Installing Hardwood Flooring on Concrete-Need Advice

[Fierofool]

Does anyone out there have experience with installing hardwood flooring on a concrete slab?  I have found 5 or 6 different online procedures and a different method from each of Home Depot, Lumber Liquidators, and Floor and Decor for laying hardwood flooring on a concrete slab.  I would prefer putting it down with an adhesive as opposed to putting down an underlayment of plywood. 

[Fiero GTB]

I'm confused. I can understand your wanting to replace carpeting with a beautiful hardwood, but in which of your Fieros do you have a solid concrete slab?   

Seriously, Nancy, Suzanne, Fifi, Lili, Sharon, Amiee and I looked into having this done in our condo, and the contractor said the laminate stuff (which is very thin) can be put down with just adhesive, but if we wanted real, honest-to-goodness hardwood, then they HAD to put down the plywood in order to have something to nail into.

Problem was, it would add about a 1" thickness, which meant they would have to shave off that much from the bottom of all molding and doors. Bout outside doors are metal, which killed that idea.

Fiero GTB & Wives

[Donster]

I think the 86/87 GT models had concrete slabs as a dealer option, or the Enterra Vipre, can't remember wich

 

[TopNotch]

My stepson, who's done it, says, First you have to "float the floor" -- that is, make it level. Then you have to put in a sub-floor, and then you can attach the flooring to it. He does not recommend gluing it.

[Fierofool]

I'll be taking out the carpet in all rooms but the bedrooms so we will be bringing the level back up to the level of the carpet.  I'm planning on using 3/4" flooring.  One recommendation is to lay a polyethylene vapor barrier then put it on top of 3/4" plywood which would be 1 1/2" thick. I do have the option of 5/16 or 3/8 flooring. 

Another recommends an asphaltic mastic, 2 layers of 90 lb. roofing felt then another layer of asphaltic mastic and set the flooring on top of that.

A third and fourth says to roll on a liquid vapor barrier, then spread an adhesive and set the flooring on top.  One with and one without a plywood subfloor. 

My outside doors are metal, too, but I have thresholds that has an inside oak edge that pulls down with large stainless bolts to bring it to the level of the inside flooring.  All inside doors have a space at the bottom to allow the heating/cooling system to circulate air from all rooms, even with the doors closed.

Fifth is to put down an adhesive, then a polyethylene vapor barrier, then 1 inch firring strips at 12 inch spacing and nail the flooring to those strips. 

The flooring is on grade so there wouldn't be the problems associated with below grade installation. 

It is all the fastbacks that have the concrete floors.  That's what makes them 200 lbs heavier than the notchies. 

 

[scottb]

Hey Charlie, check your email

[meatloafsandwich]

Hey all, well here is my 2 cent: I actually laid flooring for 2 years when I lived in Florida and here is what we did; if the sub floor was already wood, we used tar paper. If not, we would float the floor as mentioned above with a latex float, then put in a " floating floor" basically the planks "snap lock " together essentially making one big piece. We never glued or nailed because in Florida, even after leveling out the moisture in the wood, the humidity would still cause it to buckle if it did not have anywhere to expand and contract to. You know what they say though... Floridas a whole other country! BTW my 87 duke feels like it is made of concrete when making a tight turn at speed!

[Fierofool]

Well, today I purchased 1000 square feet of 3/8 x 5 flooring.  The plan is to put down 1/2 inch exterior plywood.  I may put down a poly sheeting before the plywood, though I don't have any moisture problems.  I've even though about spraying the bottom side of the plywood with a termite pesticide, just in case I ever develop any cracks in the concrete floor. 

They have staples of varying lengths to facilitate differing combinations of plywood and flooring.  Scott had pointed out that if the staples/nails are too long, they'll curl back upward and sometimes come back through the flooring. 

The flooring won't be in for about a week, so in the meantime we'll be removing the carpet and tack strips and getting the floor cleaned and prepped. 

Not sure what you mean that the car feels like concrete.  Start a thread in the tech section and let's see if we can solve your problem, too. 

[meatloafsandwich]

sounds like the flooring thing is under control, just make sure that you store it in the same room that you are going to install it in so the moisture levels will even out. My problem with the handling is due to a whole lotta dry rotted bushings, I just didn't want to be left out in the whole "concrete Fiero" thing 

[Fierofool]

What do you think about the poly sheeting underneath the plywood and/or the termite treatment? 

[Donster]

My problem with the handling is due to a whole lotta dry rotted bushings, I just didn't want to be left out in the whole "concrete Fiero" thing 

Robert, my Duke can beat your Duke, because I tore out my concrete flooring and replaced it with wall-to-wall carpets! 

[meatloafsandwich]

i dont think poly sheeting would hurt, how much you need? would a 20'X100' roll cover you?
 Don, yea, but mine is all different pretty colors...inside and out!

[Donster]

mine was at one time also, see here:
http://kienlen.net/Kienlen/FIERO/subsite/Fiero2.jpg

 

[Fierofool]

i dont think poly sheeting would hurt, how much you need? would a 20'X100' roll cover you?

Yes, I think it would.  I've got approx. 1000 to cover.  One room is 15x20, one is 13x15 and there's a small foyer at the end of the hallway.  2000 sq ft is ample.  How Much?

[meatloafsandwich]

It will cost you one pat on the back, two "atta boys", and where can we meet?