Bent pushrod in Duke

[Tha Driver]

Hooooboy. So I started tuning up my '84 & replacing the valve cover gasket, only to find a bent pushrod. The valve is stuck - I tapped it down (didn't take much) with a hammer & it stayed down. Other than pulling the head, any suggestions? Anyone have a pushrod?
TIA,
Paul
AKA Tha Driver

[The Art Doctor]

Put that piston at bottom and fill the cylinder with rope through the spark plug hole, leave end hanging out.  Hand rotate motor over so piston is up, rope is in there so you don't accidentally drop the valve in.  Remove the keeper and spring using a socket and a hammer trick and work the valve up and down with dripping in solvent, gentle heat gun if you need to.  Put spring and retainer/keepers back on using one of those tools that have two hooks and a clamp to compress spring.

[Tha Driver]

That's an interesting idea & I think a viable one. Only problem is I don't have the tool to put the valve spring back on. Actually, I don't think I have a large enough rope either (only about 1/8" thick). Only valve spring tool I have is for when the heads are off. Still trying to think this through...
Thanks,
Paul
AKA Tha Driver

[Fierofool]

If you have enough, 1/8 inch would probably work.  It's been a very long time since I've heard that suggestion.  Braided cotton rope.  Larry is old school, definitely. 

You might be able to rent the tool at one of the auto parts stores. 

[The Art Doctor]

Harbor freight has the tool for $11.  https://www.harborfreight.com/overhead-valve-spring-compressor-59343.html
Any rope will work, close line, twine, whatever just stuff enough in there and don't forget to leave it hanging out.

[Tha Driver]

Ordered, thanks!
Surely I can find something around here to stuff in the cylinder...
Paul
AKA Tha Driver

[Tha Driver]

OK so I got the Indy put back together. Thanks Charlie for telling me about Todd for a used head after I broke the original one trying to remove a valve seal. https://thefierofarm.com/
Now I can't get the radiator fan to run. Swapped relays, checked fuses, jumped the sending unit plug & just can't seem to get power to the fan. Any suggestions?
Paul
aka Tha Driver

[Fierofool]

Could be the hvac control unit in the dash or the ballast resistor.   Have you tried applying power direct to the motor?

[Tha Driver]

Hi Charlie,
I unplugged the fan & used a test light & can't get power to the fan. I was going to cut the plug off of a parts car to test the fan but the only '84 I have here is missing the plug. I did try with the AC on but no change.
So it all runs through the hivac? Guess I need to pull that & see if I can find something there...
Thanks,
Paul
aka Tha Driver

[Fierofool]

The coolant fan can run even with the HVAC turned off.  As you probably know, the fan grounds through the coolant fan switch.  I don't remember where it's located on the Duke, but I think it's in or next to the thermostat housing.  Should be a single wire sensor. 

If you're testing the circuit by using both wires at the fan, that may not work due to the ground coming through a closed sensor at high temperature.  It would have to be grounded to the chassis somewhere up front. 

[Raydar]

If you're testing the circuit by using both wires at the fan, that may not work due to the ground coming through a closed sensor at high temperature.  It would have to be grounded to the chassis somewhere up front.

84s have a two speed fan. Those may both be "hot" wires, for the two speeds (unless one of them is obviously a ground). I would check between each wire, and ground. Of course, I could be missing something, since I'm not there, looking at it.

[Tha Driver]

Well I mucked with it again today. There are three temp sensors - two on the head & one on the t-stat housing. All of them have two wires to them. Nothing I do with any of them makes the fan run. I did ground the test light & there is no power to either of the fan wires.
I did get the l. headlight to go up & down today by swapping the motor. The motor I put in (off of the parts car) had screws in the housing. I bet you rebuilt that one, didn't you Charlie?
Thanks,
Paul
aka Tha Driver

[Fierofool]

I could have rebuilt it for someone.  I did a lot of them.  The screws and nuts usually came with most of the kits.  I sometimes used nylock nuts on my screws and other times I used the star washer nuts that were supplied.

The coolant fan switch is on the front side of the engine just below the thermostat housing and points at the driver's back.  The gauge switch is next to the thermostat housing and stands straight up.  The coolant temperature switch (ECM injector control) is the one that screws into the thermostat housing. 

When using a meter or test light on the circuit at the fan motor, the fan switch circuit has to be closed or grounded at the engine in order to complete the circuit.  If your harness connection is between the ballast and motor, it may be that the ballast is bad.  I don't know if the ground runs through the hvac control or not, but probably the hot wire will. 

I found this 84 diagram on Pennocks.  Maybe it will help.
http://images.fieroforum.com/2011/84-Fiero-Electrical-Diagrams.pdf

[Tha Driver]

Got the fan working. Finally found in one of my several books that told me where the fan relay was. Pro tip - it's in the front compartment under the left headlight. Would have been nice to know that when I had the headlight assy. out...
Anyway swapped out the relay from the parts car & viola! Fan now comes on when I turn on the AC. Haven't warmed it up enough to test the temp switch but I'm not worried about that.
Thanks everyone for all the help.
Paul
aka Tha Driver

[Fierofool]

Especially for the Duke, it would be wise to get Rodney's 210° fan switch.