Traded my BROKEN Zero Turn Mower for a 86GT w/ 92k miles

[jwrape]

Here are the pics of the 86' GT that I swapped for my Broken Zero Turn mower.
First the Mower:





Now the 86' GT w/ 92k miles:
This is how I got it.









Now with my other wheels on it. Makes it look ten times better. The GT wheels will go on my Sport in the garage




Here is the GT sitting with my G35 at the shop


The car has it's little issues but it's in great shape for a 86'. I drove it to work today.

Both headlight motors are shot
The Check Engine light comes on after driving for 10 minutes.
The Oil gauge pegs unless you are idling and then is jumps around
It has a small exhaust leak I haven't found yet.
AND it has a vacuum leak somewhere cause, it idles at 1400 rpm's and when idling it floats up and down.
It just needs a little loving.

Video of driving it home after trading with the guy.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6yK-SCwlaBw

[Fierofool]

Not a bad looking ride.  Sometimes you just luck up and find deals like this. 

The oil pressure sending unit is probably the culprit.  First, put a mechanical gauge on it and check pressure at operating temperature idle.  Then replace the sending unit with a new one.  Bring it up to operating temperature and check the gauge inside the car for comparison.  The units available today are very often inaccurate.  The BWD brand is the one I've had most problems with.  NAPA or AC/Delco is a little more expensive but seem to be closer to correct, right out of the box.

The "Service Engine Soon 10 Minutes After Reaching Highway Speed" syndrome is caused by a leak in the EGR circuit.  Remove the line from the EGR valve and with your fingers press up from underneath the valve, against the diaphragm.  Cap the vacuum port with your finger, ease off on the pressure on the diaphragm and see if it gradually drops down.  If so, you have a hole in the diaphragm.  Otherwise it could be a cracked line going back to the EGR, or the little looped line on the EGR solenoid.  If it turns out you need the valve or solenoid, I have a couple of good used ones. 

Exhaust leak that you can't find is often the forward manifold where the number 6 port joins the manifold runner.  Notorious for cracking there.  Simple fix is just to drop the rear cradle, remove the manifold and have someone weld it. 

The high idle problem sounds like it would be caused by a crack in the EGR tube

[Donster]

Nice Find!

\D

[jwrape]

Not a bad looking ride.  Sometimes you just luck up and find deals like this. 

The oil pressure sending unit is probably the culprit.  First, put a mechanical gauge on it and check pressure at operating temperature idle.  Then replace the sending unit with a new one.  Bring it up to operating temperature and check the gauge inside the car for comparison.  The units available today are very often inaccurate.  The BWD brand is the one I've had most problems with.  NAPA or AC/Delco is a little more expensive but seem to be closer to correct, right out of the box.

The "Service Engine Soon 10 Minutes After Reaching Highway Speed" syndrome is caused by a leak in the EGR circuit.  Remove the line from the EGR valve and with your fingers press up from underneath the valve, against the diaphragm.  Cap the vacuum port with your finger, ease off on the pressure on the diaphragm and see if it gradually drops down.  If so, you have a hole in the diaphragm.  Otherwise it could be a cracked line going back to the EGR, or the little looped line on the EGR solenoid.  If it turns out you need the valve or solenoid, I have a couple of good used ones. 

Exhaust leak that you can't find is often the forward manifold where the number 6 port joins the manifold runner.  Notorious for cracking there.  Simple fix is just to drop the rear cradle, remove the manifold and have someone weld it. 

The high idle problem sounds like it would be caused by a crack in the EGR tube

Wow, I didn't even have to troubleshoot. You had it all on the tip of your tongue.
Thanks for the insight. That will definitely give me a direction to look for the EGR issue and the exhaust leak.
That oil gauge thing is just funny to watch at idle.

[jwrape]

It drove to work great. Semi's were a lil' scary in the morning. They swerve a little.
On the way home was a different story.
It was running good until I got into traffic at Hwy 20 and 316. It jumped from 190 to 240 and started boiling real fast. I pulled into Advanced auto and let it cool down.
The fan was working but I think I might have a air pocket in the system, needs to be burped. Also the fan runs and blows ok, but I think it needs a new fan cause it just seemed a little slow. I have a 12" aftermarket fan that I have new from back when I converted my clutch fan Mustang to electric. It should pull a lot more CFM's.

[jwrape]

The EGR, I checked it and it's still working. The vacuum line was a little loose. I dabbed a small amount of super glue on the end of it and stuck it back on. Almost like a loctite. That vacuum leak is solved but the idle still foats and is still at 1400 rpms.

I was looking at the car last night and found that the Fan is not coming on when the AC is turned on. It doesn't come on at 235 either.
It did the other day but not now.

I tracked down the relay and unplugged it. I have 10-12v across all four wires. I connected the power wires together and the fan came on immediately. I'm not sure why it's not turning on by itself.

After reading about it, I'm gonna go home and check the Fan switch and then the relay. I think it's prolly the relay because the Fans not coming on with the A/C turned on which doesn't use the fan switch but it does use the relay.

I am wondering if advance auto has the relay in stock

[Fierofool]

You might check the relay on the trunk fan, too.  I'm not sure if it's in the temp switch circuit, but since it runs when the fan circuit is energized, that might be an open link in the circuit.

[jwrape]

You might check the relay on the trunk fan, too.  I'm not sure if it's in the temp switch circuit, but since it runs when the fan circuit is energized, that might be an open link in the circuit.

Is that Relay located near that fan? I have not actually even seen that fan yet. I need to get under the car and look around. I might have a second today to look around before I take the kids to putt-putt tonight.

My main goal is to get to the show tomorrow with the car. I can hot wire the fan at the moment. I just need to get a 25amp fuse to do so safely. It works with a wire but it gets warm so I figure a fuse was a better option to get me to the show. I might rob the relay off the other Sport to fix the issue, then i would have plenty of time to get another new one for the Sport. 

[Fierofool]

The fan and its relay is in the upper right corner of the trunk where the ledge is, nestled back inside the right fender.  Pull the carpet down from the top and you'll find it nestled back there.  Probably find a rats nest, too.  If you're a camper, save the rats nest.  It makes a good fire starter, or so says some Fiero owners who didn't find it. 

If you're good at running circuits, you could check the wiring diagram to see if it plays into the normal run circuit.

[jwrape]

The fan and its relay is in the upper right corner of the trunk where the ledge is, nestled back inside the right fender.  Pull the carpet down from the top and you'll find it nestled back there.  Probably find a rats nest, too.  If you're a camper, save the rats nest.  It makes a good fire starter, or so says some Fiero owners who didn't find it. 

If you're good at running circuits, you could check the wiring diagram to see if it plays into the normal run circuit.

Cool, Thanks for the info, as always. :-)
I look at it tonight and see what I find

[oldone]

jason that is one good looking fiero! is that grey? sometimes pictures on the computer will fool you when it comes to color. those are sharp wheels too. are you bringing it to the meeting?

[jwrape]

jason that is one good looking fiero! is that grey? sometimes pictures on the computer will fool you when it comes to color. those are sharp wheels too. are you bringing it to the meeting?

Yes, it's grey. 1992 Ford Ranger RC, from the receipts. Someone must of hand painted the car. It looks good from 5' away. It was originally Red and Silver. There is some paint missing where the Quarter Panels are missing. 
The wheels I got on Craigslist for the Fiero Sport in the garage. I like them a lot better on the GT.
I plan to be at the meeting tomorrow. I took off work to be there. :-)

[jwrape]

What's the best way to clean my relay connector. I remember reading something about baking soda and water or something to clean out connectors.
got any ideas?

[TopNotch]

Spray the connectors with WD-40. Spray the socket, too. Install and remove the relay a few times, then install for good.
If you don't believe me, get a toy electric  motor, connect it to a battery, and while it's running, spray the commutator with WD-40. You'll hear it nearly double in speed.

[jwrape]

Spray the connectors with WD-40. Spray the socket, too. Install and remove the relay a few times, then install for good.
If you don't believe me, get a toy electric  motor, connect it to a battery, and while it's running, spray the commutator with WD-40. You'll hear it nearly double in speed.

Worth a try. Will do.