Traded my BROKEN Zero Turn Mower for a 86GT w/ 92k miles

[jwrape]

Did you leave the standard bulbs and just change out the flasher unit?  What are the benefits and effect of doing this?

I couldn't get my flasher to work correctly, especially at idle.
I had read on Pennocks in the archive folders somewhere that if you change out the Flasher with the EL12 Electronic Flasher it will flash correctly whether you have the correct resistance from the bubls or not.

A lot of folks switch out to the electronic Flasher so they can run LED lights. SInce the LED's provide less resistance, the OEM flasher won't flash correctly or at all. This corrects the problem with our OLD connection and/or grounding issues in our cars.


I recommend it for all Fiero's. Flashes perfectly with out the Breath Holding waiting on the OEM Flasher. LOL

[Fierofool]

I don't have a problem with any of my flashers, but did you also change out the bulbs for LED or did you retain the original bulbs all the way around? 

[jwrape]

I don't have a problem with any of my flashers, but did you also change out the bulbs for LED or did you retain the original bulbs all the way around?

When I first got it, I replaced all the bad bulbs with incondescent lights to see if it would flash properly. It didn't, so then I started converting my blinkers to LED's. It still flashed the same (inconsistant).

Now with the EL12, it works correctly.

[jwrape]

My OEM FLasher could have been bad before. Who knows.

[Tha Driver]

What kind of paint are you using?  You shouldn't have to sand between coats - unless you're using single stage metallic which is hard to sand & buff without screwing up the metallic.
Really you shouldn't be using single stage at all (if you are). Base/clear is not that expensive (for decent quality Dupont Nason if you're on a tight budget) & it provides UV protection to avoid fading & color breakdown.
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

Custom Fiberglass Parts

I do sand in between, but it's Rustoleum.

Awful lot of work to do to paint a car just to use cheap paint that's not going to last on it. Keep in mind if/when you decide to paint it with quality paint you'll have to strip ALL of that Rustoleum off...
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

Custom Fiberglass Parts

[jwrape]

What kind of paint are you using?  You shouldn't have to sand between coats - unless you're using single stage metallic which is hard to sand & buff without screwing up the metallic.
Really you shouldn't be using single stage at all (if you are). Base/clear is not that expensive (for decent quality Dupont Nason if you're on a tight budget) & it provides UV protection to avoid fading & color breakdown.
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

Custom Fiberglass Parts

I do sand in between, but it's Rustoleum.

Awful lot of work to do to paint a car just to use cheap paint that's not going to last on it. Keep in mind if/when you decide to paint it with quality paint you'll have to strip ALL of that Rustoleum off...
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

Custom Fiberglass Parts

That's just it, I don't want to spend $3000 on a paint job that is going on a $1500 car.

Stripping the paint isn't that hard anyways. I've done it 4 times now on the hood. LOL! Trying to get it as perfect as possible. :-)

[jwrape]

Car started idling and running just a little rough. I already had new plugs for it but hadn't put them in because I was really scared of the rear plugs being seized in the head.

So I soaked the plugs in PB blaster for 24 hrs before. I started on the plugs closest to the trunk. They seemed to be a little stuck, basically I tried loosening the plugs and had to put some effort into it and all 3 popped at first and then loosened up. No problems. The farthest plugs, closest to the firewall, were strange to me. I put the socket on and turned loosened the #6 plug. It felt like it was barely tightened. Turns out, it was barely tightened. In fact, all 3 were hand tight. Not even any effort to unscrew them. If I could get my hand down there I prolly could have loosened them by hand.

Crazy! But I got them changed and it's running smoother and a little more UMMF! when I get on it.

The old plugs were worn on the diode but were running a nice light brown color. Motor seems to be running well at 96k miles.

[Tha Driver]

That's just it, I don't want to spend $3000 on a paint job that is going on a $1500 car.

Stripping the paint isn't that hard anyways. I've done it 4 times now on the hood. LOL! Trying to get it as perfect as possible. :-)

The thing is, you're doing all the work of a $3000 paintjob (apparently more than once  ). Spend the extra $500 (if you can - I understand if you just don't have the money) & make the $1500 car worth a lot more. With Rustoleum, you're actually de-valuing the car for anyone that knows & wants to do it right.
You can get "wax & grease remover" at any autobody supply. Don't use anything else to clean it before painting.
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

Custom Fiberglass Parts

[jwrape]

That's just it, I don't want to spend $3000 on a paint job that is going on a $1500 car.

Stripping the paint isn't that hard anyways. I've done it 4 times now on the hood. LOL! Trying to get it as perfect as possible. :-)

The thing is, you're doing all the work of a $3000 paintjob (apparently more than once  ). Spend the extra $500 (if you can - I understand if you just don't have the money) & make the $1500 car worth a lot more. With Rustoleum, you're actually de-valuing the car for anyone that knows & wants to do it right.
You can get "wax & grease remover" at any autobody supply. Don't use anything else to clean it before painting.
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

Custom Fiberglass Parts

I hear you. I just don't have the money to throw at it. It's a hobby car and I have approx. $8000 medical bills every year from my brain surgery and the proceeding scans every 2 months. I am doing good to have any extra money to play with my plastic car.LOL Also the car is so easily changed. The panels are so easy to change out, if I want to put a better paint on it I can easily change out the panels for different ones and start over..  I like the work on the body and paint. I like the good feeling when it turns out the way I want it to. I like the restoration process and appreciate my work that I put into it to get it right. Little imperfections BUG me so I work on it until it's right(in my eyes). I love doing something cool with little money or little changes that make people go WOW!

My other cars I have painted the correct way. My Father in-law and mother in-law run a Classic Collision and I have my G35 parts painted there for hardly nothing. Mainly just paint costs, but this little project isn't worth the trade out to get it completely painted, especially to take the car apart and paint EVERY piece seperately so none of the previous color shows. The Body shop would charge me at least a grand and then my jambs and nukes and crannies wouldn't be painted and I would hate it for that.

My way I change the entire car color and it's done my way. It works out good for me.

[Tha Driver]

OK that's cool. Personally I'd paint the jap crap with the rustoleum & the Fiero with good paint, but that's just me. 
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

Custom Fiberglass Parts

[jwrape]

OK that's cool. Personally I'd paint the jap crap with the rustoleum & the Fiero with good paint, but that's just me. 
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

Custom Fiberglass Parts

I have my other baby that gets the good paint. It's Jap Crap but I love it.


and the two babies together

[Donster]

Hey! I know that white car! My tinted tail lights have been chauffeured around in it!

\D

[jwrape]

Hey! I know that white car! My tinted tail lights have been chauffeured around in it!

\D

LOL, yea. It gets around

[jwrape]

I moved my spoiler back to the rear edge of the Deck to hang over the rear. I like it. Looks much better.

[jwrape]

WOW! I stopped by Advance and happen to pick up a FORD Striker. They only had one so I replaced my drivers door striker with it. WOW! What a difference. It quieted down the door rattle and closes MUCH smoother.

Now just have to get another for the passenger side.

Driving to work and hitting the bumps that the car usually rattles over, the driverside was silent while the passenger side rattled like a 25 year old car.

LOVE this upgrade.

Striker


TO make the Ford Striker work correctly, you have to remove the plastic bushing seen above

Found the thread that I read to find this fix
http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Archives/Archive-000001/HTML/20090219-2-080920.html#p0