Traded my BROKEN Zero Turn Mower for a 86GT w/ 92k miles

[jwrape]

I got my A/C compressor, lines, and brackets all installed.
Now I have to get the system vacuumed out and filled with 134a.

[jwrape]

Still not sure where to plug the small plug here to. It looks like I should have something screwed into the end of the High Pressure Relief spot in the center of the rear of the compressor, but I'm not sure.

[jwrape]

Thanks, Yea. I have the one in my hand connected to a new High Pressure Switch. But from the Haines Manual the center stud mount on the compressor is labelled as the "High Pressure Release" BUT, it is threaded for a screw and the one in my fingers looks like it should slide onto a threaded bolt. I really don't know if I just thread a headless bolt in there and slip the connector on or is there something that should thread into that base and then the connector slide on. 

[jwrape]

Well last night I drove about 5 miles up to Home Depot and bought some black spray paint. While I was driving the car surged a little but for the most part it drove pretty well.
I got back out to the car from inside HD and the car wouldn't start. It would spin over and every once and a while would spark and try to start but never quite get it.
We checked the spark and it has spark. I checked the fuel rail and it had just a little bit of gas but mostly air from the purge valve on the fuel rail.
It seems that the fuel pump isn't working.

I switched the relays around. I had an extra in the trunk that was known to be good and I switched all 3 of them around to see if it changed things, nothing.
I am almost certain it's the fuel pump.

last week it didn't want to start or would studder a little on start up. Yesterday was it's final day. Luckily I have already order the fuel pump and have it sitting waiting on me to drop the tank.
Now I just have to get the Fiero the 5 miles home to change the pump out.
I figure I would rather change the pump out and have that out of the way anyway. Since I got the car I had wondered about that pump. The car has 92k miles on it but I am certain the pump has been changed at one point cause the wiring wasn't stuck back through the firewall hole, it was strung around it, there are new clamps on all the hoses and I have a FADED receipt for a new pump without a date on it. So it's newer than the car but who knows if it has the correct tubing on it or not. The tube in the tank could be mush like my Sport was. I kinda have a feeling it is.

I called Charlie and tried to figure it out but ran out of time since I was supposed to be getting dinner groceries for my wife.
I appreciate the help Charlie, and your nephew's help too.
I'll get it home and work it out.

[Fierofool]

I can give you a tow down to my Sister's house.  You know where that is.  They're on vacation and my Brother's staying there. 

[jwrape]

Since these are both the same size pipes on this end, does it matter which way they are mounted on the back of the compressor? I had to roll the lines to fit around the oil filter. I hope it doesn't matter,
Here is a pic of the end I am talking about (not my lines)

[TopNotch]

One must go to the input of the compressor, and one must go to the output. If you mix them up, it not only won't work, it might blow up.

[Fierofool]

That part doesn't matter, but as Pat said, crimping them to the wrong input and output lines could be disastrous.  I think some of the system pressures exceed 400 psi. 

[jwrape]

So how do you know which direction they fit if they are the same size and there are no markings on the compressor or the hose. It fits the same either way. The one way, the little compression ball welded to the lines hits the oil filter so I twisted the line a little and attached it the other way. It fits the same either way, how do you tell?

[Fierofool]

Usually those have the muffler attached and the flexible lines are crimped on.  There is only one way you can put them onto the compressor when they're assembled.  But with those being cut, I suppose you could attach the muffler and crimp the hoses onto either one.  You would need to look at the Haynes Manual.  I believe it has the exploded view showing the orientation and routing.  The problem you're having with the filter might be due to having modified your mount to fit the compressor.  You're welcome to come up and look at mine to see how they route. 

[jwrape]

Usually those have the muffler attached and the flexible lines are crimped on.  There is only one way you can put them onto the compressor when they're assembled.  But with those being cut, I suppose you could attach the muffler and crimp the hoses onto either one.  You would need to look at the Haynes Manual.  I believe it has the exploded view showing the orientation and routing.  The problem you're having with the filter might be due to having modified your mount to fit the compressor.  You're welcome to come up and look at mine to see how they route. 

I actually removed the rear mount because since the compressor mount is clocked different it cause issue using the rear mount. I also thing the clocking is what is putting the filter in the way.
I might have to use a oil filter relocation kit to get it connected right. I am needing just about a 1/2" to make it fit correctly.

[jwrape]

Cleaned off the engine the other day from below.
I put the rear of the car up on ramps and sprayed it with Degreaser then pressure washed it.
Then I started her up and started to look for my exhaust leak. I am missing a bolt in the front manifold. I believe it's broke, BUT it's not leaking there.
I used my hand and followed the exhaust around and found that I have a HUGE leak on the rear manifold, the one that I CAN get to. Turns out the leak is right at the factory Clamped union. Weird location for it to be leaking. It definitely doesn't look like it's ever been taken apart there. It looks all stock. BUT I guess it has if it's leaking at the joint.

The problem is, getting the bolts loose. I have PB Blasted them, but I am SO afraid I will break the bolt.
It only needs to be re-set and tightened down again and I can get rid of that bad sound.

I will keep spraying the bolts and then try to loosen them. Fingers Crossed.

[TopNotch]

Mix up a 50/50 mixture of acetone and automatic transmission fluid. Brush this mixture liberally on the manifold bolts. This mixture is supposed to be more effective than PB Blaster.
Whatever penetrant you use, after applying, tap the bolts to encourage it to penetrate. Repeat each half-hour for a day.

[jwrape]

Mix up a 50/50 mixture of acetone and automatic transmission fluid. Brush this mixture liberally on the manifold bolts. This mixture is supposed to be more effective than PB Blaster.
Whatever penetrant you use, after applying, tap the bolts to encourage it to penetrate. Repeat each half-hour for a day.

Hmmm, that sounds good. Thanks

[jwrape]

I found out here what used to be connected to the Compressor on that single connection.
http://fierosparks.com/links/1.html
It's a High Pressure Cut out switch :switch was a normally-closed one pin device that provided a ground by contact with the compressor body to complete the the A/C clutch circuit. That switch is now obsolete, replaced by a two-pin switch similar to the V5 HPCO switch shown below. This substitution requires installation of a new connector (included with the switch). The second wire is connected to ground.


So, don't know what to do about that one.