Support the car on jack stands and the control arm with a floor jack, remove the axle nut, ball joint pinch bolt and pop the ball joint loose. Split the tie rod end loose from the knuckle and lower the control arm away from the knuckle. I believe you can leave the caliper on the knuckle and rotor. I don't recall removing mine.You may have to unbolt the hose bracket from the fender wall
Save the washer behind the axel nut. It's not available anywhere according to some members. If your replacement axle doesn't come with a new nut, purchase one. Don't use the old nut.
Once the hub and strut assembly is pulled loose from the axle, you can often give a hard yank on the axle and get it to pop out of the transmission. Get a replacement axel seal. Better yet, get two if you're like me. I usually damage the first one.
AutoZone has the proper seal for the Getrag.
https://www.autozone.com/drivetrain/cv-axle-seal/p/gm-genuine-parts-cv-axle-shaft-seal-97029260/1253904_0_0?searchText=axle+seal I have a set of one inch drive sockets and one of them is perfect for installing the seal when used with a short extension. Works better than the seal installation tool.
If the replacement shaft has the reluctor wheel on it, use a chisel and split it to remove it.
When you bolt everything back up, torque the axle nut to 75 lb/ft then set it down on the ground with the center cap removed from your wheel. Then torque the nut to 195 lb/ft
