Suggested Pre-Dragon Maintenance.

[Alfa Seltzer]

Anyone have any suggestions on what to check/replace before going up there? Also, what tools or spares should I carry with me?

I've flushed my brakes with over 2L of fluid, changed the oil, slapped on new tires and rotors/pads.

My TCC has been sticking, I have a new one on its way right now and am going to replace the tranny fluid/filter at the same time. I plan to perform a tune-up (plugs/dizzy cap & rotor/check timing, etc) and properly tighten the alternator belt.

[TopNotch]

Also make sure your cooling system is up to snuff. The engine can get hot screaming around those curves.
If you have an 84-87, make sure your font bearings are properly adjusted.
And stay near the other Fieros. Someone bound to have the tool you forgot.

[Fierofool]

Get those brakes done as early as possible and get a couple of hundred miles on them and the new tires before making the run.  New tires often don't perform as well as a half worn tire.  Mold release is used in the manufacture of the tires and some of that release gets into the outer surfaces of the tire causing a loss of traction until it's worn away.  The thicker tread also flexes more.  Also, driving it helps to condition and seat the brake pads and rotors to each other. 

Carry along an ignition module and a tube of radio shack heat sink grease.  These items should be standard equipment even when driving around home turf.  I have a folding tool set with 2 flat blade, and 2 phillips screwdrivers, an assortment of small torx bits and screwdriver blades, quarter inch drives, an 8 inch quarter drive extension, an 10 inch flex shaft that accepts the small hex drive bits, a ratchet screwdriver, metric sockets from 6 to 19mm, 1/2 inch drive by 3 inch extension, US sockets from 3/32 to 3/4 inch, needle nose pliers, combination wrenches from 8 to 17mm and 3/8 to 3/4 inch,
8 inch adjustable, 1/2 inch ratchet, and some small US and metric allen wrenches.  It also has 2 small drawers that hold some small band clamps, clips, heat sink grease and a couple of brake light bulbs.  It's about the size of 2 laptops stacked one on top of the other.  If it requires any more than that, it will get towed. 

Take some brake fluid, tranny fluid, coolant, a quart of oil, and you should be set. 

[Alfa Seltzer]

I keep a spare ignition module in the glovebox just in case.

I was going to throw in a bottle of water wetter as well. That stuff actually does make a noticeable difference in temperatures when you put the car under a heavy load.

[85GT]

Iam bringing my complete tool box & a timing lite, I have anything you need for tools to work on the FIERO..

[Fierofool]

A little trick to keep the engine cooler on these runs is to unplug the AC cycle switch on the receiver/dryer under the front hood.  Then if you see the temp rising, just push one of the AC buttons and make the cooling fan come on.  Because the cycle switch is disconnected, the compressor won't run and suck up horsepower. 

[Alfa Seltzer]

Great.

There was a delay on the order for my new torque converter lockup solenoid. I ordered it last friday with express shipping and it just shipped out today... from CA.

Right now I have it disconnected because it sticks for more than an hour with it hooked up. Can I hook it up for the highway drive up there and disconnect it once we get in the mountains without causing undue harm to my transmission?

[Fierofool]

You could have gotten it locally at Main Auto Parts or at any AC Delco or NAPA store. It won't hurt the transmission to have it unplugged.  As you know, when it sticks, you can't stop with it in gear without killing the engine. Ronnie Fulcher ran one of his from here to Huntsville and back with it unplugged.  A few others have driven theirs for months. 

The transmission just won't go into overdrive.  The engine will run at a higher rpm at highway speeds and your gas mileage will drop.  You won't be needing overdrive during the run, anyway.  You'll probably be running in 2 most of the time. 

[Alfa Seltzer]

Doesn't the transmission run at a higher temperature when the torque converter is not locked up? 

[Fierofool]

It may raise temps a little but lots of people have driven them for long periods of time without problems. 

[RobsFieros]

I've know people that have driven them unpluged for years. There was a GFC member that had one that didn't work and he unpluged it and drove it for a month then pluged it back up and its worked fine since.

[Formula88]

Yeah, the run is over, but one tip for any type of run or road trip:

Don't do ANY invasive maintenance just before leaving.  (other than little things like wiper blades, light bulbs, etc.)  Make sure you can get at least a couple hundred miles of shake-down driving in after any maintenance before leaving on a road trip, unless there is something you know is unsafe - like squealing brakes, etc.

And always keep a spare ignition module in any 2.8 car. 

[GMguy1987]

what kind of speeds do you guys typically run in the twisties up there. I'm thinking of coming in the spring. Only thing I have really added to my car is a rear sway bar kit and some poly bushings on the front sway bar. Just don't wanna wipe out my ride.

[Fierofool]

Some have been known to reach ~100 but that's not the norm.  Not unusual though to hit 85 on some of the straights.  That's for an individual, not the group.  I've done that on occasions when I stopped to replace the film in the camera and then had to catch up to the group.  Since the roads vary in degree of curves from one mile to the next, the speeds vary widely.  We have hit some 180's that required you to get down below 20 and others we take at 50-60. 

Best thing for tackling the curves is to make sure all your ball joints and tie rod ends are in good condition, front and rear.  Good shocks and struts.  Good set of tires and good brakes. 

If you've ever been out on the curves, you will find that adding the rear sway bar will make the car handle much differently.  Different enough that it may initially cause problems.  There have been a lot of discussions about what should be done, and it's of the general opinion that simply installing a front bar on the rear will upset the transfer of weight during performance driving, and cause a loss of control.  Moving the front bar to the rear and replacing the front bar with a larger diameter sway bar will keep the weight transfer more in line with it's stock setup, but will increase it's side to side roll resistance in the curves. 

[TopNotch]

The general rule is, add 30 to the posted speed of a given curve. For example, if the sign says you should take the curve at 20, take it at 50.