The Project begins here..... Picture Heavy 56k No way

[jwrape]

If I went that wide, I feel I would want to go down a couple series, to 50 series to be the same over all height but wider.

The 265/50/15 is almost the same overall height (within a tenth of a inch) as a 225/60/15, but it's wider.

The 60 series is a full inch taller so it would register a little difference on the odometer.

I am glad that I can fit the 265 under there, I might give that a try.

I use the online Tire Calculator here to get as close to factory size without throwing off the odometer.
http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

[Fierofool]

The 265/50 won't fit under the Fiero on stock rims unless you do coil-overs.  Its inside sidewall will scrub. 

[Donster]

See TheDon's 85JeeTee pics. 

Yep - awesome look! 

[jwrape]

The 265/50 won't fit under the Fiero on stock rims unless you do coil-overs.  Its inside sidewall will scrub. 

Oh, so what about a 245/55/15? Prolly just barely slide by.

[Fierofool]

I haven't had any experience with over sized 50 series on a Fiero.  The Don might be able to give you some idea by comparing the clearance on the 245/60's he has on the rear of the 85.  One thing about widening the tire is that it tends to bulge the side walls on the stock wheels and that allows the tread to walk off-center during hard cornering.   

[jwrape]

Yea, you are right. I'll stick with the 225's like yours. i like the way yours look.

[jwrape]

Haven't done too much to the Sport lately. I did drive it to the gas station and back to fill up the tank with gas.  It did good. I need to fix the exhaust pipe where a clamp came loose and then weld it togehter. I don't like 4 bangers without mufflers. It has a muffler, just a loose pipe that makes it sound like a beaten cow runnin' down the road.  
But I found it runs good and rides much smoother  than my G35 Coupe, seriously. My GT is a nice ride too.

I cleaned the trunk carpet that had MANY, MANY stains on it and now looks perfect. Can't even tell there was a stain. I love that plastic carpet.

Also wet sanded the roof to start getting the car ready for paint. I found there are a couple little nicks in the roof I will have to spot puddy, but it's really just the perfectionist in me.
Just like my GT, I am picking one project on the car at a time. Right now is wet sanding and getting it ready.
It's mostly ready to drive to work, except for an alignment and a Tag (already insured).

[jwrape]

I got the headliner done yesterday. Looks pretty good for my first time.

[jwrape]

Well I got the ol' Sport back in the garage for a little more tinkering with the little things undone.
Just a couple pics to stare at. Gotta love pics

The ol' girl does have a good stance and profile to be so old. Needs a spoiler though.


Currently wet sanding the rough, dead paint.

[jwrape]

I tried to bleed off the Clutch slave cylinder last night because I have to pump it up to get it to change. I thought I would be able to bleed off the slave cylinder, but it didn't work. Still have to pump the pedal to get enough clutch to change gears. Makes it almost impossible to drive.
I tried it a few different ways and the best way I found was to pump up the pedal and hold it and then vide grip the push rod into full extention and pump it up further and bleed it over and over with the rod fully out, It would get hard but when I went to use it, it had air in it again. PAIN

[Fierofool]

Have you checked for fluid leaks at the backs of the master and slave cylinders?  If you get air from the slave right away, I'd say that's the problem.  Get the slave rebuild kit for the Toyota MR2 as described in TopNotch's article in the Tech section.

Pumping the clutch to bleed it can blend and scatter the air bubbles into the fluid.  I use a variation of the gravity bleed method.  Lifting the left front of the car to a point the wheel is about 4-6" off the ground, open and top off the master cylinder.  Leave the top off the brake fluid and the master cylinder.  Go to the rear and open the slave bleeder.  You can tap on the slave lightly to dislodge any air that may be stuck at the pushrod end.  Watch the master cylinder and refill about 3 times, each time before the fluid reaches the bottom.  After the 3rd refill, as the fluid reaches the FULL mark on the reservoir, go to the rear and close the bleeder valve. 

If you rebuild the slave, you can cap the fluid line with a vacuum cap found on the HELP rack.  Then when reattaching the rebuilt slave, you can use the gravity bleed method by just holding the slave in a vertical position to bleed the air before installation. 

This is a one-man method and requires only a jack and a wrench.  You can eliminate the jack if you have an incline where you can park the left front wheel straight uphill of the right rear, at a 45 degree angle. 

Sometimes it takes a while to get the MR2 rebuild kit.  I waited on Advance for about 3 weeks before they told me the one they had in Virginia had been sold.  I have one I can loan.  You can order one and when it comes in, repay me.  That way you'll get the Sport on the road quicker.

[jwrape]

Have you checked for fluid leaks at the backs of the master and slave cylinders?  If you get air from the slave right away, I'd say that's the problem.  Get the slave rebuild kit for the Toyota MR2 as described in TopNotch's article in the Tech section.

Pumping the clutch to bleed it can blend and scatter the air bubbles into the fluid.  I use a variation of the gravity bleed method.  Lifting the left front of the car to a point the wheel is about 4-6" off the ground, open and top off the master cylinder.  Leave the top off the brake fluid and the master cylinder.  Go to the rear and open the slave bleeder.  You can tap on the slave lightly to dislodge any air that may be stuck at the pushrod end.  Watch the master cylinder and refill about 3 times, each time before the fluid reaches the bottom.  After the 3rd refill, as the fluid reaches the FULL mark on the reservoir, go to the rear and close the bleeder valve. 

If you rebuild the slave, you can cap the fluid line with a vacuum cap found on the HELP rack.  Then when reattaching the rebuilt slave, you can use the gravity bleed method by just holding the slave in a vertical position to bleed the air before installation. 

This is a one-man method and requires only a jack and a wrench.  You can eliminate the jack if you have an incline where you can park the left front wheel straight uphill of the right rear, at a 45 degree angle. 

Sometimes it takes a while to get the MR2 rebuild kit.  I waited on Advance for about 3 weeks before they told me the one they had in Virginia had been sold.  I have one I can loan.  You can order one and when it comes in, repay me.  That way you'll get the Sport on the road quicker.

Oh, definately gonna try the gravity bleed method. Sounds  a lot better of a method to illiminate air out of the system. i need to get the old fluid out anyways.
I'll go and look at the MR2 rebuild kit in the tech section

[TopNotch]

Sometimes it takes a while to get the MR2 rebuild kit.  I waited on Advance for about 3 weeks before they told me the one they had in Virginia had been sold.  I have one I can loan.  You can order one and when it comes in, repay me.  That way you'll get the Sport on the road quicker.

You no longer have to hunt for the MR2 kit. Rodney Dickman sells a dual seal rebuilding kit with not only the dual seal piston, but also the correct spring and boot. And he has them for all Fiero slaves, not just the Isuzu slave.

[85GT]

My 85 GT had the same problem in january, turned out to be the master cylinder bleeding by internally...

[jwrape]

My 85 GT had the same problem in january, turned out to be the master cylinder bleeding by internally...

That's entirely possible in my case as well