The Project begins here..... Picture Heavy 56k No way

[jwrape]

Oh, also last night I unplugged the Fuel filter from the TB and turned on the ignition to see if I had gas or any operation of fuel transfer and I got zero, zilch, nada. Bone dry. So I'm glad I ordered the fuel pump.
I now figure the reason it was parked was because of the fuel pump.

"The previous owner said it was running funny and then a Shade tree mechanic worked on it and it never ran again."

Now I see why it was running funny. The fuel pump was giving out.

I actually don't know if there is gas in the tank or not cause ever since I got the engine to turn over the gas gauge has been pegged. BUT when I first got the car it red half a tank, so I figure it has half a tank.

[Fierofool]

Not only were they a heavy smoker, but a dangerous one, too.  There are burn marks underneath the seat that could have smoldered.  If parked inside a garage, it might have burned down a house.

Go through the car very thoroughly to check for rats nests.  They all seem to know about the front hood latch opening and they like to build down underneath the cowl cover.  There is a resister in the heating system that's accessible from the front compartment.  Located near the blower motor.  If there's debris in there, it could catch fire when you use the heating system.  It has a coil of wire like a hot plate element.

The phantom vacuum line attaches to the bottom of the MAP sensor.  If you need some of the hard line, I have some from which you might be able to construct a new piece.  

The plug on the decklid is for the trunk light and its switch.  That's the switch you show on the latch.  It also signals the AJAR warning light.  I believe it also has the circuit for the electric trunk release.  Rather than make 2 different harnesses, they just used the same.  The plug for the release switch is behind the blank plate on the right of the instrument cluster.

The fuel pump problem could be a bad relay.  The pump and AC relays are located on the firewall behind the driver, inside the engine compartment.  The relays are interchangeable as a test.  You should feel or hear it click when you cycle the switch.  If it is good, you may also hear the pump cycle for about 2 seconds. 

If you need a radio, I have several stock radios and also some late model Pontiac radios.

[jwrape]

Not only were they a heavy smoker, but a dangerous one, too.  There are burn marks underneath the seat that could have smoldered.  If parked inside a garage, it might have burned down a house.

Go through the car very thoroughly to check for rats nests.  They all seem to know about the front hood latch opening and they like to build down underneath the cowl cover.  There is a resister in the heating system that's accessible from the front compartment.  Located near the blower motor.  If there's debris in there, it could catch fire when you use the heating system.  It has a coil of wire like a hot plate element.

The phantom vacuum line attaches to the bottom of the MAP sensor.  If you need some of the hard line, I have some from which you might be able to construct a new piece.  

The plug on the decklid is for the trunk light and its switch.  That's the switch you show on the latch.  It also signals the AJAR warning light.  I believe it also has the circuit for the electric trunk release.  Rather than make 2 different harnesses, they just used the same.  The plug for the release switch is behind the blank plate on the right of the instrument cluster.

The fuel pump problem could be a bad relay.  The pump and AC relays are located on the firewall behind the driver, inside the engine compartment.  The relays are interchangeable as a test.  You should feel or hear it click when you cycle the switch.  If it is good, you may also hear the pump cycle for about 2 seconds.  

If you need a radio, I have several stock radios and also some late model Pontiac radios.

Wow, I love how you answer my questions so fast. :-) The Realays are clicking when the ignition is turned on but nothing happening in the tank. But I will swap them and see if that helps although I figure for the age of it, it's prolly just as well that I replace the pump before starting to drivie it.

The funny thing is I don't have a trunk light. It has a plastic block off plate where one would go. BUT I do have an extra one I can install from my dad ol' fiero he tore apart for the F355 build years ago

[Fierofool]

The fast reply was just coincidence.  I had just gotten my shower and was sitting down with my first cup of coffee.  If the relay's clicking and the pump's not running, you're probably correct that it's toast. 

Look on the left corner of the engine compartment and see if you have a couple of wires going into the trunk wall.  If you do, the light harness is there. 

You might be able to extend the harness and install the fan switch into the intake manifold.  On the left side facing the trunk wall, there are several pipe plugs.  The manifold has coolant running through it.  I believe the coolant temp switch needs to be in direct flow to effectively control fuel mixture, so I wouldn't T off the thermostat neck. 

[jwrape]

The fast reply was just coincidence.  I had just gotten my shower and was sitting down with my first cup of coffee.  If the relay's clicking and the pump's not running, you're probably correct that it's toast.  

Look on the left corner of the engine compartment and see if you have a couple of wires going into the trunk wall.  If you do, the light harness is there.  

You might be able to extend the harness and install the fan switch into the intake manifold.  On the left side facing the trunk wall, there are several pipe plugs.  The manifold has coolant running through it.  I believe the coolant temp switch needs to be in direct flow to effectively control fuel mixture, so I wouldn't T off the thermostat neck.  

Ok, that sounds like a good idea. I will look for a port to tap into. AND I will look for that wire harness lead for the trunk light, that would be nice to have

[TopNotch]

If your fuel pump is frozen, you could try to "kick" it loose by trying following. You will need to find pin G of your ALDL connector.

It's behind the cigarette lighter plate (held on with two torx screws). Yours may be inverted from the picture (A and B may be on the lower left).
Pin G goes directly to the fuel pump. It does not go anywhere else, so anything you connect to it will not harm anything else.
Try connecting 12 volts to pin G (with the other wire to pin A, Ground). Listen for the fuel pump running.
(If you are using a charger to supply the 12 volts, watch the amp meter when you make the connection. If no current is drawn, your pump is open and will have to be replaced.)
If connecting 12v does not work try reversing polarity. Use a 12v charger, and connect the negative line to pin G, and the positive line to pin A. If that kicks it loose, try normal polarity and see if it runs.
If that doesn't work try connecting 24v (two 12v chargers in series) to pin G. Do this only briefly as the wires will get warm if the pump is frozen.
If none of that works, your pump is likely shot and will have to be replaced.

[jwrape]

If your fuel pump is frozen, you could try to "kick" it loose by trying following. You will need to find pin G of your ALDL connector.

It's behind the cigarette lighter plate (held on with two torx screws). Yours may be inverted from the picture (A and B may be on the lower left).
Pin G goes directly to the fuel pump. It does not go anywhere else, so anything you connect to it will not harm anything else.
Try connecting 12 volts to pin G (with the other wire to pin A, Ground). Listen for the fuel pump running.
(If you are using a charger to supply the 12 volts, watch the amp meter when you make the connection. If no current is drawn, your pump is open and will have to be replaced.)
If connecting 12v does not work try reversing polarity. Use a 12v charger, and connect the negative line to pin G, and the positive line to pin A. If that kicks it loose, try normal polarity and see if it runs.
If that doesn't work try connecting 24v (two 12v chargers in series) to pin G. Do this only briefly as the wires will get warm if the pump is frozen.
If none of that works, your pump is likely shot and will have to be replaced.

I had forgot you could do that. I will have to give it a try. That's an easiy enough test to verify. Could actually be a fuse I suppose, if that direct power turns out to show the pump good.

[Donster]

BTW: I have a few MAP sensors, some TB parts, to include injector and various engine parts
Let me know if you come up short at the salvage yards

\D

[jwrape]

BTW: I have a few MAP sensors, some TB parts, to include injector and various engine parts
Let me know if you come up short at the salvage yards

\D

Wow! i need to just go through you garage. You have a little bit of everything. Just kidding

I will post up what I'm looking for as I go to see what you've got laying around. So far, most everything has to be new parts for now until I get it running and rolling. :-) Then i will focus on the other little items that drive me nuts in order of which bothers me the most.

I am going to grab some wheels and tires for REALLY cheap tonight, the wheels and tires it was sitting on where the steal wheels with hub caps. I just can't drive hubcaps.


So I got the wife's approval and she's driving me out to grab them in her truck.
My little car won't fit much of anything and I don't wanna get it dirty anyways.
I think the main thing I wanna find in a yard or a garage is the aero front end at the moment. Most of those sensors etc have to be new anyways.

I have so much to do for that brake upgrade just to get it back outside and pressure washed, then wet sanded and of course somewhere in there i will get it running with the other engine parts I've got coming too. It's fun, but as I go I find more things that need to be replaced. But parts are pretty cheap for the most part. And I'm loving building it into something  

[jwrape]

Oh, and thank you for all the parts availablility. It's all gonna come in handy.

That way I will get to the meets a little sooner in the Fiero instead of my other DD.

[Donster]

Most of those sensors etc have to be new anyways.
 

One MAP sensor is actually new, bought it and didn't need it, have it as a spare.
But you are correct, essentials first, cosmetics later

Stuff is here, you can also come by and browse - offer stands

\D

[jwrape]

Most of those sensors etc have to be new anyways.
 

One MAP sensor is actually new, bought it and didn't need it, have it as a spare.
But you are correct, essentials first, cosmetics later

Stuff is here, you can also come by and browse - offer stands

\D

Awesome, I certainly appreciate the offers. I will take you up on it eventually. I am looking forwar to the meets too since you guys are meeting right on my way home from work.

[jwrape]

Yesterday I found the steal of the build. I got wheels and tires for the Fiero for $300 for all four. I found them on Craiglist, way out in Winterville, past Athens, GA. They are Momo wheels. Never liked Momo's before but these are nice and they are 18x8 with a 38 offset.
I got them home and lined them up and double checked the lug pattern to be 5x100 and the bore to be 56.1.... The wheels fit perfectly.


Then after laying the felt on my pool table I went out the shop for a wrench to put on the sides and had to throw on the back wheel to see what it will look like.
The offset is ALMOST flush with the top of the fender. I'm still not sure if I want to add another 10mm spacer since the front end will be another 9mm wider after the Beretta Brake Upgrade. I will test with the generic spacers I have and if I like it I will buy a set of hubcentric spacers to run on it.

[jwrape]

Gonna need to lower the 4x4 here. Too much wheel/fender gap

[jwrape]

Ok funny thing, maybe just irronic, I'm planning on dropping the tank and changing out my Fuel Pump on Wed.. I had just made my plans when my buddy calls me and says his car won't go over 3000 rpm's and before that it wouldn't start for a few minutes and finally did.

Well I initially said it was the fuel pump, because they can be erratic when going bad. But I checked around and popped off the distributor cap and looked at the rotor. OMG! it was burned to a crisp in there, both button and cap. So I started to think that maybe it's so bad it's just not getting enough spark across the board.
So we went and got replacements. I swapped them on and it started and ran like a dream. Well, just to make sure we turned it off and on a few times. Then it quit again.
From there the only thing we could derive was the fuel pump. I crawled under the car and had a buddy turn the ignition to "on" to hear the pump. Nothing! I had him do it a few more times and finally it clicked on and you could hear it great and the car started perfectly. Wahlah, I had it figured out. I sent him up to the store for the $134 fuel pump and we swapped it out last night.

The two great things from this: Honda is genius for making the Fuel Pump accessable from inside the car. THANK YOU Honda.

Second, I got practice on replacing a fuel pump. The last one I did was when I was 17 in a 84 Trans Am. It;s been a while but it's like riding a bike.