of grease had come out of the rear hub seal.
I found several variables while doing the job. The axle nut that was on the car was a 29mm swaged nut. The axle nut that came with the hub was a 29mm swaged nut. When I bought the hubs and found the 29mm nut included, I purchased a 29mm socket for when replacement time came along. I think most of us have been educated that the Fiero uses a 30mm axle nut. Well, the new axle came with a 30mm flange head Nylok axle nut, so I had to run back and rent a 30mm socket.
