3.4 swap runs but sputters smooths out then dies smells very rich

[Fierofool]

It's the EGR solenoid that has the small plastic loop.  That's one that I've often found to be a problem, either with a crack in the plastic tubing, or in the rubber sleeve where it connects to the electric control. 

Do you have a MightyVac?  You can test the vacuum to the fuel pressure regulator by pulling a few inches of vacuum and see if it holds.  Same with the vacuum line to the EGR valve.  Some of the other lines are open at the opposite end so that test won't work. 

Are you close enough to us to make the meeting Saturday?  I'll bring a tach filter if you are.  If not, I can mail it to you.  Did you manage to get the car restarted? 

[GTRS Fiero]

There is a short tube (maybe an inch long), that likes to get a hairline crack.  This particular tube is an elbow of sorts.

[Sandman87]

I'm in Cincinnati so I don't know where the meat is. But it's likely not close to me. I just put a jumper wire where the tach filter supposed to go in the tach is now working!I but I am interested in getting the filter from you ! also found my vacuum leak ..there is a half inch tube that comes out of the lower intake manifold and goes into the back of the throttle body that I neglected to catch while reassembling everything.iy no longer idles at 2.5 k rpms . Now it will start and idle around 1200 RPMs but it will sputter as it starts and then smooths out and then die and then it is hard to start. And will continue to do the same thing sputter up until it runs smooth then die. it doesn't like slowly die down either it just quits really fast.I am getting a lot of gassy smell is coming from the exhust  as if it's running very rich I'm also getting white vapor coming out of the throttle body once it stalls out.. not sure what to check next. Maybe I have an injector stuck open?

[GTRS Fiero]

That half-inch tube should be for the IAC.  Yes, without that, high idle.

Lots of fuel, so running rich.  Injector stuck open.  Check the cold start injector first.

Does the white vapor go up, or down?

So, the intake tube is off?

[Sandman87]

Yeah I have the intake tube off at the moment. The vapor coming from a throttle body slowly rises up out of the throttle body.

[GTRS Fiero]

No white vapor from the exhaust, right?

[Sandman87]

Not that I can tell but there is a fair amount of smoke coming from the exhaust which I can only assume is unspent fuel. It does not smell like oil burning. It's more of that black gray smoke and smells heavily of gasoline

[Sandman87]

On a side note this engine has only run for a total of 2 or 3 minutes in the last year and a half so I can expect some smoke from the exhaust until I get up to operating temperature. Also obviously as I'm sure you know with a 3.4 swap it was stripped all the way down to the long block and was reassembled using assembly lube and all that. So until I get a hot enough to burn all that off it's hard to tell what the true color of the smoke coming from the exhaust is. But it appears to me to just be a very rich condition creating smoke

[GTRS Fiero]

Ok.  Is the timing set correctly?

[Sandman87]

I'll have to buy a timing light to be sure . But I assume so .I've adjusted the dizzy while it's runs to make it smooth .but it doesn't run long enough for me to set it perfect

[Fierofool]

Just some thoughts:

If a car will start and immediately die, the pump is priming but a relay is possibly bad and the engine hasn't developed enough oil pressure to run on the oil pressure switch.
If a car starts but revs up just before dieing, it's running out of fuel.  As it does, the air ratio is increasing, causing the engine to rev.  A possibility is a clogged fuel filter.  It sometimes happens to new filters if the car has sat for a long time.
A Fiero will often run rich if the Coolant Temperature Sensor located just above the water pump, has failed. 
Hard starting and black smoke could indicate a leaky injector or cold start valve.  Any other color smoke won't be fuel related.
Try inserting a jumper into the ALDL, then turn on the ignition and try to start the car.  If it won't fire or run, then the timing isn't set correctly.  You probably already know, but be sure the ignition is OFF when installing or removing the jumper. 

[Sandman87]

Okay so that raises a bit of concern about the temperature sensor as the gauge inside the car is not working neither is the fuel gauge I do have a brand-new temperature sensor I just have not put it in yet. I've started a parts list in my Amazon account I  will add a fuel filter to the list I have a timing light in there as well anything else you suggest. Also the check engine light bulb I think is blown out because I do not get a check engine light when the key is just in the accessory or run position.

[Sandman87]

How do I go about jumping the aldl I don't know anything about that

[Fierofool]

The temperature sensor for the gauge has no effect on the engine.  That's the sensor that's located on the cylinder head, near the ignition coil and tach filter.  It has a round plastic head with a slot in the side.  Many parts stores sell the Coolant Temperature Sensor with a new harness end, calling it the new design sensor.  That information is incorrect.  The temperature sensor provides information to the gauge and the temperature light.  That's all.

The other Coolant Temperature Sensor has an oval plastic head.  It's located below the thermostat housing, and screws into the end of the lower intake manifold.  It's positioned horizontally just above the water pump and timing cover.  That sensor information is read by the ECM and is used by the ECM to adjust the fuel mixture.  When they fail, they almost always fail to the cold side which would cause the ECM to increase the pulse width of the injectors resulting in a rich fuel mixture.

The ALDL is located behind the cigar lighter trim plate.  When the plate is removed you can see the ALDL in the right side.  Looking at the ALDL, you will want to jumper the two terminals on the lower passenger side of the ALDL. A paper clip straightened then bent back into a U works great.  Your check engine light will come on and start flashing when the ignition is turned on.  ALWAYS have the ignition OFF when inserting or removing the jumper to avoid possible damage to the ECM. 

To properly set the timing, the engine should be at operating temp and you'll need a timing light to adjust the timing to about 10*. 

[Sandman87]

Ok I'll try this when I get a chance to get back out there .thanks for all the help everyone .