Home
About Us
Calendar
Fiero Documents
Merchandise
Tips
Links
Members
Message Board
Other Fiero Clubs
VIN Decoder
Speed Calculator
GFC Facebook Page
 

Author Topic: Clutch Fluid  (Read 15595 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

gavino

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 23
    • View Profile
Clutch Fluid
« on: February 14, 2010, 06:24:00 pm »
'87 GT 5 speed.  I found my trans hard to get in gear and my clutch master cylinder empty.   Where did the fluid go? when my dad and I bled the clutch according to the haynes manual it only made matters worse. We did make sure the bleeder was closed when we let off the pedal and that the reservoir didn't empty.  Now there is no feel to the pedal.  Any suggestions???

RobsFieros

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 896
    • View Profile
    • East Tennessee Fiero Club
Re: Clutch Fluid
« Reply #1 on: February 14, 2010, 08:06:56 pm »
Make sure the resivoir is full. Don't touch the clutch pedal, but go to the slave cylinder and grap the slave push rod with some niddle nose vise grips as far out towards the end as you can reach. Now open the bleeder and pull the rod back into the slave and then tighten the bleeder then release the rod. Do this for about 4 or 5 times the make sure the bleedere screw is tight and check the fluid. You should now have a full pedal.
Robert Finley
President-East Tennessee Fiero Club
Member- Georgia Fiero Club
RobsFieros58@comcast.net

Fierofool

  • Global Moderator
  • *****
  • Posts: 10,709
    • View Profile
    • Georgia Fiero Club
Re: Clutch Fluid
« Reply #2 on: February 14, 2010, 08:21:33 pm »
You can also use the one man gravity bleed method.  Jack the car up at the left front, just behind the wheel.  Lift it up until the front wheel is 4-5 inches off the ground.  Be sure you're not lifting by the ground effects or on the coolant tube.  Having a large bottle of brake fluid on hand, fill the reservoir.  

Go to the back and crack the bleeder screw loose just enough to let the fluid start to flow from the reservoir.  Return to the front and watch the fluid.  Keep topping it off each time it gets to the low mark on the reservoir.  After refilling it 4-6 times, when the level drops back to the Full mark, go to the rear and close the bleeder valve.  

If at any time you let the reservoir run dry and air is pulled into the line, it will take about 3 reservoirs full to flow that air to the slave bleeder.  Pumping the clutch to bleed it can break up the bubbles and make it difficult to remove all the air.  

After you have the clutch working, check underneath the dash where the clutch rod passes through the firewall and also the boot on the slave cylinder where the pushrod enters.  If there is any fluid, that's likely the place you're losing fluid.  
There are three kinds of men:

1.    The ones that learn by reading.
2.    The few who learn by observation.
3.    The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence and find out for themselves.    Will Rogers

TopNotch

  • The Duke of URL
  • Global Moderator
  • *****
  • Posts: 3,984
    • View Profile
Re: Clutch Fluid
« Reply #3 on: February 14, 2010, 10:32:07 pm »
See this thread. While you can't do the slave upgrade to your Getrag slave, you can get one with a dual seal piston from Rodney Dickman. And get or make a speed bleeder bleed valve, as described in the article. Bleeding is a snap with one.
The more complex the mind, the greater the need for the simplicity of play.