Traded my BROKEN Zero Turn Mower for a 86GT w/ 92k miles

[jwrape]

Well I finally STOPPED my transmission leak for $7. I replace the side cover gasket last night. It wasn

[jwrape]

Well, I have started the repainting of the GT with "The Don's" assistance. Here is the Drivers side replacement fender. It turned out great with a lot of Sanding and hard work.
http://youtu.be/iKWEJu-UkAY

I am working on a hood as well but haven't gotten too far with it yet. I am trying for perfection on the hood and Deck lid, at least, due to that is where you look first when looking at the car. It takes time and patience, patience I do not have. LOL! But it will get there eventually.

[Donster]

Saw the YouTube vid, nice
Did you use the Rustoleum Black Metalic like I used? That's what it looked like.
Told you it would turn out good

\D

[jwrape]

So far so good. Hopefully I can get the reults I want overall.

[jwrape]

So I started working on re-painting my GT, with the help of "The Don" I got a couple of body parts that I needed to replace on my GT due to the PO sanding with a chain saw on the hood and the fender being cracked and mis-shaped.
Here is what I started with.

The fender only had two little chips on it to fill and a little wet sanding and it was ready to spray.





Then I have spot puddied and sanded the hood. Just starting to paint it. Trying to get it perfect.

[Tha Driver]

I hope you're not using an air dry putty on it. It will never look right if that's the case.  See my thread on the right products to use. http://gafieroclub.org/bbs/index.php?topic=469.0
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

Custom Fiberglass Parts

[jwrape]

I hope you're using an air dry putty on it. It will never look right if that's the case.  See my thread on the right products to use. http://gafieroclub.org/bbs/index.php?topic=469.0
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

Custom Fiberglass Parts

Not sure what you mean? "Air Dry Putty". Is that it's name? It is spot putty that does air dry. There is very little in it at all. Most of it was sanded off.

[jwrape]

Oh yea, I put on a almost new EGR Tube. The idle went down and it seems to run smoother BUT the Check Engine light comes on still after driving for a while. It does take a little longer than it used to but still comes on about 10 minutes into driving.

[Donster]

Have you tried disconnecting the battery to clear out all codes in the ECM?

\D

[jwrape]

Have you tried disconnecting the battery to clear out all codes in the ECM?

\D

No, I didn't. Hmm, didn't think it would re-occur since it clears every time I turn off the car but I will clear it just to make sure.

[Tha Driver]

I hope you're not using an air dry putty on it. It will never look right if that's the case.  See my thread on the right products to use. http://gafieroclub.org/bbs/index.php?topic=469.0
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

Custom Fiberglass Parts

Not sure what you mean? "Air Dry Putty". Is that it's name? It is spot putty that does air dry. There is very little in it at all. Most of it was sanded off.

(I left out the word "not". I edited both copies to add it.)
The air dry putty will shrink or swell as you paint over it. It was OK to use with lacquer primer 40 years ago, but only then in such thin scratches/areas the primer would have covered it anyway without any putty (with blocking). Check out the link I posted above for the right shtuff to use.
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

Custom Fiberglass Parts

[Fierofool]

If the check engine light comes on each time you drive it at highway speeds, it's EGR related.  Every time it comes on means a new event has occurred, not because a code was already stored.  Usually you need to get up to road speed for it to light up.  Clearing the code won't make it go away.  There are still problems with the emissions system. 

Test the EGR valve by disconnecting the vacuum line, then from underneath, press upward on the diaphragm.  Plug the vacuum port with your finger and while still touching the diaphragm, release the pressure.  If it moves downward, you have a hole in it.  That indicates a leak in the system, just like a broken tube. 

If that isn't the solution, then you have a problem with the EGR solenoid.  I have several you can test fit to see if that is the solution. 

[jwrape]

Must be the solenoid itself then. I have done the valve test and it holds well.

If the check engine light comes on each time you drive it at highway speeds, it's EGR related.  Every time it comes on means a new event has occurred, not because a code was already stored.  Usually you need to get up to road speed for it to light up.  Clearing the code won't make it go away.  There are still problems with the emissions system. 

Test the EGR valve by disconnecting the vacuum line, then from underneath, press upward on the diaphragm.  Plug the vacuum port with your finger and while still touching the diaphragm, release the pressure.  If it moves downward, you have a hole in it.  That indicates a leak in the system, just like a broken tube. 

If that isn't the solution, then you have a problem with the EGR solenoid.  I have several you can test fit to see if that is the solution.

[jwrape]

Went to paint my dash, and radio surround black and this happened.

So I went ahead and made a shifter plate out of Plexiglass


And installed the white gauge kit my wife bought me for Christmas



I have the A/C controls White face coming in the mail to complete the look...

I built this plate after my Dremel drill gave out. I want to rebuild it to look more professional but it looks pretty good now

[Donster]

Where did you get the complete white face plates for the 120 cluster, aux and HVAC?

\D