3.4 swap runs but sputters smooths out then dies smells very rich

[Sandman87]

where does this go

running smooth after fuel filter replacement but hard to start and still just cuts off and dies

[Sandman87]

This line seems to go straight to the air filter box

[Fierofool]

That was an old crankcase breather hose that was discontinued in the fire recall.  It plugged into the valve cover, went to a metal line over to the air filter canister.  It was replaced with a metal tube that plugs into the valve cover and then into the air intake tube right in front of the throttle body.  It's that tube that you can see just below the throttle cable. 

I'd suggest removing the rubber hose down at the metal line that's fastened to the firewall so the rubber hose doesn't get onto the exhaust. 

[Sandman87]

Ok . So I just replace the bulb in the check engine light still doesn't work

[Sandman87]

So I took a video of it starting right up runs and then just cuts out if anybody wants me to send that to them and think it may be of some help let me know

[GTRS Fiero]

Ok . So I just replace the bulb in the check engine light still doesn't work

Almost seems like the ECU.  Either there is a wiring/connectivity issue, or the ECU.  If you turn the ignition key to accessory, the check engine light should illuminate.

[Sandman87]

It does not work . the plastic liner circuitry thingy that is attached to the back of the gauge cluster is peeling off  and not in very good shape so I'm wondering if I should replace the gauge cluster also the fuel gauge and temperature gauge do not work.

[Sandman87]

What's weird the other day it would run until I turned it off but I had a massive vacuum leak which I have since fixed. Fiero fool has a video of it running but it was obviously idling at 2500 RPMs. Now that I fixed the vacuum leaks it starts up fine runs for about 5 seconds and just shuts off. Then it will be hard to start for several minutes. Or I can wait a few minutes and it will start right back up idle fine then just die. Almost as if the key is being turned off..
Once again I have two videos one of it running with the vacuum leak and one of it running with the vacuum leak fixed and stalling.

[GTRS Fiero]

It does not work . the plastic liner circuitry thingy that is attached to the back of the gauge cluster is peeling off  and not in very good shape so I'm wondering if I should replace the gauge cluster also the fuel gauge and temperature gauge do not work.

If you're a paid club member, you may see about replacements.

[GTRS Fiero]

What's weird the other day it would run until I turned it off but I had a massive vacuum leak which I have since fixed. Fiero fool has a video of it running but it was obviously idling at 2500 RPMs. Now that I fixed the vacuum leaks it starts up fine runs for about 5 seconds and just shuts off. Then it will be hard to start for several minutes. Or I can wait a few minutes and it will start right back up idle fine then just die. Almost as if the key is being turned off..
Once again I have two videos one of it running with the vacuum leak and one of it running with the vacuum leak fixed and stalling.

While it's idling, open the throttle, and see what happens.

What injectors are you using?

[GTRS Fiero]

Okay so that raises a bit of concern about the temperature sensor as the gauge inside the car is not working neither is the fuel gauge I do have a brand-new temperature sensor I just have not put it in yet. I've started a parts list in my Amazon account I  will add a fuel filter to the list I have a timing light in there as well anything else you suggest. Also the check engine light bulb I think is blown out because I do not get a check engine light when the key is just in the accessory or run position.

See the October 2018 newsletter for all the sensor locations.

[scottb]

Yes, change out the cluster with a good one....... while you have it out there are a couple of wires that were put in wrong from the factory,  look up pontiacs electrical blunders. Not hard to do.

Now that you have the vacuum leak fixed have you checked fuel pressure?

[Fierofool]

I agree with Scott on the fuel pressure.  Troubleshooting says it's insufficient fuel getting to the injectors.  That's why I asked in the email if it was previously a 4-cylinder.  The pump wouldn't provide a sufficient GPM or pressure.  A manifold gasket leak can cause the same issue. 

At ignition on, no start, the pump should pressurize the system to close to 43 psi and not leak down.  At start and run, it shouldn't drop below 38-39 psi to keep it running.  If you have a MightyVac, disconnect the vacuum line from the MAP sensor.  The long one that goes underneath the intake is the fuel pressure regulator vacuum.  Pull a few inches hg and see if the regulator holds a vacuum or if you get any fuel coming out of the vacuum line.  May be a bad regulator.

For your instrument pod problem, you can get a pod and swap out the instruments from your pod so you have correct mileage and gauges.  I'm pretty sure all but the 84 pods have the same printed circuit.   

[Sandman87]

Right after I start it and it's idling if I press the gas it revs up like normal.  Injectors are Stock from the 2.8 I cleaned them before reinstalling with new o rings .

[Sandman87]

Okay I will try to find a replacement cluster unless anybody on here has one for sale. I have not tested fuel pressure but I can't hear the pump running I also get a good squirt of fuel from a Schrader valve every time I check. I know this is not a good way to test fuel pressure so I'll just pick up a fuel pressure tester here soon and test the pressure .just a quick note when the car does just cut off ,as soon as the engine dies the fuel pump primes again.